Route to happiness: a 5f2a, a Surfyverb and a Makita

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Paul-T, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Paul, catching up on this thread. Nice work. I like the way you’re figuring things out by wide reading, not just collecting an opinion or two here and there. Rob is always a solid source, and you’re clearly figuring out who else has it sussed.

    Clever way to hang the diodes below the socket lugs. Did you ask about your solder technique? Maybe a little on the dry side; you want a smooth flat blob of solder, not just capillary action around the lead. But tidy, which is good.

    Keep the descriptions and pics coming... not just for us. I find my build threads help me later if I have problems or want to make changes.


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  2. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    Good advice on the solder, thanks, I will be more generous in future. the stinginess probably reflects the long drive to pick up more solder, as I'm running out.

    I am learning everything here. The electronics I'm supposed to know about (studied it a long time ago) but have forgotten if I ever knew. It's the hardware side that is the big learning area - as I will doubtless show when I start attempting to use the router for box joints.

    Using a drill press is the big new area for me. I am learning to drill and hit exactly the right location, which is no doddle - the drill wiggles in the holder and it doesn't have a lock switch for on, so I need to improvise a wooden chuck for the trigger to avoid needing three hands. Managed to get clean-ish holes and deburr semi-competently.

    The cheapo Chinese chassis seems to take drilling fine with no flaking of chrome.

    I know I can't avoid having one OT bolt under the circuit board. But am I allowed to have the bolt inside and nut outside? I see the Prof's built he has much shorter bolts, I don't have any short one and worry about damaging the thread if I attempt to cut them shorter, if I could even think of a better way than hammer and cold chisel.

    (For future builders, if you're using a 5F1 board in a 5F2 chassis like me, you could avoid this by placing the board far right, opposite end to the PT, which was where I had it at one point, but moved towards the middle for shorter cable runs. Now of course I would have to rewire all the connections and rework the chassis holes, so I think I'll live with it as others have before).

    The bolt shown from inside is 10mm from my mounting hole for the board. OT transformer hole.jpg OT in position .jpg interior bolt.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
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  3. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    I simply hacksawed the bolt down and it all threads ok.

    Now, oops and double oops. Why did I not notice there was a reason why folks didn't solder the valve bases on the card template?

    Hopefully my embarrassment will be someone else's education. As I start to desolder, I'll leave this here for my mortification - and to remind me which connection is which, for soldering the bases in situ.

    (and for anyone as ignorant as me... the valve bases mount from outside the amp, not inside ). Valve bases soldered. TOo soon. .jpg
     
  4. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    ahem. Valve bases soldered properly now. Although annoying, my mistake of soldering them in the cardboard guide meant they were orientated in the correct direction which probably made it easier to solder in the chassis.
     

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  5. Paul-T

    Paul-T Tele-Meister

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    Input sockets and valve bases all in.

    (black cable in first photo isn't connected, it's for my power amp ground)

    inside 2 all in .jpg input sockets .jpg
     
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