Restringing tele with “locking” method? How much slack and winds for higher strings?

[Titebond]

Most of my guitars have 3x3 tuners like LPs and gretsches. I recently got a tele and was wondering how many winds I’d need on the B and high E if I string my guitars like in the video at 1:40. On. LP I’d give it about two frets worth of slack and wind it around the tuner two times for the B and high e string. Do the same rules apply for a tele? On the other strings I’d usually just give it a frets worth of slack and wind once.

 

[Jullecaster]

What kind of tuners do you have?

For my vintage tuners, I cut the strings 2 tuning posts ahead, like shown in the video.

For posts where the string doesn't go in... sounds ok how you do it as well as how it's shown in the video, I wouldn't sweat it too much. I usually put my thumb on the side of the fretboard at the first fret on the other side from the string I'm changing and guide the string over it, that gives me a bit of slack. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Fenderbaum]

I only use split shafts. You do not need locking method or anything on those. Stick in, bend down and wind.
1.5-2 winds on wound.
3 winds on plain.

In fact, a 3 quarter turn on unwound actually holds (except for Elixirs). But i would not recommend it though.

 

[SnidelyWhiplash]

I don't care for " locking " methods on regular tuners.

 

[AAT65]

Doesn’t matter whether it’s a Tele or any other guitar (except nylon strings, they’re a law unto themselves…).

For wound strings between 1 and 2 string-post-gaps before cutting is plenty, for plain strings at least 2 and nearer 2.5 for the high E.

And for wound strings, always bend before cutting in case the winding starts unspooling.

I think the “locking” idea is a wee bit helpful while you’re winding on - the string is less likely to jump back over the post if you don’t keep a finger tensioning it before it’s tight - but it’s not a big deal, and I don’t believe it makes tuning any more stable: tuning stability comes with a reasonably low number of winds on the post and some vigorous string-stretching to bed it all down.

 

[Freeman Keller]

I pull the string relatively tight and cut it at the next tuner (about one inch). For the 3rd and 4th I just eyeball it, maybe to the end of the headstock. Stick it thru the hole so 1/4 inch or so is sticking out, wind one pass over the top of the hole and the rest below, it will be about one wrap for the bass strings and maybe two for the treble. I've done it so many times its just automatic

 

[schmee]

I didn't view the video, I like to have ~5 wraps or so on the high strings and 2 wraps on the low E etc.

 

[kuch]

I cut the strings 2 tuning posts ahead

this is the recommended standard
From the Fender Telecaster set up guide:

TUNING KEYS​

How you wind the strings onto the pegs is very important, whether you're using locking, standard or vintage tuning keys. Start by loading all the strings through the bridge and then loading them onto the keys as follows:

Locking tuning keys. Picture the headcap of the neck as the face of a clock, with the top being 12:00 and the nut being 6:00. Line the six tuning machines so that the first string keyhole is set at 1:00, the second at 2:00, the third and fourth at 3:00, the fifth at 4:00, and the sixth at 5:00. Pull the strings through tautly and tighten the thumb wheel, locking the string in. Now tune to pitch.

Standard keys. To reduce string slippage at the tuning key, we recommend using a tie technique. This is done by pulling the string through the keyhole and then pulling it clockwise underneath and back over itself; creating a knot. You'll need to leave a bit of slack for the first string so you have at least two or three winds around the post. As you progress to the sixth string, you'll reduce the amount of slack and the number of winds around the keys.

Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being careful to prevent overlapping of the strings.

 

[telemnemonics]

One camp says wrap the string over itself and the other say never overlap, sting should only wrap on the post not on itself.

I never overlap as old wisdom (Maybe Irving Sloane?) said not to and I have no problems.

For number of wraps I like maybe one on the low E and several on the high E, pretty much always with split shafts which have a very secure hold due to the two hard bends.

Non split trad tuners kind of suck compared to splits and lockers so I would choose lockers for 3x3, have not converted yet but really only play Esquires.
I did buy sperzels for a couple of 3x3 guitars but they live in the dark of their cases and never go out of tune or need new strings!

 

[Mike Simpson]

Use split post tuners

 

[Titebond]

What kind of tuners do you have?

For my vintage tuners, I cut the strings 2 tuning posts ahead, like shown in the video.

For posts where the string doesn't go in... sounds ok how you do it as well as how it's shown in the video, I wouldn't sweat it too much. I usually put my thumb on the side of the fretboard at the first fret on the other side from the string I'm changing and guide the string over it, that gives me a bit of slack. Hope that makes sense.

Modern tuners like in the video at 1:40. They’re 2 pin ones that came with the squier affinity tele.

 

[old wrench]

I usually use vintage type, non-locking tuners on my guitars.

If you apply the lock-wrap properly, your strings will not slip - and if your tuners are any good, they won't slip either.

The first bit of guitar maintenance I was ever shown was how to do a proper lock-wrap when replacing strings - a long time ago, in the '60's - the friend that showed me, learned what he knew about the guitar from his dad and uncles who played guitars, mandolins, banjos, and fiddles.

I also do a variation on the lock-wrap by using wraps after the initial lock-wrap to force the string down lower on the post to increase the break angle somewhat - my friend showed me that too, and explained why you might want to do it.

So naturally, the higher strings get more wraps, the lower strings get fewer to accomplish that goal - pretty simple, and effective.


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