Red Black Pearl Rest thinline

eallen

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I haven't had time to do a brotherhood build thread last year & still don't this year but thought I'd share a build that kept getting pushed aside for other builds for close to a year. Setup finally got finished oday.

A mahogany body with curly maple top. Finished with a red to black fade with gunmetal pearl mixed into clear misted over the color before final nitro clear coats. I had little luck getting the pearl to show in the pics.

The neck is curly maple with a leopard wood fretboard and matching color fade on the heal. Compound radiused from 9-12.

The top is 3/8" to allow for a 1/8" carve on bass side of the top and and the access carve at the treble horn.

I left the bass side thinline route wall 3/4" thick to accommodate a chamfered to expose the mahogany with. I left a 1.5" wall thickness at the horn for the carve there. The top is thinned down to 1/8" in the control area from the back.

The f-hole cutout is a slightly stretched rest note, a slight contradiction to the hard rocking Bill Lawrence Wilde L500L & R humbuckers on a 5-way Schaller.

The bridge is a Schaller 3D roller top loader with am optional spacer to lift the strings off the body a bit to give a little more room between the body for hard pick use.

A fund build.

Eric
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eallen

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The curly maple neck back and sides are matching black pearl fade. If I had to do it over I would have done a black dye sand back prior to spraying the fade.

The fretboard inlays are pau heart shell and green glow side markers.

The tuners are equally unique Schaller M6 lockers with small button top locks.

Eric
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eallen

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I realized I didn't get any complete shots of the back after assembly! This one is from somewhere in the back shading process.
My usual grain matching magnetic latch cover.

A couple additional ones from the finish process. I apply a coat if sealer to any areas that won't be getting a dye sandback before doing dye on an adjacent area. Helps avoid dye soaking deep into bare wood where it doesn't belong.

It's been so long since I started this one I forgot how bad my large bearing bowl router bit I was using to shave the step down area needed to be replaced at the time. I just use one of my 3 step templates I use for doing a full carve top and transitioned the ends with the drum sander.

Eric

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