Route to happiness: a 5f2a, a Surfyverb and a Makita

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Paul-T, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    It's alive!

    Very gnarly, much more so than my 54 Champ. Sounds fantastic, my Jazzmaster sounds way better (more bottom) than via the Champ, too. And it's loud, loud, loud. Jensen sounds great. Really happy with this.

    No real earth hum, no more than my other amps, just the normal single coil buzz depending on how I'm sitting, no real buzz at all without a guitar plugged in.

    It's getting dark now and I'm worried about shorting out any pins (which, but these are the voltages I have so far.

    B+: 332 V DC
    B+1: 289v DC
    B+2: 243v DC

    5Y3:
    Pin 4: 290v AC
    Pin 6: 290V AC
    Pin 8: 745v AC
    Pins 2->8: 4.7v AC

    6V6:
    Pin 3: 312v DC
    Pin 4: 286v DC
    Pin 5: 5mV DC
    Pin 8: 18v DC
    Pin 2->7: v AC


    Thanks everyone, especially @King Fan for your support, @jsnwhite619 for transformer advice, and to all those who went there before me and shared their knowledge.

    I will neaten up some of the wiring and make sure there are proper mechanical joints where possible. Need to find a permanent mains cable etc. Why did I throw a bunch out recently?

    Woodwork next... which will be an even bigger learning curve.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
    King Fan and BigDaddy23 like this.
  2. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    I've been busy on what for me is the newest and hardest part: namely the woodwork.

    My dad is talented at practical stuff, so part of the rationale was to use his battered old workmate. He also gave me his old circular saw, but it's a weird fitting so for the time being I'm cutting straight edges using a jigsaw and router template bit!

    The Leigh box jig is great. I chose it because you don't need a table saw or table router, simply a half inch shank router - the Makita, which I bought specially. Took a bit of adjustment but the box joints are snug and boxes hold up on their own. Using a huge powerful router wasn't quite as stressful as I thought, although the volume of shavings it produces is a shock.

    Before I work on the amp box, I'm making the box for my Surfy combined reverb and tremolo. Chassis is out of thin aluminum, and my step hole cutter worked great.

    My most unsuccessful part was cutting out the control panel section. I tried using a Forstner bit for the rounded corners but messed up connecting them to the 'straight' lines with the jigsaw. DId a practice one but the real thing was worse. I'm going to have to figure out making a template, then I can use the router template bit which seems to work well. But I have decided to go with it as is. SurfyBox.jpg


    But I've had to stop for the time being, having hit a serious technical problem we will all recognise. It's the "where is the safe place I stowed my gxxxxmmm roundover bit?" problem. Spent half an hour looking, so now given up for the day.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2019
    King Fan likes this.
  3. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    5,615
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2013
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Somehow I once again lost track of this nice build. But now I'm really impressed. My dad, like yours, was a great woodworker. But unlike you, I inherited none of his tools -- or shop space. I'm gonna be cheering from up here in the rafters...
     
    Paul-T likes this.
  4. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    My favourite woodyard is closing down, so I took the cnance to get three lengths of 9inch timber, which they machined from 20mm down to 18mm. Then I figured I needed to get everything glued together before the timber started to cup. So I managed to snatch a half hour to glue the last one together tonight, ready for a day of rest.

    So yes, you're right, I started this thread with the reverb plus the 5f2a and there seem to be an extra two cabinets here.

    I used the Leigh box joint jig and it's great. I used it as it seemed the simplest methid for someone with little woodworking talent and only a workmate plus minimal tools. It's very easy to adjust the tightness of the box joints, so with my latest ones, you need to tap them into position, and they seem to assemble perfectly square. And their guide bush is compatible with vintage routers, like this Makita, which was £35 on eBay. It's a beast, works brilliantly.

    Because I don't have a table saw I used the router to cut the rake (is that the right term?) on each of the cabinets, which all have a 20mm setback even though it doesn't show on the iPhone. The router with a template guide bit gives me very predictable cuts, I simply pin the tamplate to the wood (double sided tape didn't seem reliable enough). Next step is to make a template for the control panel cutout. I'll probably re-do the reverb cabinet version too.
    IMG_1376.JPG IMG_1378.JPG

    I didn't take a pic of the 5f2a cabinet (it will be undersized with a TV front I hope).

    As the wood was mow or never, I though I'd assemble my Micro cabinet before and get it on the way, it's a cute little thing, about 12 x 13 inche. And did I mention I told a friend I'd make her a 5e3, the final pic? Well, makes sense doesn't it, given I seem to have accumulated a stash of valves from the nice shop I mentioned earlier .

    I've really enjoyed this diversion from a (great but taxing) new job, and I thank all the folks who shared the knowledge that got me to this point, however humble the results.

    Thanks again to everyone who contributes to this great site. Hope you all have a great Christmas and fun times with your loved ones.

    IMG_1380.JPG IMG_1381.JPG IMG_1385.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 24, 2019
    FRANKENJAG, D'tar and BigDaddy23 like this.
  5. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    I re-did the control recess on the surfyverb box, as I was dissatisfied with its straightness. This time I used a template. Making the template over long, it therefore served for the 5f2 and 5e3 recesses too . They've all tuned out nicely.

    In retrospect I chose slightly the wrong dimensons for my 5f2a TV box. I wanted a slightly undersized cabinet but shoudl have made it a tad shorter and wider. Even though it's 10cm wider than it is tall, via an optical illusion or similar it looks taller than it is square. I ordered the wood in haste, next time I'll make a cardboard mockup to look at proportions.

    TV cutout was done with circular cutters and straight edge template for the router. Let's hope the covering obscures rather than accentuates the slight kind on the right hand side! surfyand5f2a.jpg tvfront.jpg
     
    willholt92 likes this.
  6. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    So, things have been... busy... in London!

