No problem. If the board is already made, just ignore the suggestion to move the last filter cap.About the layout, can I not leave the B3 filter cap there and do the wiring you suggested? It doesn't fit on my board moving it in that position.
That is fine, I am sure some of the other shock brothers might have different opinions for the ground scheme.I can adjust the DIYLC file and attach it so everybody can make the changes they think is better.
Doh. My mistake. So sorry for the confusion. The Hammond 261D6 is rated for 250VAC red to red. To get the 300VDC B+ you will have to use the bridge rectifier. The PT CT will not be used. Heat shrink the PT CT and tuck it away. To get ~300 volts B+, it would need to be wired like this.On the secondary I measure red-red 280VAC and red-red/yellow 140VAC.
The schematic we are working from has a ground scheme that keeps each ground node together and is referenced to ground at only one point. In this case the one point is through a hum blocking network I have been calling a buffer. This ground scheme isolates all of the jacks from the chassis. Even the RCA jacks. We will have to be creative to connect the reverb tank chassis with the 6G15 chassis to have the reverb tank chassis acting as a shield (Faraday Cage).On the diagram you guys have been working with aren't they both grounded? Maybe I'm reading it wrong?
As mentioned this schematic tries to keep each ground node together. Each ground node has a filter cap associated with it. I have highlighted the layout below with lavender for the node powering the 6K6 screens and the reverb transformer. I have highlighted the node for the other tubes in maroon. Ideally the current in a node should stay close to each node filter cap. IOW, there is an order for connecting the grounds to the ground bus. Essentially all of the lavender should stay together and all of the maroon should stay together. Anyway that is why the bus is not just connecting the three filter caps in a neat little row.Second try
Disclaimer: There are many ground schemes that are perfectly quiet that do not follow these *theoretically best* ideas. The schematic we are using follows most of these *theoretically best* grounding practices.Now should be correct.
I am not sure I know what you are asking.I thought the buss was our negative of the load, should I go to the bridge directly from the reservoir of the 2nd filter cap (6K6 circuit)?
This is the answer to my questionThe 1st cap is the reservoir cap. The artificial CT from the bridge rectifier should connect directly to the negative side of the reservoir cap.
I built my 6g15 like this and also used hum blocker buffer, grouping all my power amp and preamp leads separately on the buss bar. The issue I ran into given the layout I also chose (the original Fender Reverb Unit layout) is it resulted in many and very long ground leads running through the amp. I'm considering rewiring my amp with a bus bar in parallel with the circuit board to allow for short ground leads. This would also be a compromise as it would be difficult to perfectly separate preamp and power leads this way. And especially difficult to connect my buffer to the preamp end of the ground bus (specified by the schematic you guys were using).Ideally the current in a node should stay close to each node filter cap. IOW, there is an order for connecting the grounds to the ground bus. Essentially all of the lavender should stay together and all of the maroon should stay together.
No, these are all relatively short distances as far as loss due to length (resistance) of wire.Putting the thicker wire should not compensate the long distance?
I notice the B+2 is very close to the coupling caps. Try to make some space there. (Green arrows on the picture below.)I'm trying to fix an annoying hum I have in my 6g15 that increases as the mixer knob increases.