Sanding sealer- solvent or water base?

[Porkman D]

I have an an unfinished maple neck comming from Warmoth- and plan on getting more as well as some Tele bodies. So time to upgrade my finish skills. Couple questions.

*I was going to buy Minwax semi-gloss (pn 1545128), satin, and/or gloss oil base top coat laquers- which is my plan sofar. But the Minwax sanding sealer pn650173529 is water base. Am I sacrificing quality by using the water base sealer under those laquers? All of these products can be brushed on.

*I see that Sherwin Williams T67F3 Vinyl sanding sealer 24% solids (solvent base) is popular- but can I brush it on? I'm not looking for show quality finishes- just durable intruments. Am not keen on getting involved with spray setup- but may consider if absolutely necessary and makes a big difference.

*Any advice on alternative paths welcome. I have Tru Oil and am not a fan. Maybe needs primer? Just seems to keep soaking into the wood. As career mechanic, I want to be away from petroleum products.

 

[old wrench]

I've not used those particular products myself, but I was looking at the finishing products available at my local HD the other day, and if I'm not mistaken, the info on that Minwax sanding sealer said it was suitable for use under all of Minwax's finish coats.



Best Regards,
Geo.

 

[telepraise]

I would first double check with Warmoth. I believe (may be wrong about this) that their "unfinished" necks have a sealer on them. Something about voiding a warranty if they don't. Anyway, my Warmoth neck came with such a thin coat of sealer on it you wouldn't know it's there (other than being as smooth as a baby's behind). Of the sealers, vinyl is considered by some to being the most reputable in terms of adhesion. It is, however, clear and colorless and stays that way so you'll probably want to tone it with amber. I'm not sure about "oil base top coat laquers". Traditionally, oil-based products are varnishes and lacquers are spirit-based, although those terms get bounced around a bit. I'm sure someone way more knowledgeable will step up and clarify for you. As an auto mechanic, you may want to check into an auto finish supplier, especially if you're spraying, they'll have a broader selection and probably some knowledge/recommendations as well.

 

[old wrench]

Porkman,

In my earlier post I said "if I'm not mistaken, . blah, blah, " - well, I was mistaken !

The product line I was looking at was Varathane - not Minwax!

Sorry, amigo .




Best Regards,
Geo.

 

[Porkman D]

Telepraise:

Your'e right. Just called them: their unfinished necks are "dipped", "sealed and sanded". This saves a bunch of hassle. I will either spray can or brush non-water base top coats.

 

[Porkman D]

Mr. old wrench:

Yeah- I forgot to ask Warmoth if it matters what type top coat. Hopefully they have something that works with most non-water base.

 

[bullfrogblues]

There really is no need for sanding sealer on maple, it's such a close grained wood. Your first coat or two of lacquer will seal it just fine, and no need for another product.

 

[Silverface]

Am I sacrificing quality by using the water base sealer under those laquers? All of these products can be brushed on.

Are they compatible? You can read the product data sheets or call the manufacturer to find out. As fas as quality - ask the manufacturer which would be best.

I have Tru Oil and am not a fan. Maybe needs primer? Just seems to keep soaking into the wood.

Have you read the product info? That's what it is supposed to do. It may EVENTUALLY build a thin film, but on some porous woods never will. It's a penetrating oil for raw wood - its use as a film-building finish is something guitar builders starting trying several years ago. But it's really more of a Danish Oil type product. If you're expecting varnish or lacquer, check the manufacturer's website. That's not what it's designed to do.

*I see that Sherwin Williams T67F3 Vinyl sanding sealer 24% solids (solvent base) is popular- but can I brush it on?

Have you called Sherwin Williams tech support? The local store? Read the data sheet?

Sorry - not trying to be hard on you, but almost all of these questions are easily answered by reading product data or contacting the manufacturer.

 

[Porkman D]

So the neck is here and is quite nice. As Telepraise stated, it has been "sealed and sanded". It is mat sheen. According to Warmoth, this is oil based. I am going to use Bulls Eye amber shellac- then clear shellac over the decals. Or may use General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil base satin polyurethane varnish top coat with tint. Am doing test strips to determine.

I also have from Warmoth an unfinished vintage Tele body roasted alder I just received. Sofar, I am having trouble on poplar test strips in getting the pores to seal using grain fillers I've bought. Gonna start another thread on that topic.

Thanks to all.

 

[Porkman D]

Silverface:

In some cases, I found manufacturer's data to be limited. Also, manufacturer's info are going to tend to say their products work well. In fact, some do and some do not: it's great for a novice like me to be able to get feedback from people who have used the products.

Since I made the original post of this thread, I have learned a lot about finishing. Thru helpful people at Rockler and Woodcraft, and after getting the book "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner, in the past week I think I've learned as much about the types and uses of these products as I have in my hole life.