    This has all been weird as I'm in the middle of a career change. Spent a lot of time with a lot of people, kids etc, up to last Friday, then all stood down. So I've been using my time since.

    It took a lot of time. I figured out for a lot of elements, using a template plus template bit, was the way to go, and that I had to use a template for all the smaller roundovers on the panels. I'd done the TV opening semi freehand, which was a mistake as I then had to make a template for the roundover anyway. I've also made lots of mistakes using my router, but the damage was only the odd template and back panel. I still have a full complement of digits.

    Surfyverb going ok, too, just working out some glitches on the wiring.

    As I get to the finishing line on this build, all the parts are in for the next one. New thread imminent...



    allrouted1.jpg allrouted2.jpg allrouted3.jpg allrouted4.jpg allrouted5.jpg
     
    willholt92 and King Fan like this.
  7. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    Q for anyone that's watching: I have one larger radius roundover bit. I'm thinking of using it on the front top edge. This has, effectiely, a slightly smaller radius than others because of the slope.

    It would also help make the amp look wider... it's already an inch wider than it is tall but doesn't look it.

    So it might help the proportions. Or it might look a mess. What would you do?
     
  8. Bitsleftover

    Bitsleftover Tele-Meister

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    469
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2016
    Location:
    Lincolnshire UK
    Really nice looking build. I love watching the cabinet builds develop.
    Id keep it the same radius if it were me. If anything I did my front edge radius slightly smaller to compensate for the slope and the results don’t look noticeable.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
    Paul-T likes this.
  9. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    IMG_1871.JPG IMG_1872.JPG IMG_1873.JPG


    thanks @Bitsleftover ! I left the roundover as is.

    I installed the 5F2a in the cabinet for fitting. Baffle still to do. However, I wanted to make this cab as small as possible, and realise I was pessimistic about fitting as I allowed for cleats. I can reduce the height by at least two inches. So I'm planning to sell the cab on eBay and make a new one - soon as the wood yards open again! This time I'll use furniture board.

    Surfyverb all done.

    I've given this a quick try and it sounds formidable. But I fitted the tremolo pots in a different orientation and realise I've flipped connections. A couple of days ago when I was rewiring them my little soldering iron developed a short (?), ie it keeps blowing the RCD. SO I need to find a new one, or take this back to the shop, then I can wire the tremolo pots back up.

    I bought auto LEDs from Earu on Aliexpress that look pretty good (you can't see in this pic but they have the chunky feel of little regular bulbs). The control panel was from signomatic, recommended by @Magnuseklof - thanks Magnus! I did damage it slightly by trying to clean glue residue with white spirits. In the end olive oil (extra virgin from Puglia) did the trick.

    Quite a few noob faults on the tolex - should have used one sided razor blades rather than a scalpel for straighter mitre cuts, and to get neater corners. But overall happy with it as my cabinet build debut, wood was £3.50 and tolex was around £5, so close enough for rock'n'roll I think.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
    willholt92 and Magnuseklof like this.
  10. BigDaddy23

    BigDaddy23 Tele-Holic

    Age:
    46
    Posts:
    604
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2019
    Location:
    Australia
    Great job. The brass screws and cup washers look awesome.
     
    Paul-T likes this.
  11. Magnuseklof

    Magnuseklof TDPRI Member

    Age:
    54
    Posts:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2019
    Location:
    Goteborg, Sweden
    What a great job, well done mate!
     
    Paul-T likes this.
  12. willholt92

    willholt92 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    28
    Posts:
    175
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2019
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    Looks awesome mate. It's nerve racking the first build of a cab like that.
     
    Paul-T likes this.
  13. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    So... as suggested before I figured my first cab (top pic) was a little big. Made more for a 2 inch speaker. So I sold it on eBay for $50 and made a new one.

    DSCF2115.jpg wood.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2020
  14. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    template.jpg routed with handle.jpg baby cab.jpg SO I built a new one, couple of inches shorter, carefully measured this time so the 10 inch alnico just fits.

    This time I used laminated pine, which is already the right thickness. Cheaper than 18mm pine (which i had to have planed down) and much wider, so I could get a significantly deeper cabinet.

    This time I made a full template for the front hole. It turned out to be a lot quicker. Now I use small screws, countersunk, to fit template rather than pins as I did before. Works much better.

    And, um, I fitted the facia on my little cab for a planned Deluxe Micro.

    This time I also used the router to make the round holes for the baffles with a simple jig. It worked really well to make the template for this front, Valco-style speaker hole, too. I'm planning a two-tone tolex for this baby amp, with beading, but will leave it for a while.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2020
  15. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    Finally, I was worried about covering the TV cab.

    I found a reference for what panels go in what order. Plus original pix to give me an idea of overlaps.

    The most worrying part was getting matching overlaps on the front panel all around. I drew lines on the cab as a guide, for where the edges should be. THen did the measurements using masking tape, as Uncle Doug suggests, and cut the panel, same dimensions. Mistake. That worked for Tolex, but tweed is much thicker than masking tape so the tweed square came up a couple of millimetres short. I put that piece aside as it will work for the back panels.

    Cut 5mm larger all around, the tweed panel gave the right overlaps on the edges. The main challenge was make sure it would fit exactly in position - any slight angle would be so obvious, and the glue gets so tacky it would be very hard to remove and reposition. So I marked pencil lines to register it in position. These matched up with lines on the cab.

    tweed panel cut .jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2020
  16. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    476
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2018
    Location:
    London
    front tweed panel 1.jpg Finally, after applying glue to both - luckily the pencil 'registration' marks are visible through the glue - I simply lowered the amp onto the panel. It was right to within a millimetre or less.

    I'm getting a bit better at the corners, too.



    front tweed panel 2.jpg
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.