Rotary on off switch

Gaz_

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Morning all.
I'm trying to do something stupid to my 12 string telecaster again. Here's a pic

IMG_20210527_161403.jpg

This time I'm going for onboard compression. I've picked the board I'm going to make (squishy octopus) and I'm just working out how to fit it and control it.

Currently, I'm thinking of have the controls as littlr trimmer pots under the pickguard, so I can set it and then leave it (once I find the sound I don't adjust my cs3 for example). So then I just need an on/off.

I think the idea of having a rotary switch as the on off, mounted on thelower horn, repicating the electric 12s looks.
1965-fender-electric-xii-firemist-gold-6-1.jpg
Obviously, this was a pickup selector. So, my question is, is it possible to get a simple on/off rotary switch that works like a stomp switch on a pedal? Or is it possible to wire something like these as for true bypass? s-l400.jpg
If not, I could always use a 500k push pull in the position and have the "level" setting adjustable, I just worry about it getting moved around. Or I suppose I could put a push pull in the position, but not wire anything to the pot.

Cheers for any help.
Gaz
 

somebodyelseuk

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There's the Gibson Varitone switch from the ES355.
Think 'outside the box' a little, try whatever your local equivalent to 'Maplins' is (Radioshack?). Over the years, there have been amps and radios/hifi equipment that have used the kind of switch you want. Another avenue to explore is automotive spares stores. Again, many cars have used that kind of switch, especially prior to the 80s.

If I were doing it, I'd probably use a Fender Jaguar/Jazzmaster slider switch.
 

Larry F

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I wonder whether a relatively visible switch would remind you that your battery is on.
 

Gaz_

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There's the Gibson Varitone switch from the ES355.
Think 'outside the box' a little, try whatever your local equivalent to 'Maplins' is (Radioshack?). Over the years, there have been amps and radios/hifi equipment that have used the kind of switch you want. Another avenue to explore is automotive spares stores. Again, many cars have used that kind of switch, especially prior to the 80s.

If I were doing it, I'd probably use a Fender Jaguar/Jazzmaster slider switch.

I did quite like the idea of the bank of three jaguar sliders, one turning it off/on and the other two as sliding pots, to control the level & volume, but I can't find the sliding pots. Presumably, the switch travel is too short for them to be useable.
 

Gaz_

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I wonder whether a relatively visible switch would remind you that your battery is on.
Yeah that's why I quite like the rotary switch with the big 60s knob. I'll also be wiring in the jack like a pedal so it's off unless plugged in.
 

WalthamMoosical

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If the sort of stomp switch you have in mind that would give you the action you want is (for example) DPDT, then you just have to find a rotary switch that is DPDT and wire it the same way. Likewise for 3PDT if you want to include an LED idiot light, etc.

Note that some of those rotary switches need a fair bit of torque for actuation so give some thought to how it will be mounted. The little tab on the side that we usually break off if it's a pot is there to help keep the orientation of the switch fixed, by having it poke through a tiny hole in whatever panel material is holding it; presumably that would be pickguard material or similar.

A toggle switch would perhaps not give the look you are after but might be easier to implement.
 

Gaz_

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If the sort of stomp switch you have in mind that would give you the action you want is (for example) DPDT, then you just have to find a rotary switch that is DPDT and wire it the same way. Likewise for 3PDT if you want to include an LED idiot light, etc.

Note that some of those rotary switches need a fair bit of torque for actuation so give some thought to how it will be mounted. The little tab on the side that we usually break off if it's a pot is there to help keep the orientation of the switch fixed, by having it poke through a tiny hole in whatever panel material is holding it; presumably that would be pickguard material or similar.

A toggle switch would perhaps not give the look you are after but might be easier to implement.

Thanks for your response, i've found this on RS components, i don't need an led, so i've looked for dpdt. This seems to give me what I want.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/1959353

Screenshot_20211205-200611.png
And am I right in thinking, to go dpdt, I'd just ignore the middle bank of the 3pdt switch, thus getting rid of the led and the problem?

Cheers for any help
Gaz
 

WalthamMoosical

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And am I right in thinking, to go dpdt, I'd just ignore the middle bank of the 3pdt switch, thus getting rid of the led and the problem?

What is certainly true is that you would ignore one "bank" (one "pole", that's the P in DPDT and 3PDT), whichever one has to do with the LED. From the image you posted, as best I can read it, it looks like that would in fact be the middle column of three contacts in the blue box.

Another thing that is probably correct about the switch series you linked to is that it is ON-ON rather than ON-OFF-ON, because I think that is what you are looking for. (I could contrive a reason to want the ON-OFF-ON, but I suspect it's not what you have in mind.) You might also make sure the physical dimensions of the switch (see the data sheet) are ok for your application. And make sure you know that you can get an appropriate knob--the shafts look like they are fairly small diameter.
 

Gaz_

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What is certainly true is that you would ignore one "bank" (one "pole", that's the P in DPDT and 3PDT), whichever one has to do with the LED. From the image you posted, as best I can read it, it looks like that would in fact be the middle column of three contacts in the blue box.

