Like many brothers and sisters here, I am going through a period of simplifying and editing in my life… which involves more acquisition! I've cut down my guitars to 4, soon to be 3 I think, and a few years back sold my bigger amps, including a Bandmaster reverb. Now I've sold tons more stuff to get my 63 Jazzmaster sorted, and it sounds great. But I want something a little bigger than my 54 Champ for the living room, and followed the sage advice of the classic gateway drug, a 5F2a. I've built fuzz boxes and other stuff before, but a key challenge for me is, without a dedicated workshop, to build a cabinet, for the Princeton - and also for a Surfy trem and reverb, which I will add to this thread. I hope to do so with the most basic of gear, namely a black and decker workbench, circular saw - and a Makita 1/2 router, picked up for a pittance, but which crucially fits with the cheapest and most foolproof box router jig I could find, the Leigh. References: I've followed through The Professor's build thread, in which he seems to ask every one of the important questions (and get good answers). As this is one of Hackworth's kit's I found this thread handy too. I've read through many threads on valves, er tubes, and acquired most of what I need, some NOS from a magnificent crazy shop in Lincoln which sells old aircraft bits, though I still need my rectifier. The downside of this shop is that somehow I picked up lots of resistors, vavle bases and other stuff for a Micro Deluxe. Oh dear. I've taken Rob's grounding scheme as my bible. I've looked at all the various PT and OT options. In particular, I've subscribed to jsnwhite's comments on using a 275-0-275 PT. I'm not looking for clarity and headroom. Hence I'll be using the Hammond 290CAX, with tapes at those voltages. I've followed a reasonably similar approach re OT, and jsnwhite has been very helpful there too. I'm using Classictone. Most people here will know they offer a basic small 4W Champ, the same with an 8 ohn tap, the upgraded 10-15W version, and an old-skool version which is perhaps even more gnarly and low powered. I went for the basic on the basis that, that's what boothill had in stock! I used the kit from Hackworth and I'm glad I did, it saved me lots of time and got me going mroe quickly. his kits are pitched exactly where I want to be, a couple of notches up from Weber etc, with decent but not boutique caps, mostly carbon film resistors but etc. Chassis Choice for chassis in Europe seems limited. We have Modulus https://modulusamplification.com/Tweed-Princeton-5F2a-Style-Chassis-P5692694.aspx Tube-town only seems to do a 5f1 https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/C.../TT-Chassis-Fender-Style-5F1-Champ::4851.html and Tube AMp Doctor https://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/shop_Amp_Parts_AMP_Chassis/Amp_Chassis_Tweed_Princeton_5F2_2167 Totterer helped turn me on to Amp Mart http://www.ampmart.com/en/productview.asp?sid=1069 (they also list on line as Mable Audio, but are the same company)> They were responsivle and helpful. If you simply buy online, they charge $35 postage, but if you enquire first, it's only $18. They are also helpful with customs declarations to avoid the dreaded courier broker fees. Progress so far I've acquired various router bits, s/h drill holder, and have populated the board. I used a croc clip as a heat sink and soldered my capactiros quickly using the low power iron. The main problem for me was what to solder in what order, to avoid softening previous joints, and to leave space on the turrets for remaining wires. I think i'm ok. I used Hackworth's idea of a cardboard template to locate wires and make sure everything fits. Questions? There will be plenty more to come, but if you veteran 5F2a builders can cast an eye on the board for obvious errors, it would be appreciated. I've measured the resistance of every resistor before soldering, and this afternoon re-checked and every joint and value seems good.I followed Rob's colour scheme where I could to make it easier to check. Only the main caps aren't soldered in yet as I wanted to make sure I had access to the chassis mount screws etc. also, I wasnt certain where the board would mount, as this is essentially Hackworth's 5F1 and my chassis holes are not quite identical. This position, nestled right under the volume, looks similar to what I've seen. Correct? And finally, I assume the "power amp ground" on Rob's ground screen, is a bolt/tag strip fastened to the chassis, correct?