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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by joekumpan3, Nov 19, 2014.
This model has a locking screw to turn it into a hard tail.
The locking screw goes through here.
And it is about this thin it just requires enough room for the cam to move about an inch. It could be less if you don't pull up on the bar much. There is a choice of saddle roller materials brass, steel or aluminum for different sustain. There is also a version to mount to gibson tailpiece studs and special inserts that fit Nashville posts. The trem itself has a bit different feel than say a Floyd rose or traditional strat, it is more of a light touch but if it is set up right you can crank the dog snot out of it and it will stay in tune.
Here is the gibson style in gold next to the the flat mount. Notice the front of the flat mount has the two screw holes that are supposed to match up with the fender trem holes and the shape fits the pickguard cut out.
Those are nice whammy bars Also for sustain keep the saddles as high as you can, the break angle makes a big difference.
Yes and I hear if you bend it a little and solder the wrap on the string it really makes it perform flawlessly. Good tip, thanks.
Soldeing the e and b string after bending it slightly is mandatory. Always have some spare soldered up.
Good tip as well! I figure it couldn't hurt the rest of the strings either it just take an extra couple of minutes. Btw love the van halen black pickguard strat in your avatar. Do you have a full size picture of that?
I bought a black neck plate but it has a weird haze to the finish so I am going to try to see what it looks like with black lacquer on this chrome serial numbered neck plate.
The first coat orange peeled pretty bad. My black lacquer has been sitting a while and although I added some fresh lacquer and thinner it looks like it needs to be thinned som more. I sprayed thinner over it a bit to help level it then sanded it lightly.
After two clear coats it looks pretty good I will let it dry then lightly sand and polish it. I didn't lacquer the back because I don't want it to stick to the finish.
I sanded the body as much as I could until I started going through the clear coat a tiny bit. I am having difficulty getting the lacquer that I have been using. If I would have known that it would be a problem I would have bought a bunch.
Anyway time to level the frets. I am going to use the back side of my radius sanding block.
It went pretty well some frets had to come down much more than I would have thought but they have plenty of meat.
I will crown and polish them and hopefully be done really soon with the neck.
I am putting sharpie on the frets before I use the crowning file so I can tell how much is left as I file. The idea is to leave a little line of untouched leveled fret.
Kind of like this. I'm still not that good at this portion of the builds but I'm getting better!
Here is a shot of the dynaguide parts it comes with two different length screws.
It fits together like this and the little bar make the friction happen at the black button instead of at the strings.
router bit for neck
Hey Joe, what bit did you use?
I'm in love with that neck. Love me some hard V.
Thanks for sharing.
A 1/2" shank 45 degree bit with a 5/8" cutting height/width. It was the biggest most reasonable that I could find. I guess you and I are a rare breed most folks seem to really dislike the hard V neck and prefer the soft or U or C. Thanks for the love!