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Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by O T Hill, Apr 25, 2016.
The control PCB in the DRRI has the pots, jacks and the tone stacks for both channels.
I just got done hand-wiring my DRRI yesterday. It cost me less than $200 in parts... I only had to drill holes to mount the new board and relocate the reverb send & return jacks to the back.
h4ck.b0x7, nice work and IMO a very nice upgrade.
Wally, I fully understand your point, a high risk, low reward proposition to pull the pcb for such a mod.
Nice work, looks great!
Thanks man! Sounds even better! I've got a Weber 12F150 in it and a set of NOS tubes (RCA Black Plates, etc.)
nice job. Thats my future project sitting there. Enjoy.
Thanks for the replies and reassurance guys.
to the contrary, Fred....I feel like these mods are doable and of value on these particular PCB amps. I don't mod Blues/Hot Rod amps....outside of using a 12AY7 in V1 and warming up the bias.
Nice job, h4ck.b0x7.
I wonder what OT has found out about his reverb circuit?? OT, that reverb pot is accessible IF a person wanted or needed to do something about the way the pot acts...whether that be changing the pot or adding a resistor as Fred, iirc, suggested.
My mistake Wally. Based upon the last paragraph of your post, I interpreted it to mean that the difficulty in removing the pcb and the time involved was not worth the effort, especially if those efforts resulted in a broken pcb.
Thanks to both of you.... precisely why I cautiously started with "I could certainly be wrong...."
My memory has failed me again
The linear to log mod to my DRRI which I suggested to my tech was obviously doable and to my mind very worthwhile.
Actually, it's a good thing.
Instead of having to turn the knob to 7, you only have to turn it to 2.3 to get the same effect.
that's less time knob turning and more time playing!
it has only been a week, no tank yet. The new one should be here tomorrow and I am planning on installing it and just leaving well enough alone for awhile. I have two builds in front of me right now and lots to learn in the mean time, I will get to the deluxe soon but plan to play the thing for awhile as is. It sounds great and there is a lot to explore, I wouldn't want to waste an opportunity to learn what I can from it before I rip it's guts out and rebuild it basically ground up. I want to be able to trust the tank when I build the amp, so a new tank is justifiable, new pots and such will be part of the long range plan.
and yeah, more time playing- less time fiddling.
Besides, it sounds like my amp is very much like others of the same type. Sure I could make it better, everything can be better......
got the tank, had some time, finally got it in this morning and put back the 12AT7 that came with it (newer by about a decade according to the meticulous records kept by the previous owner) and I am a happy owner now. It still rolls on very quickly but it is a far less harsh reverb with only a slight brightness that to my ear isn't there when hearing true reverb in a large room, typical spring reverb IMHO. I can roll that off at the guitar at the loss of original signal brightness but less harsh "noise reverb" until 8 or 9 now. You can easily go too far with the reverb on these amps evidently, more range than is useful I think. My other reverb amp (Concert) has a useful range all the way through the sweep, this amp just has more.
So, it was the MOD tank and it's handling somewhere along the line I think. New accutronics tank in and it is much easier to roll on the reverb, but still too harsh and deep at 8 or more. Liveable.
thanks, this is a great forum. As I learn more I hope to be able to contribute more.
OT, kudos on getting things under control. Here is something I do for every reverb tank that comes around. I check the inductors. If they are loose, I solidify their mounting. this improves the reverb signal immensely, ime. I use suepr glue...or in extreme cases like this '76 Vibrolux reveb which had an inductor sliding up and down on those laminates, I use hot glue.
And I stopped by a GC today and played on a brand spanking new DRRI and guess what? It was probably worse than what I have in my amp as far as reverb tank anomalies. I plan to do some research on the old separate unit fender reverbs I see on the c'list once in awhile for around 5-600 for an original, usually a brown face. Couldn't be too tough a build, always been a bit curious as to why these things are still around and sell when put up, are they that much better than a pedal or the on board reverbs? My fender Concert amp has some definite tonal oddity to deal with but it has a sweet reverb, you would think an amp with the words deluxe and reverb in it's name would be the best fender had to offer but evidently that part was left behind with point to point construction or the re-issues are an accurate copy of what was a pretty new idea in 1965. I pretty much play dry anyway, reverb adds to the accuracy when chasing a particular sound used on a particular song, but just for me I like it loud and natural, sometimes I set up in the middle of the room and play facing a corner for my own personal reverb fix.
Enjoyed everyones help on this, learned some and hopefully left behind an informative thread for the next new amp owner with a reverb issue.
I bought my DRRI new and found the same thing... anything over 3 or 4 was, way, way too much. I run a 12au7 in either the reverb recovery or driver position. It still gets way too much reverb before reaching "10", but instead of getting to too much at "3", now that happens around "6" or "7". it seems more gradual as well.