RELICING FINISH

[duncan29]

Hello
Can anyone explain the process used to put small cracks in a butterscotsch finish, as seen in the relicing webpages recently. I see articles in regard to darkening neck finishes but cant find a good explanation or even better a web site with picture that would explain the process to me.
Thanks in advance for any response you may provide.

Ben

 

[Bswailes]

Can anyone explain the process used to put small cracks in a butterscotsch finish

WOW—this post fell through the cracks. There are all sorts of folks here who can help. Perhaps if you posted under the heading: Relic Finishes? I don't know...

But hey, the following email address is for Rob DiStefano. He has a wonderfully instructive website, and has been very helpful to me. Ask him who he would refer you to. Email him at: rfd@rfd.cc

I'm sure nobody meant to ignore you...but "relicing" may be confusing to others, as it was to me. Of course, I ain't right. But that's another post!


Brett

 

[PeterUK]

Hi Ben

The art of relic-ing is described in one of the finishing books available at StewMac - one of Dan Erlewines I think - is basically done by placing the body into a freezer and shocking the lacquer into cracking, giving the crazed lacquer checking associated with vintage instruments.

There are a few experts who carry out this work and I entrusted my last project to Mark Jenny, aka mjtele
((link removed)) who does this for his customers.

Mark has perfected his technique over a period of time and I'm sure if you drop him an e-mail he will give you a few pointers, but I suspect not the trade secrets.

Also visit Bravewood from this side of the pond. John does some excellent work (http://www.bravewoodguitars.co.uk/)

Also, look out for Pedalworld's posting on the making of a relic and you may learn a few tricks.

Hope this helps get you started.

Best regards

Peter

 

[Michael Murphy]

The hairline cracks are caused by a temperature differential. The wood expands/contracts at a different rate than the finish, thus creating the cracks.

Nitrocellulose finishes react instantaneously to temperature changes. The modern poly finishes react less dramatically, or sometimes not at all.

Try placing the guitar outside in direct sunlight and letting it warm up somewhat, then immediately spraying the finish with a can of circuit cooler (from an electronics supply store) to chill it. The can should be held upside down so that the propellant is what actually comes out.

If it's not warm enough for the direct sunlight to work, try some localized warming with a hair dryer, concentrating on a small area at a time. Be careful not to get it too hot (unless that's your intention).

Also, resist the temptation to place the body in the oven to heat it up. The glue used to glue up body parts typically lets go around 180º or so.

Afterwards, wipe a little dark grey or weak black stain over the finish, and immediately wipe clean. The dye will soak into the cracks to simulate years of built-up grime.


-Michael
Charter Member S. Texas He-Man Emoticon Haters Local #316

 

[Steel Oyster]

Relic finishes

Ben,
The other evening I found one of those eyepiece magnifiers (x10) in my tool drawer and I sat down and examined in minute detail the finish on my butterscotch '58 body and neck.
The fractures in the body finish described a weird pattern (a mixture of curves, lines and steps), and I am getting a detail of this pattern photographed with a decent macro lens. The fracture pattern on the neck varnish is similar, but not, I think, identical.
It looks nothing like the Let's Lob Keyrings bodies I've seen around. For some reason I think it's a chemical degradation rather than one introduced by thermal cycles, maybe that's because the guitar was gigged a bit, but lived mostly in a studio.

It might be worth experimenting with specialist paints, too. I have a crackle (?) finish paint kit (undercolour, overcolour and distresser, I seem to remember). I might have a play with these and see what sort of effect you can get with different mixes and ratios - on a spare piece of wood, of course!! Have a poke round the craft shops and see if there's anythng interesting in that line: would be worth trying!

Jas

 

[markophonic]

Afterwards, wipe a little dark grey or weak black stain over the finish, and immediately wipe clean. The dye will soak into the cracks to simulate years of built-up grime.

My 52RI is pretty beat up and has quite alot of finish checking from spending time in the the trunk of the car during cold Michigan winters...

Its not really noticeable unless you get the light on it at the right angle.

I took a little olympic ebony stain and cut it with some mineral spirits and rubbed it over the body, wiped it off and...WOW the checking really stands out now!!

It looks GREAT![/quote]

 

[markophonic]

Afterwards, wipe a little dark grey or weak black stain over the finish, and immediately wipe clean. The dye will soak into the cracks to simulate years of built-up grime.

My 52RI is pretty beat up and has quite alot of finish checking from spending time in the the trunk of the car during cold Michigan winters...

Its not really noticeable unless you get the light on it at the right angle.

I took a little olympic ebony stain and cut it with some mineral spirits and rubbed it over the body, wiped it off and...WOW the checking really stands out now!!

It looks GREAT!

 

[TheJayZizzle]

markophonic...post pics!!!!

 

[markophonic]

Here is a pic...

After wiping the diluted ebony stain over the already existing finish checking.

hope the links work!

(link removed)


(link removed)

You can kinda get the idea...it just expedites the cracks in the finish being filled with crud.