Quickest way to tarnish Chrome?

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IllinoisTwang

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I decided I wanna put my Hipshot on my reliced partscaster because my fingers are gettin tired of the bends :/ problem is, It's chrome, I need this thing lookin rustic. I could throw it on the wheel brush on my bench grinder but that'll just scuff it. Ideas?
 

ScottieHotrod

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It will tarnish. Maybe in about 500 years or so.

If you scratch it deep enough the metal underneath (brass, or nickel? not sure) will tarnish.

Better off getting some nickel parts, they age nicely.
 

StratBluesRock

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My friend has used some sort of acid (hydrochloric?) to age tuners, HB covers, and the like. Worked great, but you have to be careful when working with it.
 

LeftyAl

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Come to Florida .It will tarnish in a day,rust to pieces in a month
 

IllinoisTwang

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StratBluesRock said:
My friend has used some sort of acid (hydrochloric?) to age tuners, HB covers, and the like. Worked great, but you have to be careful when working with it.

This is more of the answer I was lookin for. I thought about heating it with the torch too but I feel it might get brittle.
 

Ronkirn

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there is "tarnish" where the chrome stays in tact, but the coloring changes a little, and there there is erosion where the chrome surface becomes hazy, pitted, or gone altogether allowing rust to develop... what effect are ya looking for?

r

.
 

IllinoisTwang

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Ronkirn said:
there is "tarnish" where the chrome stays in tact, but the coloring changes a little, and there there is erosion where the chrome surface becomes hazy, pitted, or gone altogether allowing rust to develop... what effect are ya looking for?

r

.

More of a hazy, dull look.
 

southwoodgtars

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As far as the acid deal goes. I have done it a few times to try and match some aging on other parts. You never put the part directly in the acid. This is the best I have found to do it. First you put about an inch of acid in the bottom of a Tupperware container then put a smaller container in that with the part in it and seal it up for a bit and let the fumes do their work for a bit. Be very careful and wear gloves and check it often till you get the desired effect. Once you rinse it with water you will notice it didn't go as far as you thought and you will have to put it back in. It is easy. It just takes a while. I hope this helps.
 

StratBluesRock

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As far as the acid deal goes. I have done it a few times to try and match some aging on other parts. You never put the part directly in the acid. This is the best I have found to do it. First you put about an inch of acid in the bottom of a Tupperware container then put a smaller container in that with the part in it and seal it up for a bit and let the fumes do their work for a bit. Be very careful and wear gloves and check it often till you get the desired effect. Once you rinse it with water you will notice it didn't go as far as you thought and you will have to put it back in. It is easy. It just takes a while. I hope this helps.

Hmmm, my friend just put the acid in a Tupperware container, put the hardware in, let them sit for ~24 hours, and took them out.
 

Racer5

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As far as the acid deal goes. I have done it a few times to try and match some aging on other parts. You never put the part directly in the acid. This is the best I have found to do it. First you put about an inch of acid in the bottom of a Tupperware container then put a smaller container in that with the part in it and seal it up for a bit and let the fumes do their work for a bit. Be very careful and wear gloves and check it often till you get the desired effect. Once you rinse it with water you will notice it didn't go as far as you thought and you will have to put it back in. It is easy. It just takes a while. I hope this helps.

I remember reading on here about doing this with vinegar, or putting vinegar and salt together and spreading it on.
 

TeleKato

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Here's a pretty heavy level of 'relic/tarnish' that I did on a project. These are the ashtray covers purchased at the same time; one pristine the other by my hand.

Used Radio Shack PCB etchant.

I scuffed the chrome with 1500grit sandpaper, and then used Qtips to dab the etchant on. Left it on for just a minute or so ... my advice is do it for a few seconds, wash it off, and then do more if you want more. I wanted what I got ...

I use that PCB etchant for doing screw-heads, used it on a Fender PatPending bridge, control plate and knobs, jack-plate, etc.
 

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TeleKato

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And here are some of the other parts (had some pics I forgot I had). Now here, I used a dremel tool with an abrasive bit and did a little more 'digging' and dinging on the bridge and on the knobs (see the spots of heavier wear). But again, used the PCB etchant.

When I ended up with a little too much 'rust' ... I then used some Naval Jelly to back that down a bit. It was experimental to be sure.
 

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IllinoisTwang

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southwoodgtars said:
As far as the acid deal goes. I have done it a few times to try and match some aging on other parts. You never put the part directly in the acid. This is the best I have found to do it. First you put about an inch of acid in the bottom of a Tupperware container then put a smaller container in that with the part in it and seal it up for a bit and let the fumes do their work for a bit. Be very careful and wear gloves and check it often till you get the desired effect. Once you rinse it with water you will notice it didn't go as far as you thought and you will have to put it back in. It is easy. It just takes a while. I hope this helps.

Awesome, this is what I needed to know, would acetone work just as well?
 

IllinoisTwang

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TeleKato said:
Here's a pretty heavy level of 'relic/tarnish' that I did on a project. These are the ashtray covers purchased at the same time; one pristine the other by my hand.

Used Radio Shack PCB etchant.

I scuffed the chrome with 1500grit sandpaper, and then used Qtips to dab the etchant on. Left it on for just a minute or so ... my advice is do it for a few seconds, wash it off, and then do more if you want more. I wanted what I got ...

I use that PCB etchant for doing screw-heads, used it on a Fender PatPending bridge, control plate and knobs, jack-plate, etc.

Great stuff man, thanks for the pics and input!
 

southwoodgtars

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StratBluesRock said:
Hmmm, my friend just put the acid in a Tupperware container, put the hardware in, let them sit for ~24 hours, and took them out.

I'm sure that would work as well. The reason I have done it they way I have is that I think it is easier to control. Especially if you are trying to match a part that is already old or old looking. No right or wrongs it's just what has worked best for me.
 
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