Removing a Squier Decal?

[BackwaterJunction]

Don't shoot, I would never replace it with a Fender decal!

I like my Squiers just how they are, and I'm not even sure I'd go ahead with this anyway. But given most of my guitars get tinkered with, either by me or by someone vastly more qualified (usually the latter), I wondered about swapping the headstock decal for something that makes it a bit more "mine". I've seen sellers online that will do you a sort of vintage style decal with your own custom text, and I'd put something personal to me on.

Anyways, anyone know how easy this is to do? I wouldn't do this to my vintage tinted CV as I think I could end up messing the tint up, but I've got a satin finished Affinity that could work?

 

[guitarist232345]

If it's under the lacquer [it is on CVs], you will likely need some vintage hue dye to re-correct the sanded off colouring.

 

[Ghostdriver]

Easy job, you can even design your own and print it on waterslide decal paper from Amazon on an inkjet printer, then clear coat it before wetting, then clear coat over it once in place and bury it....I have done all mine this way

 

[Willie Johnson]

I took the inked-on headstock logo off of a Squier Bullet Tele with a Magic Eraser. You can see where there's a bit more shine on the headstock where I removed it, but it's very feint. Now all I need to do is come up with a "L'esquier" sticker to go with this single P-90 guitar and it'll be complete.

 

[BackwaterJunction]

If it's under the lacquer [it is on CVs], you will likely need some vintage hue dye to re-correct the sanded off colouring.

Thanks, I like how the decal looks on my CV Thinline, but might change it on the Affinity. The Affinity has no tint and is Satin not gloss, so hopefully a bit easier.

 

[BackwaterJunction]

Easy job, you can even design your own and print it on waterslide decal paper from Amazon on an inkjet printer, then clear coat it before wetting, then clear coat over it once in place and bury it....I have done all mine this wayView attachment 869105

Thanks, this is great info! How have you gone about removing logos?


Also I recognised your name from your thread about the modified Glarry a couple of months back. I'm considering one myself to try and learn some more of the ins and outs of repairs/mods myself.

 

[BackwaterJunction]

I took the inked-on headstock logo off of a Squier Bullet Tele with a Magic Eraser. You can see where there's a bit more shine on the headstock where I removed it, but it's very feint. Now all I need to do is come up with a "L'esquier" sticker to go with this single P-90 guitar and it'll be complete.

Sounds great. I think the Affinity one is slightly more than inked on, but I'll take a look.

 

[4 Cat Slim]

It's not especially difficult to do.
As with most finishing or refinishing projects, practice on a similar species
of scrap wood until you get the results you are seeking.

It's a good idea to apply your (new logo) decal on a glossy surface (decals adhere better to a smooth surface), let it dry thoroughly, then use
subsequent finish layers to protect the decal. These can be glossy or matte to bury the decal under finish layers.

It's fun to create a personalized headstock logo or have a friend with
art design software create one for you, and print it out using waterside decal paper as Ghostdriver advised previously.

 

[Ghostdriver]

Thanks, this is great info! How have you gone about removing logos?


Also I recognised your name from your thread about the modified Glarry a couple of months back. I'm considering one myself to try and learn some more of the ins and outs of repairs/mods myself.

Yep, thats me ! Although I generally build my own design guitars now !

Remove logo simply by sanding the headstock, start with 320 grit til its removed, then you may need to add stain to bring the freshly sanded wood back to colour to match neck etc....if not, you will defo need to apply/spray a thin coat of clear coat and letting it cure before adding the waterslide to avoid having the sanded wood colour underneath the decal shape as it will stand out a mile !

 

[E5RSY]

For the inked/silk-screened logos:

I used 0000 steel wool on mine. Comes right off, but does leave a slight shine that is visible if the light is right. Covering it up with the new logo pretty much made it a non-issue. When rubbing with the wool, just don't go nuts and be conservative as far as the area been rubbed.

 

[BackwaterJunction]

It's not especially difficult to do.
As with most finishing or refinishing projects, practice on a similar species
of scrap wood until you get the results you are seeking.

It's a good idea to apply your (new logo) decal on a glossy surface (decals adhere better to a smooth surface), let it dry thoroughly, then use
subsequent finish layers to protect the decal. These can be glossy or matte to bury the decal under finish layers.

It's fun to create a personalized headstock logo or have a friend with
art design software create one for you, and print it out using waterside decal paper as Ghostdriver advised previously.

This is really great information, thank you! I'll make sure I get some clear coats to finish over the decal.

 

[BackwaterJunction]

Yep, thats me ! Although I generally build my own design guitars now !

Remove logo simply by sanding the headstock, start with 320 grit til its removed, then you may need to add stain to bring the freshly sanded wood back to colour to match neck etc....if not, you will defo need to apply/spray a thin coat of clear coat and letting it cure before adding the waterslide to avoid having the sanded wood colour underneath the decal shape as it will stand out a mile !

Ah, onto bigger and brighter things!

That's great, thank you - so 320 grit for old logo, re-tint or clear coat, decal onto that, then clear coat over the top!

 

[BackwaterJunction]

For the inked/silk-screened logos:

I used 0000 steel wool on mine. Comes right off, but does leave a slight shine that is visible if the light is right. Covering it up with the new logo pretty much made it a non-issue. When rubbing with the wool, just don't go nuts and be conservative as far as the area been rubbed.

Thanks, I'll consider trialling this too!

 

[nickmsmith]

Very simple to do. Only difficulty is that you may get a “tan line” where the old logo was. In which case, you can sand the rest of the headstock to match.

 

[Ghostdriver]

Ah, onto bigger and brighter things!

That's great, thank you - so 320 grit for old logo, re-tint or clear coat, decal onto that, then clear coat over the top!

thats it.....good luck, good thing is if you sod it up its a pretty easy fix !

 

[4 Cat Slim]

Also, do a little research on the internet on Applying Decals on plastic models. Any of the sites connected with the scale modeling hobby
should have information on working with decal material.
Read a few of the articles and see how accomplished model
builders work with decals, (and as you say in the U.K.) Bob's Your Uncle!
You'll be working with decals and lacquers (same as model builders),
and trying to avoid air bubbles and silvering. Best of luck!

 

[BackwaterJunction]

Also, do a little research on the internet on Applying Decals on plastic models. Any of the sites connected with the scale modeling hobby
should have information on working with decal material.
Read a few of the articles and see how accomplished model
builders work with decals, (and as you say in the U.K.) Bob's Your Uncle!
You'll be working with decals and lacquers (same as model builders),
and trying to avoid air bubbles and silvering. Best of luck!

This is a great point, thanks - I'll do a bit of research into this.

I'd never noticed how odd a phrase "Bob's Your Uncle" really is!

 

[4 Cat Slim]

Here in the states, a common expression is "Easy as pie", which seems a bit odd as well!

 

[stratisfied]

I've done the Squier logo removal on a few with the silk-screened logo and satin finish. A scotchbrite pad takes it right off and if you lightly scuff the rest of the headstock face, it blends right in.

Depending on the age of the neck, you may find the white outline of the logo where the sun didn't darken the wood. If that's the case, you have to sand the entire headstock face back to white wood or hope your new decal covers it.

 

[JL_LI]

This is a great point, thanks - I'll do a bit of research into this.

I'd never noticed how odd a phrase "Bob's Your Uncle" really is!

Are you sure Uncle Bob’s not your dad?