I'm nearing the end of a partscaster Strat that has vintage frets and a 7.25 neck radius and that means cutting a nut. I've done maybe 3 nuts in the past and none were really "wow" although one worked well enough, I guess. I'd really like to nail this one and so I think the key to a successful outcome is to be conservative about it and remove the most unreliable factor from the equation, namely, me. I want to unpack the process I plan to use so that people with more experience can critique it and maybe offer some helpful advice to someone who is making his own nut from a bone blank. I'm not buying a pre-cut nut and I am not taking this to a luthier. I want to do it myself. Please let that guide your advice. So first off I'll take a nut blank and cut it to approximately the length it needs to be with some overhang. Then I'll make sure the nut is reasonably square using a square and some sandpaper adhered to a thick piece of glass. I'll use that same piece of glass to reduce the thickness of the bone blank so that it fits in the nut slot. I'll use the radius of the fingerboard to sand the bone blank to the radius of the nut slot (This is an Allparts neck and the nut radius measures the same as the neck radius) so I get a nice tight fit. Then I'll use a straight edge and feeler gauges to determine the height of the first fret. Write that down. I'll add 0.10 to the measurement at the high E string. That is approximately the bottom of the nut slot for the high E string. Add 0.02 to the measurement for each subsequent string. That is the bottom of the nut slot for each string. Write those measurements down. I add half the diameter of the low E string, A string, D and G string. Write those down. In my case I'm using Ernie Ball .10s so they go from 0.10-.46. That becomes approximately the top of the bone nut. The high E and B string will be completely inside the bone nut so I'll just use their actual diameter measurement. With this information, I can strike a line across what should become the top of the nut. I'd saw and sand the nut to just above that particular line. The nut will not be shaped as a perfect 7.25 arc, but will bulge more on the low end of the nut to accommodate thicker strings. Once that's roughed out, I would string it up, locate the high and low E strings approximately 1/16 from the top edge of the fret (frets are tapered, so I won't measure from the edge of the neck). Mark those locations. Using a string space ruler, I'll mark out the rest of the strings from low to high. Using a 0.10 kerf saw I'll start the nut slots. Once I've got a good clean cut with a reasonable depth to lock the file into the slot without any side chatter, I'll start working on each string with a nut file. I'll review my measurements for each string and stack the appropriate feeler gauges to create a safe slot, and generally file the slots out in a back and down manner to compensate for the fallaway of the string angle on a Fender headstock. The goal is so there's material to support the downward pressure on the string but that the takeoff point is right at the leading edge of the nut. When I hit the feeler gauges I've arrived at my approximate depth. Rounding out the bottom and opening up the back to give a nice break angle for the string (There's not a lot of side break on Fender necks but there is some). This ought to get me in the ballpark to start the setup. I can always take away more material from the nut to lower the strings, but I don't want to take too much. This is mostly the StewMac process only without the expensive feeler gauge holder. The most dangerous element in this operation is me and so I've tried to take myself out of it to the extent that I could. And again, I am just roughing out the nut at this point. Anyone see any fatal flaws here?