Removing the Yellow

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Mr powers, Jul 12, 2021.

  1. zeke54

    zeke54 Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Okay . Goodbye .
     
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  2. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    5gvjl3.jpeg
     
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  3. oldunc

    oldunc Tele-Afflicted

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    Pepsodent?
     
  4. Ritchie Rooster

    Ritchie Rooster Tele-Meister

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    If the decal maters that much to you, try getting a new decal! They make them in correct years. But I'm so old school, we used to change necks & decals freely. There was none of the snobberies that seem so normal these days!
     
  5. plusorminuszero

    plusorminuszero TDPRI Member

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    You find Mother's pre wax and oxidation remover.

    It takes time, multiple applications with even
    and persistent action using a very soft cotton rag,
    shirt etc. Just be watchful and do not force with added
    pressure. Keep the exposed cloth clean. This will avoid
    accidental scrapes and save time/effort.

    Then, don't wax.

    Today's wax is tomorrow's problem.

    I have always been just fine with whatever is in this stuff
    being the last coating of anything. It looks like
    a thin tight wax job. No scratches. As such, when I go to
    clean up any area, the surface is already primed for it,
    and you aren't tasked with pulling off wax and reapplying it.
    Wax makes any cleaning much more difficult bc it needs
    to be matched again. How to best explain.... The Mother's
    will show no boundary problem when used on itself. But if wax was laid down
    and you go at an area with the Mother's, you run into boundary marks
    which look stupid and beg you to lift all the wax, again.

    Use sparingly, and wherever you apply it, do work it out,
    not just wipe it off.

    I have used this on many vtg instruments. It will not
    blast away at a decal however I would avoid
    doing more than necessary there. Work around it once you are
    pleased with it's appearance. A thorough cleaning involves
    removing many layers of smoke, old wax etc.... I did bring back
    an old Mustang, 73 lacquer burst, from a bad film that seemed to
    have no end. It took about 40 hours but I guarantee you
    that no paint was removed, just the filth.
    You will know when you are at base paint...it will
    stop smudging when you look for film using a finger tip.

    It is key that you do not use too much pressure on rag.
    You aren't relying on abrasion at all for this. If you want to
    use abrasiveness, then find another product. Yeah you could mix a little
    of some polishing compound in, and end with straight Mother's, but that's
    introducing a possible contraindication between
    the cleaner and whatever is in the compound.
    And for God's sake do not let anything w silicone near your guitars!

    Let the solvent (I think it is citric acid?)
    do it's job, yet you must always be working it.
    Add some spit when you find a trouble spot
    which isn't blending nicely.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2021
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  6. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Advice to the OP -- or any poster here -- if you ask advice on this form as to "how can I accomplish X" you must have a thick enough skin to survive the large fraction of comments that are going to try to convince you that you didn't really want "X." You just need to skip past those people who have a right to express an opinion in this case that they personally prefer the guitar the way it was. It's not a reason to leave the forum.

    Now go get your shine box (and leave that guitar alone)!
     
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