PSA: Wago lever nuts in control cavity

[Ron C]

I'm in the process of changing up my parstcaster (new body, different value pots, different wiring scheme), and wanted to try out the new wiring before the body was ready. The idea of soldering all the grounds, then de-soldering a week or two later when transferring to the new body bugged me.

So I tried some Wago 221 lever nuts (made for house wiring) on the guitar's grounds, and it worked great. I already had the rest of the harness fully soldered, so after doing the grounds with the Wago (2 wires twisted together per hole for the smallest gauges) I just needed to solder the pickups' hot leads to the switch. 5 minutes and done.

I'm not sure I'd do this for a more permanent installation, but everything's working and sounding fine, so I may re-think that. And I'll definitely consider them for future experiments. It's much better than tape or alligator clips.

 

[Mowgli]

I'm in the process of changing up my parstcaster (new body, different value pots, different wiring scheme), and wanted to try out the new wiring before the body was ready. The idea of soldering all the grounds, then de-soldering a week or two later when transferring to the new body bugged me.

So I tried some Wago 221 lever nuts (made for house wiring) on the guitar's grounds, and it worked great. I already had the rest of the harness fully soldered, so after doing the grounds with the Wago (2 wires twisted together per hole for the smallest gauges) I just needed to solder the pickups' hot leads to the switch. 5 minutes and done.

I'm not sure I'd do this for a more permanent installation, but everything's working and sounding fine, so I may re-think that. And I'll definitely consider them for future experiments. It's much better than tape or alligator clips.

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I was wondering if anyone had wired their guitars with these advanced wire nuts.Thanks for the information.

I started using them in my speaker cabs a couple of years ago. So far, no problems.

 

[corliss1]

If they are good enough for 32A of current and 450V they are good enough for the inside of a guitar or speaker cab

 

[Killing Floor]

The lighting systems I design for my day job are in over 25% of professional sports arenas and stadiums in the US and Canada. If one of the hundred thousand control points fails during a prime time championship my bee-hind is in hot water. That’s why I use Wagos. They work. They don’t add noise. They don’t change resistance. They don’t release accidentally. They don’t get hot. And anyone that can hire in any location can just figure them out. I could sell Wago for a living. I sure buy enough of them.

 

[Guerilla Electro]

Another Wago fan here , I use the 221 a lot to test pick-ups , but I've left them permanently in some guitars for 5-6 years now with no problems .
I also use the 222 inside my cabs to quickly re-wire cabs in series /parallel . I also use them outside the cabs to test different cab combinations , so much better than terminal strips .
Also it's really easy to clip a capacitor leg in there to test cap values.

I find heir terminology confusing , Wago 221 have 2 ,3 or 5 levers . You just need to check if they are adapted to the wire gauge you intend to use before ordering/buying . 222 are much bigger but they don't necessary accept larger gauge wire , but they are cheaper than 221s.

221 and 222-415

 

[Ron C]

Also it's really easy to clip a capacitor leg in there to test cap values.

That's a great idea!