Router Table And Questions

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by irishtele, Aug 22, 2009.

  1. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    So I had a few hours spare today so I cleaned out my 'workshop' and made a router table for my new router. This one http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...0/featuresBrand=MacAllister&&ts=1248513812510

    Its fairly rough and ready but its really stable and is perfect for what I will be doing with it! Its made of 3.4" thick marine ply with a thinner piece as the router fixing plate as I could not get any metal ones. I made the hole big enough so I could take the router out to make it easier to change the bits. I made a 2" wide channel around the opening the same depth as the fixing plate to ensure everything as flat. I wont be keeping the router in the when its not in use to make sure it doesnt dow in the middle.
    Here is a couple of pics!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Questions are in the next post! :p
     
  2. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    Now On To The Questions!!

    Ok so I was using the router handheld today to cut a straight edge on a board I am using for a new guitar, Il post a new thread with the details of it! :) Anyway I was using a 3/4" piece of mdf that had a straight edge as the guide while using a pattern bit to cut another 3/4" thick piece of wood. To get the bearing to ride along the template I had to install the router bit in the router like this
    [​IMG]
    Im not sure if you can see it but it is not installed up to the K mark which is where the end of the collet should be. It worked prefect but I would rather have as much as the shaft of the bit in the collet to make sure it is safe! Here is a pic of cutting the straight edge because I dont think me explanation is very good!
    [​IMG]
    I then put the fixing plate on to the router when the bit was set up exactly the same as above and you could not even see the bearing as the picture below shows! The router was at full plunge!
    [​IMG]

    So do I need a longer shafted router bit so I can use it in the table?
    Do I ignore the K mark?? What do you guys do?
    Also do you think I should screw the fixing plate to the table top when Im routing? It seems stable enough but I would rather be safe than sorry!! :p
     
  3. RedDirt

    RedDirt Tele-Meister

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    There is nothing terrible about what you are doing now, but:

    The longer the bit is and the bigger cut you take, the more stress it puts on the shaft and the more chatter you will get out of the bit.

    If you can get a 1/2" shank bit, they are much stronger.

    It is better (and easier) to get a variety of cutter lengths in the same size than use the same bit for different uses. (1 use 4 different bits to edge form bodies, but then I also use 7 different routers to make a body).

    Bearings have a tendency to come loose and "ride up" when you are template routing. I always put spare bearings between the working bearing and the collet to keep that from happening.

    Everything is a trade off around tooling costs and setup time. Figure out what works best for you and run with it.
     
  4. fishtownmike

    fishtownmike Tele-Meister

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  5. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    If you decide to move up to a 1/2" shank router, these are superb for making bodies ... almost as good as a CNC! Cut close to the line (< 2mm), and you can do the whole 1 3/4" in one clean pass.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Most router collets will adjust down to the plastic plate mounted on the bottom of the router. Does yours? If not, then maybe you want to try another router??? Not a plunge one maybe?????? My black and decker plunge router has 3 adjustable stops, but I have to bypass them in order to go to the depth I want on a body. What's the total length of your bit?
     
  7. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I think new guitar builders would be better off if they didn't buy plunge routers. No need for one when building a Telecaster body. I've done a lot of woodworking over the years without a plunge router. I bought one for making necks but probably could have devised a method that didn't require one. However, I was in the mood to buy a new toy.

    As guitarbuilder suggests, I'd check the router to see if there's a stop you can bypass to allow more movement.
     
  8. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the replys guys!
    guitarbuilder my router collect does not go the full way to the plastic plate at the bottom, it stops about 1/4" short. Getting a new router is not an option as the I dont have the money to spend on routers. Most routers that are sold in Ireland are plunge routers. There is not the best selection, it is either a DIY router for someone using it the odd time or an industrial router such as a dewalt! I would love to be able to get a Dewalt soon but I need to start making money first!

    JWells there are not many fixed base routers in shops unless you go for a Dewalt so a plunge router was the only choice really. I got the router to move down a bit more but not enough to do an entire body with the bit I have. I was in a really good shop today who actually sold a good selectiopn of router bits not just the straight ones. I was talking to a guy there and we came to the conclusion that I would use the bit I have to do most of the edge of the body and I got a freud flush trim bit with a 1/2" collet (to make it steadier in the router) for doing the final pass. Im am going to go out now and try it out on the mdf templates to see how it works!

    The patter bit I have now is 2.5 inches total length, 1 inch cutter and 1 inch shank with bearing and holder in the middle.

