PRS hollowbody inspired build v2

Freeman Keller

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I will look into those planes.... not sure I can justify the cost for a good one.

I can do most of the outside convex stuff with ordinary flat soled planes, mostly my old block plane, but the little Ibex plane was perfect for the inside concave work and the recurve on the outside. The other tool that couldn't live without is a good cabinet card scraper. Everything needs to be scary sharp of course.
 

photondev

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Laid out the interior carve.

I am still undecided what to do with the center block, very likely I will remove it except for a block for the bridge and enough to support the neck and the neck pickup
20211231_115830.jpg

I also started removing mass

20211231_161112.jpg
 

photondev

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I bought a new little finger plane when I started on the archtop - made it much easier. However I was also planing spruce which is about the easiest wood there is.
@Freeman Keller - can you please give me your recommendation for a carving plane, that is, if you only bought one, which one would you buy? I want to spend less than $100
 

Freeman Keller

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@Freeman Keller - can you please give me your recommendation for a carving plane, that is, if you only bought one, which one would you buy? I want to spend less than $100

I bought a 36mm Ibex plane from StewMac. LMII sells the 30mm plane but that is the only size. I'm sure you can buy them from Lee Valley and other sources. The 36mm is a nice compromise size that would be good for carving a mandolin or violin, it might be a hair small for doing lots of guitar work.

IMG_7030.JPG


The nice thing about these planes is that the sole is slightly curved so you can do concave carving like the inside of a plate or the recurve, I've struggles with doing that with my flat soled planes.

The Ibex plane came very sharp, I hit it on some 600 grit on my hunk of flat countertop material but you could use it as delievered.
 

Ripthorn

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I think in one of my PRS build threads I either shared or linked to how one could make templates for a dead accurate PRS top carve. I developed the templates while referencing my actual core PRS (only electric guitar I have that I didn't make). Makes it so that you route the steps and then just blend the steps with an RO sander. Makes it pretty quick. For the inside carve, it's much more difficult.
 

photondev

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Meekster,
Check out Bill's most outstanding thread http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/123054-new-member-poplar-tele-build.html for the details/plans.

I think in one of my PRS build threads I either shared or linked to how one could make templates for a dead accurate PRS top carve. I developed the templates while referencing my actual core PRS (only electric guitar I have that I didn't make). Makes it so that you route the steps and then just blend the steps with an RO sander. Makes it pretty quick. For the inside carve, it's much more difficult.

I used the same templates for the outside carves on the back and top, and they work pretty good. The interior carves are really challenging, and a lot of manual work and time. This is the current state on both, there was a router "accident" on the top that almost destroyed it, oh well ...

20220117_171531.jpg

The current weight of both is a little over 4 lbs, I am getting really close.
 

Freeman Keller

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The internal carve is close to being done on both,

next I will continue to work on things that will be much easier to do before I close the box.


I do all the wiring with the back off and mask off the insides of the f-holes and other holes. I have had good luck leaving the entire wiring harness inside with little fish lines running to the appropriate holes. If nothing else practice getting the harness in and out.

I found it very helpful on 335 style guitars to put a terminal strip in the pickup cavities so I wouldn't have to pull the harness in and out to work on pickups.

It looks like your side walls are thick enough but if you feel you need reinforcement for strap buttons or anything now is the time to do it.

Bind the f-holes if you are going to.

And of course glue your maker's label directly below the bass f-hole and sign and date the top
 
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