Relic fan with a relic complaint

Discussion in 'Fender Custom Shop Tele Forum' started by hwy145, Oct 3, 2013.

  1. hwy145

    hwy145 Tele-Afflicted

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    First I have and play them. This is just a point of annoyance. I just received a 52 telecaster relic, and though I love it, all the bridge hardware is so rusty, it won't move. I tried adjusting the saddle height on the bridge, and slotted portion literally broke off. Is this common? I'm going to (no big deal) have to replace all this crap. I've never seen an actual old tele with screws that are so rusty- especially pickguard screws...
     
  2. BradL

    BradL Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    This has happened to me. I brought it up recently on Strat Talk with respect to Strats (obviously) but I've experience of it happening with a couple of CS Teles too. FWIW I don't own any CS instruments that aren't relics so I have some experience of them. Out of 10 I own about 3 were in need of replacement parts.

    This is a 62 relic where no amount of Plus Gas was gonna shift the barrels. I've had it happen on another one and a question to my dealer about it the other week prompted him to bring out a relic thin-line with replacement hardware due to the same thing.

    FWIW I live by a sea coast so maybe, somehow, the salty air in my neck of the woods (the dealer is right on the coast too) is a factor but I seriously doubt it. These came from the Custom Shop that way. Totally fused.

    Comes with the territory I guess. Not a biggie for me but caveat emptor and all that.

    CS 62 Relic (with relic rust!)
    [​IMG]
     
  3. PinewoodRo

    PinewoodRo Tele-Afflicted

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    That's pretty authentic relicing! I have had scratchplate screws that are so rusty they fell apart - this from genuine playing, not relicing. Seems to me that replacing seized up rusty saddles is normal wear-and-tear. I guess some sweat is more corrosive than others?
     
  4. telex76

    telex76 Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    My CS 54 Tele had some pretty rusty hardware for what was suppose to be a light relic.
    I was able to oil and get all screws to turn eventually and it all works fine now.

    After you relic the screws, especially if you expose them to muriatic acid, you need to "fix" them to stop the process.
     
  5. hwy145

    hwy145 Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm not overly worried about the saddle screws, but I'd like to replace the bridge screws. They look really rusty, and I don't want to shred them...
     
  6. mlove3

    mlove3 Tele-Afflicted

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    "the bridge hardware is so rusty, it won't move.
    I'm going to (no big deal) have to replace all this crap."


    You want it to look like crap but not be crap, got it.
     
  7. netgear69

    netgear69 Tele-Afflicted

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    spray some wd40 on it
     
  8. Tommyboy

    Tommyboy Tele-Holic

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    Yes, sometimes they tend to go a little overboard when they relic the parts.

    If you want to clean up the rusty screws, just polish them up a little with a scotchbrite pad. A wire wheel on a high-speed rotary tool works well for cleaning up the threads. If you don't have a rotary tool, an old toothbush and a little metal polish will also brighten them up.
     
  9. Olgabowl

    Olgabowl Tele-Meister

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    I use nuclear-grade (not kidding) Never-Seize on the threads before antiquing any hardware with threads, and it works wonderfully...
     
  10. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Just a "Grading", we don't actually use that crap on ANYTHING lol. Last time I've seen never seeze used was a bad day for everyone lol
     
  11. rebelwoclue

    rebelwoclue Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    I've never "antiqued" a guitar part but I have browned a percussion cap muzzleloader that I built. Browning is the old way of "bluing" a gun barrel and parts and involves using an Indian acid browning technique. On each application, you must stop the process with oil or it will keep corroding the metal to a point of distruction. Guitar techs need to understand this and ensure they stop the process completely and also ensure the parts are coated afterward so they can be servicable.
     
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