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Removing dents with a soldering iron

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by sataandagi, Mar 2, 2010.

  1. Steddie

    Steddie TDPRI Member

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    Bahahaha sorry, I can't help but add a non-constructive LOL to this thread at the expense of the people who've added superglue sugestions as if they are original, after the idea has already been put forth several times. Whats wrong with just supporting another poster's idea, rather than reposting the same stuff as your own?

    Just as a suggestion. when sanding down the glue, wet sand with the finest wet'n'dry sand paper you can find, hobby shops might be a better bet than hardware stores. And use a cork/rubber sanding block, not some timber or your hand-these will result in misery.
     
  2. sataandagi

    sataandagi TDPRI Member

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    Well, I have a bunch of 600 grit wet'n'dry sheets lying around. Gonna try this on the weekend.
     
  3. Muttcaster

    Muttcaster Tele-Holic

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    Check the posting times. I posted mine and when it showed, there were, much to my surprise, a couple of other identical responses. Some of us- not all, some- were posting literally at the same time.
     
  4. Stuco

    Stuco Poster Extraordinaire

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    Lol! Sorry mellecaster I couldn't help myself. :D
     
  5. Stuco

    Stuco Poster Extraordinaire

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    Most of them were joking, I know I was. :cool:

    To the OP, I do stand behind the technique that shan't be mentioned again!
     
  6. Smokestack

    Smokestack Former Member

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    Hey Mellecaster.... you're yelling at the Grand Canyon
     
  7. jwc5

    jwc5 Tele-Meister

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    I'd just buy a new guitar...... the one with the dent is ruined now.
     
  8. bingy

    bingy Friend of Leo's

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    Isn't it a steam iron that is used in woodworking?
     
  9. Jack S

    Jack S Friend of Leo's

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    steam iron vs. soldering iron

    Yes, either a steam iron or a soldering iron if you are working on raw wood. The issue here is that the finish makes the technique very risky.

    I have used both a steam iron and a soldering iron. The trick is you use a cloth or even a paper towel, but you damp it so the iron heats it up and it steams into the wood. I have pulled out some pretty big dings in raw wood with this technique.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2010
  10. Bluej58

    Bluej58 Tele-Holic

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    Ok,before you drop fill with super glue, make sure that you tape the area around the repair with masking tape to keep from having a accident with the glue.

    Leave the tape on and don't try to put a second coat on right a way, let it dry and shrink.

    The next day if it needs it, drop some more on, if not hit the patch with a small file.
    I like an a automotive points file.

    Go slow and get it level with the tape before you go to the sand paper.

    After you level out all the patches, wet sand the back of the neck with some 1200 or better and then some rubbing compound if you got it, and finally polish.

    It should look Fan Tastic
     
  11. Bluej58

    Bluej58 Tele-Holic

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    Yes there is a way to get through the poly by using a pin to poke holes in the finish
    and lay a hot wet rag on it.
    The warm moisture will start to take the dent out, but like Ron says heat can sure mess you up.

    Drop fill.....
     
  12. jefrs

    jefrs Doctor of Teleocity

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    I've used the superglue and it works on dings in poly, neck and body.

    I've also successfully used heat through wet cloths, but I use a steam iron. I've never dared to use a soldering iron because of the extreme heat and it is too localized.

    I've also used a radiant electric bar fire, a heated metal former (buck) and a heat gun (paint stripper) on thin wet timber to bend it to make side ribs for acoustics. I've also used boiling water, I found that it can take most finishes off too. It's the hot steam being forced into the timber that makes the fibres swell and renders them pliable.
     
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