re-sawing on the bandsaw - recommendations

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by pshupe, Sep 13, 2021.

  1. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    Good morning everyone. I've got some re-sawing to do. I picked up some ebony, rosewood, and some curly maple as well the other day. I also have some walnut, pine, and cedar, that I would like to re-saw.

    The ebony and rosewood will be quite short, for fret boards, so about 3" re-saw height. The curly maple will be for top caps so should be around 8" or less. The walnut, pine, and cedar, is for other wood working projects and may max out the re-saw of my saw which is 14".

    I have a fairly powerful bandsaw. It's a 3hp Laguna LT14 SUV and the largest blade is 1" width. I'm looking for recommendations for good re-saw blades and any other tips for re-sawing these different materials. I expect to buy a few blades as to purchase the right blade to match the wood. Thanks in advance for any tips.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  2. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    While your saw says it will take a 1" band...that's really not a good idea for a 14" wheel. A good half-inch, 3t or so band will do your resaw work just fine with that machine and not be stressed to the max by the tight radius of the saw's wheels. I have a very heavy SCM/Minimax 16" saw that I don't ever run more than a .75" band on for that reason and typically just use a .5" band. While I've historically been using Timberwolf bands, I'm going to be trying bi-metal or similar going forward for better life. Carbides are nice, but the selection in the narrower widths are few, the bands are thicker and more prone to fatigue with small wheels and the kerf is wider, resulting in more waste.
     
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  3. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Jim. Yes, I actually had a 1" carbide tipped band that was great but it broke but that is another story. Great tip and has me leaning towards a 1/2" or 3/4" carbide, if I go that route. I'm wondering whether I should get a band with more TPI and expect to run slower through the very hard woods, like the ebony and rosewood? The local shop has a 3/4" re-saw band that I might pickup today and use on the softwoods, as I need to get those cut and the band is pretty inexpensive. Thanks again. :)

    Cheers Peter.
     
  4. oldunc

    oldunc Tele-Afflicted

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    Not clear on size of wheels- I thought he was saying the resaw capacity was 14", which is the capacity of my 17" bandsaw. Highland Woodworking's resaw blades are really excellent.
     
  5. bullfrogblues

    bullfrogblues Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    My understanding is less teeth per inch for resaw.
    My favorite blade used to be a Timberwolf 1/2" 4tpi.
    Lots of good blades on the market, though.
     
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  6. Telekarster

    Telekarster Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    I've been buying blades from this company for years. They are high quality IMO at a good price. You might consider checkin' em out. They've got every blade you could ever want, and their customer service is great too, and fast shipping.

    https://www.timberwolfblades.com/
     
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  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    My tip is to start the resaw on both edges of the board on the table saw. You can probably go 3" deep on each edge. That way the bandsaw has less to resaw. A thin kerf blade would probably save you some wood.

    Really a dedicated re-saw bandsaw is probably the way to go. I didn't have any better luck with a timberwolf blade doing the resawing on some walnut, than a regular skip tooth blade. I didn't care for the lower blade tension and its floppiness, but that's just my experience on a 14 Delta that isn't really designed for re-sawing.

    The other tip is don't try to squeeze out one more piece....keep the pieces a little thicker.


    73_ft_Resawing_LL_CPJT.indd (woodcraft.com)
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2021
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  8. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    My saw is 14" dia wheels but 14" re-saw capability. The throat is obviously shorter because of the 14" wheels but re-saw is great. Thanks.

    Cheers Peter.
     
  9. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    Yes I have heard that as well but with the harder wood I have heard it's better to have more tpi and go slow. Also in my case the re-saw is quite short at about 3". I tried my carbide tipped band on some rosewood and it didn't go well. In that case I think it had already been slightly deformed and was close to breaking so it wasn't tracking well.

    Cheers Peter.
     
  10. Telekarster

    Telekarster Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    No one told me this but it just seemed the logical approach so.... this is exactly how I do it. For me, 14" Craftsman, tpi and going slow works pretty well. I think I have 8 TPI on the saw right now if I recall correctly. I'd have to go out to my shop and see but I'm outta town right now. I'm pretty sure it's 8 though... FWIW ;)
     
  11. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    What is the width of the blade? I'm heading off to the local place today. I might pickup a 1/2" or 3/4" with low TPI for the softer wood and a higher TPI blade for the harder wood. I have a 3/8" with a high TPI that is my general purpose blade. I might try that for the rosewood and see how it goes. As I said it's only about 3" tall so it may be fine. The thicker / wider blades seem to do better at taller re-saw, correct? I assume because they stay straighter and also can have a slightly higher tension applied, again?? Thanks for the quick responses.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  12. Telekarster

    Telekarster Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    I pretty much stay with 3/8 or 1/2 depending on what I'm doing but yeah, if I'm doing something thick then 1/2" is what I use. I personally don't find a need to go wider than 1/2 for most of what I do, even though my saw can accomodate wider if I wanted to do so.
     
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  13. Peegoo

    Peegoo Doctor of Teleocity

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    More TPI = smaller gullets between the teeth, which gives the sawdust less room in the kerf. This is what causes a blade to deflect, even with a very slow feed speed.

    It's difficult to resaw and have nice smooth surfaces right out of the saw. There's a tradeoff; you have to fine a happy medium between smoothness of cut and accuracy of cut. A low-TPI blade cuts straighter but leaves more saw marks. A high-TPI blade leaves less saw marks but wanders a bit more in the wood.

    Here's Matt Wandel with a really good analysis of this stuff.

     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2021
  14. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I would not do that for resawing work...you need less teeth to be able to properly clear out the chips/dust and it can start to be an issue with thicker material even if you go slow. That builds up heat which in turn affects the tooling life. If you can get the carbide you like in 1/2", that's going to be a better bet for your saw as it "may" fatigue less with the smaller wheel. Carbides are typically thicker bands which don't bend as well as the thinner bands that work well on 14" machines. And a carbide band that breaks is an uber-big expense! (been there...done that...)
     
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  15. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Jim. Yeah - I was thinking because it would only be 3" re-saw that I could use the thinner blade with more teeth and go slower. This might result in a cleaner finish. As long as I do not load the gullets it should be straight as well with only the 3" height. I might give the 3/4" 3 TPI on a test piece to see how it goes on the harder wood as well.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  16. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    I have both 1/2" 3 tip and 3/4" 3tpi and the 3/4 is hand down a more consistent cut. Your Laguna at 3hp will have no problem with a 3/4". I resaw 8" hardwoods with no issue but if you push the cut without letting the saw do the work even thicker blades will wonder off. A huge need on a thick blade on large hardwood resaws is proper blade tension. Without it your blade will cup in the middle leaving a dish in the resaw.

    I use timbermate and have been happy with them, but primarily because of the affordability. The are nowhere close to the same league as the Laguna caribe you had, or price!

    Eric
     
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  17. Randy Jones

    Randy Jones TDPRI Member

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    +1 for the 4tpi 1/2" timberwolf. Was able to resaw 6" old growth doug fir in 1/8" widths with it on my ancient 12" craftsman.
     
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