Real butt cracks

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Dan Estock, Jun 25, 2020.

  1. Wally

    Wally Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I never accept that a screw that's unknown to me is ‘standard’. I used to keep bit sizes for U.S. made Fender screws written down. These days I simply use the screw to judge the bit size by holding the bit behind the screw against the light to judge what bit I need.

    Are you going to forego inserting support splines? I believe that an undersized hole caused this, but there are other forces to deal with that could lead to failure of this repair unless the repairs are strengthened, imho. Remember if and when these cracks Re-open that they can be refused if you use wood glue and that then you will want to support the glue job with splines.
     
  2. Dan Estock

    Dan Estock TDPRI Member

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    I used thinned out elmers wood glue and did the spread-apply-unspread cycle 5 times then clamped. I have to look into the spline thing, I’m not familiar with that.
     
  3. Wally

    Wally Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Dan, sometimes one runs across a certain situation once so one has to think outside the box. One logs in that experience in case something similar arises. I detailed in usable detail in my post #36 how to go about this spline repair. I have used this to reinforce repairs to the front edge of acoustic bridges that had broken out....it works because the spline is placed across the simple glue repair in such a direction that the insert prevents the crack from being forced open. but...as I noted above in my post #41, if your glue repair that you made fails in the future, you redo that and the. Do the spline reinforcement.
     
  4. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    If St. Leo had called that end of the neck the "butt", nobody would really have complained. But "heel" is the word that he used, so these are "Heel Cracks".

    I would find some neck screws of the next size larger, insert the screws just enough to open up the wound as it were, and then moisten the wood just a tiny bit and wick some Titebond II wood glue into these cracks, wait 10 minutes - then remove those screws and lightly clamp the heel, side to side. The excess glue should squeeze out, or at least migrate into the screw hole. Wait as long as you can (a week if possible) then unclamp, clean away the glue residue, and re-assemble the instrument.

    I like cyano-acrylate glues, but not for this application. Not enough strength/sheer resistance.
     
  5. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    It's likely fine, but flow some CA glue in there, it wicks in deep and fast. The holes were drilled too small, it doesn't take much interference with maple to hold. Most wood glues etc wont get in there at all.
     
  6. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    If this is a factory neck with factory screws, these screws will not open the crack up enough to let the glue really get down in there. If you've got to repeat something ten times, then you could be doing it a better way.

    Having said that, I would assign ten times more weight to the opinions of those who said "wood glue" than those who say super glue. There are non stress situations where a thin formula super glue would be a great choice. But this is a "stress" application, no question.

    Btw, keep your left over super glue in your freezer between uses. It extends the life real nicely.
     
  7. John Owen

    John Owen Tele-Afflicted Ad Free Member

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    Don't forget Jethro.
     
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