    I also asked about getting a collet extension but it would have been €70, which is more than I paid for the router, whereas the new bit was €30 and it is carbide tipped so it should last a long time.

    Are there any major flaws in what I have said?? :p
    Thanks again for the help! I would be lost wiothout this forum!!
     
  9. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Are you taking the template off after the first 1/2" removed? If not, that should make up the difference I would think. Whoops, forgot you are talking router table and not routering with a template.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2009
  10. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    When you install the router in the plate that mounts in your router table, are you removing the black base plate from the router? You should.

    I often install bits with 1/2 in. of the shaft in the collet.......... never less than 1/2 in.
     
  11. fishtownmike

    fishtownmike Tele-Meister

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    I'm gonna get me a few of these. I hear they are perfect for preventing tearouts.
     
  12. fishtownmike

    fishtownmike Tele-Meister

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    Yeah i have two plung routers i barely use. I prefer my Dewalt half inch router for everything.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    Ok I think I have it now..

    guitarbuilder Yes I will remove the template after the first 1/2 inch.

    Jwells I was going to remove the base plate but it would mean that I would have to cut a bit off the 3 bolts that I am using to attach the router to the fixing plate. I used the flush trim bit to to my mdf templates earlier and it was perfect but I would not do that for a proper guitar body as I wont chance it.
    Tomorrow I will cut a bit off the bolts to make them the right length to use the router without the black plate! I shold then be able to do most of the body with the pattern bit and I will use the flush trm bit for the last piece.
    The body that I am making at the minute is two halves that will be glued together! They are both 3/4" of an inch think so together the will be 1 1/2 inch thick and I might use some marine ply in the middle. Will I route the halves to final shape before glueing together or will I do the routing after they are glued? This is a learn-o-caster and is not going to cost me anything as the wood is an old piano top and I have all the parts lying around but I still want to make it a nice guitar if I can!!
    Thanks again for all you help and valuable knowledge, I will hopefully be able to pass it on to other people when I get a bit of experience!! :)
     
  14. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    [​IMG]

    The adjustable depth stop in this photo ... is it set to allow the maximum plunge? Looks like you can get another inch there.
     
  15. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I guess I'm wondering what exactly is stopping the "plunge" before the collet reaches the base of the router. Do the springs reach full compression?
     
  16. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    It is not plunged in that photo at all. I will put of a pic when it is at full plunge later.
    There are no visible springs. There is the rubber covering that is covering metal tubes with the springs in side. I have now removed the depth stop and when I plunge it down as far as it can go there is nothing stopping it that is visible. It just wont go down anymore no matter how hard you push it!
    I will put up more pics soon!
     
  17. Mike Wingate

    Mike Wingate TDPRI Member

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    If it works, it works. Just take care. I started with a small 1/2" Bosch router and now have 2 Elu's and a DW624 in a table. Have a look at http://www.routerforums.com/
    Again an American slant on things, but some useful info, esp on jigs. I have been building instruments as a non paying hobby for the last 40 years. Enjoy.
     
  18. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    Got the Pics

    Ok so I removed the black base plate from the router. Here is a pic of it at fell plunge with my new router bit in it. You can just about see that the collet is not down to the base of the router. This is the lowest it can go!
    [​IMG]

    Here a pic of the router at full plunge attached to the fixing plate for the table...
    [​IMG]

    Here is the pattern bit installed to the router at the K mark and in the table at full plunge. Its just about the right height for the bearing to run along the neck template...
    [​IMG]

    Im not very good at explaining these things!! :oops:
     
  19. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I was looking around for pattern bits that had a cutter longer than 1 in. I found this monster from Rockler. If I'm reading the description right, the cutter is 2 in. long. I'd only seen flush trim (bearing on end) that large before.

    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11083

    ,,,,,,[​IMG]
     
  20. irishtele

    irishtele Tele-Meister

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    Thats certainly a monster bit all right!
    I might get something like that if/when I start making more bodies! I think the bits I have now should do if I go at it slow and take my time! The pattern bit I have now is not carbide tipped to I think I will have to invest in a new one soon.
    Thanks for all the help guys!
    O yeah with the body I am doing at the minute that in two halves (a back and a top) should I glue it before routing the shape or route after?
    And one more question, Does anyone know if hair felt is safe for nitro finishes? I posted a thread in the Tele discussion forum but I may as well ask here too! As far as I know it is just pressed cattle hair so it shouldt damage it right??
     
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