Question about soldering on PCB board. Technique, etc.

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by RockStarNick, Jul 13, 2009.

  1. RockStarNick

    RockStarNick Tele-Meister

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    Hey guys. Just got done re-capping the amp that I was working on. Also did some new resistors as well. It was on some PCB board.

    Everything went really well. Fired it up, works perfectly.

    I took a good look at some of the factory solder joints compared to my own. Most of them look identical. But some of them look SLIGHTLY yellowed around the edges, if that makes any sense.

    Other than that, it's impeccably neat. Not gloppy. Nice and shiny connectons, very sturdy. No "cold" solder joints. I guess I'm just bummed because on some of the connections, it doesn't look 100% stock.

    I don't want to say "burnt", because I've seen burnt PCBs, and this is not that... but it looks like some of the resin or flux got cooked a TAD too much?

    Doesn't seem like it affects the tone or operation at all. I used a nice small 15W iron, and good solder, and soldered 100% properly. Did I just hold the iron on a second too long?
     
  2. Cleeve

    Cleeve Tele-Holic

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    The rosin flux inside of the wire-type solder is amber in color compared to the clear spray flux used on the wave soldering production process. Also sometimes black oxides on the iron tip blend with the flux to make it even darker when it melts onto your work.
    You could use some solvent and a toothbrush to clean off the rosin from your joints, but it really does nothing but change the way it looks, and the solvent isn't too good to breathe.
     
  3. RockStarNick

    RockStarNick Tele-Meister

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    Being that I work on my amps in my living room, I'll forego the solvent. haha.

    Thanks Cleeve!
     
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