fjblair
Tele-Afflicted
Yeah I get that, but I don't normally look at my hot water heater unless there is a problem. In other words if the reminder is on the heater it's worthless to me.I always wrote the date of install with a big fat Sharpie.
Yeah I get that, but I don't normally look at my hot water heater unless there is a problem. In other words if the reminder is on the heater it's worthless to me.I always wrote the date of install with a big fat Sharpie.
Yeah I get that, but I don't normally look at my hot water heater unless there is a problem. In other words if the reminder is on the heater it's worthless to me.
Can you please explain what you mean by "tank has to fire hard to re-heat the whole tank"?.You don't empty the tank of hot water,the thermostat turns the valve on when the hot water is used.It doesn't wait until the tank is empty.And there is only 1 flame setting on gas heaters.Same with electric heater elements.Mine is at 22 years and will stay there until it starts to leak. I would not replace one unless it starts to leak.
Like a lot of things, it isn't the age that kills a water heater and it really isn't the hard water (it sure doesn't help though). What kills water heaters is running them out of hot water. When the tank has to fire hard to re-heat the whole tank, it puts a tremendous stress on the glass liner compared to just burning every now and then to maintain a temp. Never buy an undersized tank and you should get far greater than 20 years of service life.
I wondered about that as well.....water heaters are either "on" or "off", like an oven.....what varies is the duration of the "burn". Maybe he was thinking a longer duration puts stress on a tank? Obviously, I prefer a larger capacity to prevent running out of hot water, but don't see how that affects life of the unit. Of course, there could be factors I'm not aware of.Can you please explain what you mean by "tank has to fire hard to re-heat the whole tank"?.You don't empty the tank of hot water,the thermostat turns the valve on when the hot water is used.It doesn't wait until the tank is empty.And there is only 1 flame setting on gas heaters.Same with electric heater elements.
I wondered about that as well.....water heaters are either "on" or "off", like an oven.....what varies is the duration of the "burn". Maybe he was thinking a longer duration puts stress on a tank? Obviously, I prefer a larger capacity to prevent running out of hot water, but don't see how that affects life of the unit. Of course, there could be factors I'm not aware of.![]()
Thanks.Now I understand what you were saying.I should have chosen my words more carefully, but yes, I am talking about duration here.
I ran propane water heaters in all of my carpet cleaning trucks and the colder the inlet water, the longer it had to fire to heat to set temperature. When the hot water usage exceeds the capacity, the burner is playing catch up and will burn solid until the hot water usage is reduced. If the heater isn't tasked heavily, it only has to heat an already warm / hot water so the flame time is far less.
My first truck didn't have much reserve capacity to the tank and was pretty much always fired to try and maintain the temp setting....it also didn't last very long. I then installed high capacity reserve tanks and went years without problems.
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
My mom's condo had no drain to the outside from the pan underneath the water heater. What Ft Worth code requires in that case is a sensor that doesn't just sound an alarm if a leak is detected, but one that automatically shuts off the water supply to the tank. You may still have the forty or fifty gallons in the tank leak into your house, but at least it's not a continuous, never ending flow until you manually shut off water to the tank. Does your pan in attic have a drain line to outside? If not, I'd sure try to install one.Mine is only 3 years old, but it's in the attic with no way to relocate it. I do have a moisture sensor in the pan that will send an alert to my phone, but I'm sure I'll be proactive and (hopefully) replace the heater well before it's end-of-life date.
You could start a thread about prophylactically placing plywood on the rafters.This is completely a left-turn in the direction of the original topic, but I was changing a small, 30-gallon water heater in the attic of a pool house of this uber-wealthy client. No flooring down, so I was trying to work while balancing on the 2x8 beams. I lost my balance, and put my entire leg through the ceiling of a building that was worth 4x my annual salary at the time.
Tankless guarantee a constant supply of hot water and are more economical in the long run. Also there’s no tank to leak but they are more expensive and typically more difficult to install. Your gas or electric supply better be up to the demands of tankless too.What are the pros and cons of a tankless water heater and a conventional one?
I have a conventional 40 gal.gas water heater about 16yrs. old and it runs fine.
Is tankless worth it, or just stick with what I got if and when I need a new one.