Question about Les Paul style bridge assembly

[BFcaster]

I would say make yourself a template, first off.
Put your bridge on some scrap-wood, tape some paper (hopefully a print-out and multiple copies of the bridge's placement template...Google it if not included with the bridge itself) over the scrap-wood, drill and install the posts and bridge. See how it fits- too close, too far, not the right angle? Okay then just repeat.
When you get it, you got it- take that template to the guitar and have at it.
Be very mindful of your drill's depth!
The MapleFlame mod....I had my LP with normal posts into the wood (non-Nashville), then upgraded to the MapleFlame mod after a few years.

{For those that don't know, the MapleFlame mod is all about better sustain. It involves a longer post down into the mahogany - though the maple top- of a Les Paul, by taking a thumbwheel, going to your local hardware store, and seeking out the screws, nuts and bolts (eaches) section. You want the STAINLESS STEEL tray. Brass, IMHO, will bend quick!! Test-fit the thumbwheel to the size that fits (could be English or Metric- that was your choice when you bought it), get a size that is at least 1.75-inches long. You'd want, IMHO, a Dremel with a cut-off wheel- install over the existing or created post holes, fit the bridge to roughly the height, and be done with it. After you are DONE with everything, and play it in it's glory, and find you need some string-height and action adjustments, make them as needed and then make a mark (fine-point Sharpie worked well) on the too-tall stainless bridge posts. Remove the bridge (yes you can just loosen the strings and slide it out, but..). Now use the Dremel cut-off wheel and trim the posts of excess material. Some sanding around the cuts with 400 will smooth things out so they don't draw blood .}

Because the stainless posts I bought were too-tall, I just used pliers and man-handled them into slightly smaller-diameter guide-holes, drilled to the correct depth. Since I was stripping (using the pliers...actually vise-grips) the threads up above where I was eventually going to cut them off, I had no worries. And stainless steel is stronger than brass.

 

[toonskeez]

This is the reply I got back from Faber after I emailed them, asking what size thread the bridge studs are:

ST-MNA-B Faber 4mm metric, '59 ABR Brass! Studs and Brass! Thumbwheel Kit,

= 4mm thread.

For your guitar project I do recommend you to ask a guitar tech for help and assistance

So that's not much help. I mean, I already know the outer thread diameter is 4mm.
I feel like emailing them back, but if I do, how exactly should I word my question? Theyguy that replied to me obviously thinks I wanted to know what the outer diameter of the threads is, but like that's already stated on the website and so I obviously know that.

 

[toonskeez]

I emailed the guy back and said this:

Thanks for the reply, but I need to 'tap' the holes in the wood, once I've drilled them, so that the studs will screw into the wood properly.
I tried to find an answer on guitar building forum. This is one reply I got on that forum:

The best way to install the studs for the bridge is to first drill the holes and then tap them so there are threads to match the studs. (Not sure what size threads Faber uses on their studs, but they can tell you. Probably M4-.7)

So when I'm asking what 'size' of thread is on the studs, I don't just mean the outer diameter (4mm), I need to know the corresponding name for the studs, whether that is M4-.7 or something else, because when I 'tap' the two drilled holes, the threads I 'tap' need to match the threads on the studs exactly, so the studs screw in perfectly and don't chew up the wood.

He replied back to me with:

Do you want make a M4 thread into the wood?

If so, make a 3,2mm hole for the 4mm bridge stud

So at least that's a start.
I called into a hardware store today and was talking to the guy in there. He recommended another place that specializes in hardware for metal and said that they could probably measure the stud precisely to determine it's thread size, so hopefully that will get me the info I need.

 

[toonskeez]

As regards measuring to get the bridge both the right distance for intonation and the right position for string alignment, I spent a fair it of time determining both. For placement of bridge for proper string alignment, I basically masking taped a long piece of thread exactly in the middle of fretboard between nut and 1st fretboard, then pulled it taught along whole length of fretboard (hovering it over another piece of masking tape with pencil line indicating center of fretboard at end of fretboard), then placed a set square on body top and brought it up snug to touch the thread. I then marked a small pencil mark at bottom of set square to indicate the center of where the stings will be as they reach the bridge. I then just drew a pencil line equal distance left and right of this pencil mark and punched two marks for where each stud hole will go.

 

[crazydave911]

Run the Stew Mac fret calculator, the paragraph below the numbers is what you need

 

[BFcaster]

@toonskeez That's basically what I do too. You have to know where dead-center of the fretboard is on both ends- it's along that line from first to last frets extended to the bridge that marks the center of the bridge and/or tailpiece. This line also establishes the scale length. Don't forget to allow for some neck relief! You'll lose some distance with string tension/neck pull.
For both E string alignment, I actually use thread from the tuners down to where I will have my bridge (using painters tape at the proposed location and a temporary nut make out of a piece of wood). This keeps me from going too far East or West with the bridge- nobody wants a string to fall off of the fretboard!

The trick then becomes how much of an angle. Easier on a strat or tele, harder for the ABR-1 since it has less room for intonation. I cheated and used a printout of a Les Paul template- I just lined up the printed strings with where I had my thread from the tuners, and marked it. I did it perfectly, thank the gods!

 

[JohnnyThul]

If it's about placement of the studs, I always used this version and it never failed me so far:
Mark the length of the scale on the guitar bod with a line perpendicular to the centerline of the guitar.
Now mark the location of the studs in this line.
Now put the stud mark of the high e side 3mm (1/8") away from the neck.
Put the stud mark of the low E side 7mm (9/32") away from the neck.

Use masking tape on the body to avoid marks in the surface for this procedure.

When you draw the scale length line on the body, measure twice at least, because that reference is the most important.

 

[toonskeez]

Well I drilled all the holes and installed bridge and tailpiece.
I took my time and measured everything as best I could and it turned out great.
Strings run down the fretboard nice and symmetrical, pretty much same distance from edge of fretboard to each E string.
Also, the strings run straight over the saddles to tailpiece with no off angles.
Intonation is also bang on, with a couple of mm of intonation to spare.

 

[toonskeez]

I bought a 'tap' set to tap the 3.2mm holes for the bridge studs and yes, the studs are M4 X .7 threads.
Neck step will be to route the two humbucker cavities. I find I get best results positioning the pickup cavities when the guitar is strung up, which allows me to make a few pencil marks on body top on either side of each E string. So far so good anyway.

 

[BFcaster]

Yes, routing the pickup spots, I think, is best done towards the end.