Another thing that is probably correct about the switch series you linked to is that it is ON-ON rather than ON-OFF-ON, because I think that is what you are looking for. (I could contrive a reason to want the ON-OFF-ON, but I suspect it's not what you have in mind.) You might also make sure the physical dimensions of the switch (see the data sheet) are ok for your application. And make sure you know that you can get an appropriate knob--the shafts look like they are fairly small diameter.

That's fantastic, thanks for the help, I think I'll go for that one, you're right about the shaft, but that's something I'm hoping to work around. There's a machine shop at work so I reckon I could get a little sleeve made, apart from that it looks the business, plus I can dremel the hole in a square roughy the right dimensions to avoid the torsion problem you warned of!
 

NoTeleBob

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Just spitballin' here... but if you are putting in a rotary switch, why not use a multi-position switch? Something like a 4 pole, 6 position rotary, a la a varitone type control. Then you can switch on the compressor as well have a few different compression settings by using fixed resistors to simulate a compressors pot/control.
 

somebodyelseuk

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I did quite like the idea of the bank of three jaguar sliders, one turning it off/on and the other two as sliding pots, to control the level & volume, but I can't find the sliding pots. Presumably, the switch travel is too short for them to be useable.

The "sliding pots" on the Jag and Jazzmaster are just mini-pots attached to a right-angled bracket, under the plate, with a thumbwheel that pokes through the hole in the plate.
Those are available from any guitar-parts store/site that caters for offset guitars, such as wdmusic, allparts, axesrus (in the UK).
 

Gaz_

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Just spitballin' here... but if you are putting in a rotary switch, why not use a multi-position switch? Something like a 4 pole, 6 position rotary, a la a varitone type control. Then you can switch on the compressor as well have a few different compression settings by using fixed resistors to simulate a compressors pot/control.

It's a really nice idea, but I'm hoping to go for simple once the compressors set up. The plan is, run it with a looper, firstly through the cs3 to have my "sound" then get a mate to play the xii while I tweak the knobs to sound around the same. THEN put the pickguard on and never worry about it again!
Hopefully.
 

Gaz_

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The "sliding pots" on the Jag and Jazzmaster are just mini-pots attached to a right-angled bracket, under the plate, with a thumbwheel that pokes through the hole in the plate.
Those are available from any guitar-parts store/site that caters for offset guitars, such as wdmusic, allparts, axesrus (in the UK).

So I could possibly modify this plate to take the rollers? Tempting, but I'm sticking to the idea above I think.

HEX62JPLATE-2.jpg
 

Skyhook

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I wonder whether a relatively visible switch would remind you that your battery is on.

My second guitar(an ES-S branded copy of a Les Paul Custom) had an onboard chorus with an extra pot in between the top row pots and an on/off switch
added beside the pickup selector. On the other side of the pickup selector there was a red LED installed. This thing lit up when the chorus was on.

My point here is that LED:s are definitely an option since OP is making new holes anyway.
 

Gaz_

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My second guitar(an ES-S branded copy of a Les Paul Custom) had an onboard chorus with an extra pot in between the top row pots and an on/off switch
added beside the pickup selector. On the other side of the pickup selector there was a red LED installed. This thing lit up when the chorus was on.

My point here is that LED:s are definitely an option since OP is making new holes anyway.

I'm leaving the LED's out, it's just another thing to drain the battery as far as I can see. I'm trying to have a nice big rotary switch knob, which will tell me quickly if the comp is on. Although, the main plan is to have it on the entire time I play, as I do with my boss cs3.
 

Larry F

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Barney Kessel used a chicken head volume knob on his guitar, saying that it was easier to see. I see your point about the LED.
 

Gaz_

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What is certainly true is that you would ignore one "bank" (one "pole", that's the P in DPDT and 3PDT), whichever one has to do with the LED. From the image you posted, as best I can read it, it looks like that would in fact be the middle column of three contacts in the blue box.

Another thing that is probably correct about the switch series you linked to is that it is ON-ON rather than ON-OFF-ON, because I think that is what you are looking for. (I could contrive a reason to want the ON-OFF-ON, but I suspect it's not what you have in mind.) You might also make sure the physical dimensions of the switch (see the data sheet) are ok for your application. And make sure you know that you can get an appropriate knob--the shafts look like they are fairly small diameter.

I realise this is slightly off the original topic, but would anyone be able to cast a quick eye over this and make sure I've got the right idea. The first one is the stompbox version provided, the second one I've crudely hacked to show what I think I need.
stomp version.PNG Onboard Compressor.jpg
Barney Kessel used a chicken head volume knob on his guitar, saying that it was easier to see. I see your point about the LED.
s-l1600.jpg

Yeah exactly, I've got one of these on order. It seemed to be the easiest I could get to the old electric xii knob without breaking the bank. I thought I'd see how it looks, maybe cut off the pointy end if I want to go more "authentic".
 




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