Question on Squire string through conversion

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by nashville40, Mar 15, 2015.

  1. nashville40

    nashville40 TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
    Location:
    Chicago
    Sorry for the lengthy first post.
    It's seems to be all the rage for guys, especially players starting their first build to purchase a Squire for anywhere from $79 to $299 with Affinity necks, Alder bodies, and some of the cheapest hardware and electronics you'll might ever see because some Squires are cheaper than a just a Warmoth neck. If they are lucky, they won't have to toss both
    The neck AND the body LOL!! But let's say you decide to convert to the string through body set-up. Is it absolute necessary to counter sink the holes? I've attempted to save one of these builds that had gone wrong, but didn't attempt the conversion, so Jnwould even know where to start. Also my body was ash. I swear Inuaed a trash cans of grain filler, a 55 gal drum of CA glue, and it seemed like a case of sand and sealer and still didn't get a flat surface l. At least it sure seemed that way.

    What typically is more of a challenge to prep a nice smooth, flat surface, Alder, or Ash? I know some guy swear by oil base filler. Can you get by with water based on one better than the other?

    Is there much of a sonic difference if you don't counter-sink the string through holes?
    Does anyone have an acceptable method of achieving the string through procedure WITHOUT a drill press?

    Are there any pitfalls that one should look out for attempting this mod?

    Thanks guys, I really appreciate the feedback gents.
     
  2. kellytaster

    kellytaster TDPRI Member

    Posts:
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    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2012
    Location:
    Glenrothes
    Having done a conversion to a cheapish body to all string through ferrils I think if the bridge is in the correct position them the placement of the holes should also be correct, as for drilling the holes that is snother matter. If you do not have a drill press that allows you the distamce 'in' to the part of the body where the bridge is, then the only other option is to do it by hand, this will have to be done very very carefully if the drill is not at exact right angles to the body in every direction then where it exits on the other side can bea problem! Ideally you want all the ferrils on the guitar back to be in line or as neatly as possible. So my advice would be if you are mot confident to do this take the body to a wood working shop and ask them to drill it with a drill on a vertical rig. Or better still contact a luthier. Hope this helps.
     
  3. Pawnshopper

    Pawnshopper Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    183
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Location:
    MO
    (1) Mount the hardtail bridge
    (2) Mark where the string holes should be
    (3) Unmount the bridge
    (4) Drill the low "E" and high "E" holes completely through the body
    (5) Drill the other four holes halfway through the body

    (6) Flip the guitar body over
    (7) Place the hardtail bridge on the body
    (8) Align the bridge using the two holes from (4)
    (9) Mark where the remaining four holes should be
    (10) Remove the bridge
    (11) Drill the remaining four holes to meet the holes from (5)

    This process worked well enough for me, but it is far from perfect.

    Other random steps that come to mind:
     
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