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Prewired Control Plate - Import 3 way switch Wiring?

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by GrooveVoyager1, Apr 16, 2021.

  1. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks, Kaish 3 way import is currently not available
    Thanks, you explained that clearly.
    I believe the pic I posted of the switch may be reverse of the diagram, or the import switch is set that way???
    e.g. Diagram has Neck wire on lug 2 & 3 on left of the switch
    My pic and switch wiring from factory has neck hot on right lug and bridge hot on left lug.
    Does that mean that in my pic right side is 2 & 3 or did they reverse from factory Control Plate_Repair HB wiring and new solder.jpg ?
    Forgive me if this is asked and answered.
     
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  2. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    They just wired it an alternate way, and I think you should resolder (or just leave) the pickup + leads where they are instead of trying to separate the metal terminals.

    Have you ever "fixed" or "improved" something until it no longer works? That's very easy to do with these cheap switches. :)
     
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  3. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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  4. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    In his previous thread, he was indeed having problems with this setup. This thread is a spin-off. This is the second trip down the same road.

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/glarr...ground-hum-issues-and-then-no-volume.1068742/
     
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  5. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks.

    I don't know what the problem is (I suspect he will find it when he gets in there with his multimeter), but I'll wager that merely changing the wiring scheme on the switch from "factory" to "standard" isn't going fix it.
     
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  6. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    OP's intention is to replace the guts with a pre-wired plate. In the previous thread, myself and others also suggested as an exercise, he completely strip the old plate of wire and solder and rewire it per a good diagram using the same components - preferably upgrading the switch. This would give him good soldering/wiring practice and give him a spare plate to possibly be used in the future.
     
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  7. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Agree, I'm working my way in from the output jack this morning as that is where the ground issues began. I've been speaking to a harness and pre-wired control plate builder and he said that it may be a reversed wire on the jack although I've checked the connections and all looks ok. When I replaced the jack with a new switchcraft 11 I made sure to follow signal path from tip to ground so I'm not sure what's happening. I'll keep posted when able.
     
  8. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'm looking at your photos in this thread and the other one, and now I'm confused. Which picture in this thread shows the wiring as it is now, the one with a yellow neck pickup lead or the one with a red neck pickup lead?

    The red one looks suspicious -- there's too much bare conductor coming off the switch, which can be bad if it touches the switch's housing when you shove the whole assembly into the cavity, and in the photo it looks as though the inner conductor's insulation (also red?:confused:) might be severed, allowing the shield to touch the conductor.

    EDIT: Also, the jack in the photo I'm looking at in the other thread is wired backward. It looked correct to me initially because black is normally ground, but in your guitar the volume pot's output (center lug) to the jack is black, and ground from the volume pot's shell to the jack is red.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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  9. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    I had to walk away from the project for the day. Man, I had a hard time with the desolder and cleaning pot and connections. Anyway, the pics with the red wire coming from the pot(improperly installed by Glarry as ground) and the yellow neck wires are the original wiring.
    I identified a possible cause of the issue and it was the bridge hot white wire connected to the import switch(furthest to the left).
    All I had to do was plug in and check the wires by a little tug to see if there was a loose connection and that was it.
    I unsoldered, cleaned, and resoldered the white bridge hot line plugged in and a thunderous hum noise came out of my amp.
    Should of recorded it for future sound effects... I'm out of time to do any further troubleshooting as I'll be away for a few days but before I go I'll post pics of:
    1) the stock wiring,
    2)a pic of my novice attempt of soldering with the new pups,
    3)the original jack and
    4) the switchcraft replacement.
    Good weekend and thanks to you and all that have given such insightful info. GV
    ps:
    Also, the red wire with the tape on it had bare wire underneath the tape so I trimmed it back and resoldered.
    Edit: The first pic is the newest I got, only change is the red bridge hot was switched to appropriate lug and sent to tip of jack and black ground is now soldered to Volume pot case going to sleeve of output jack.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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  10. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Disregard as I was unable to delete post.
     
  11. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Apologize for the mismatched pics as one contained original wiring and others post upgraded pickup and output jack.
    First of all, thanks for all the info from everyone! I had to walk away from the project as I was going away for a few days and prior to leaving my attempt at the solder cleanup from all the prior work was taking too much time.
    After closely inspecting the original Glarry wiring and sloppy solder job from Glarry and my novice first attempt at soldering, and weighing in cost of upgraded control plate I decided to start fresh with a new tele prewired standard import 3 way switch.
    I had Amazon $$$ so it cost nothing and I really don't want to put any more $$$ into this project.
    The plate size is an exact fit so all I'll have to do is solder the pups, jack, and ground from volume to bridge(although some folks are recommending not needed???).
    Only difference I see is the wire colors(no problem, this time I'll follow diagram).
    On this plate, yellow from volume lug looks like hot to jack and black to ground, and the wires for hot and ground to output jack are 2 separate wires instead of one wire with 2 leads.
    Hopefully with the new pre-wired plate and a more careful solder job I can complete project.
    Sorry for the trouble on the former control plate wiring and thanks again for all the advice as it will come in handy with the new installation of CP.
     
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  12. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    Good luck with the new plate. Save the old components and hardware; they may come in handy someday.

    If your bridge pickup's base plate grounds the bridge it's not necessary, but it won't hurt anything if you choose to use it.
     
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  13. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    I'm getting ready to solder connections for pre-wired import 3 way switch I got and have researched the pickup ground connections and there seems to be some variance of pup connections to switch.
    On one video I watched, the ground wires of each pup are connected to the side lugs of the switch casing(not the 8 lugs).
    On a few other videos, the ground wires for each pup are soldered to the volume pot after they are connected together.
    Is either way a proper connection?
    I've attached an example of the wiring with the pup ground wires soldered to the outside lugs of the switch casing.
    This is the type of switch I have. Thanks in advance for any guidance. Import switch closeup example.jpg
     
  14. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    Either way will work. If you choose to attach them to the switch, shorten those bare shields before soldering them so there's no chance that they might touch the terminals.
     
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  15. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks LB! I noticed on the example from the YT video pic I posted that the wires were a bit long and weren't trimmed.
    I like the simplicity of the soldering from the video where the photo came from, ground soldered to casing of switch rather than to the vpot, especially after I botched the soldering from the volume pot on the original switch on the control plate I'm replacing. This time I'll be super careful w/my solder technique.
    Hope all goes well with the new switch and I can get the guitar up and running for a test drive today.
    I'll update when able.
     
  16. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    Ah... I thought it was yours.

    If your switch is exactly like the one in the photo, with no metal lugs coming off it, be careful not to overheat the contacts. A pointy pencil tip on your iron will do.
     
  17. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    haha! I copied and pasted the pic that was from an installation video of a very similar control plate and 3 way switch. The guy did a good job, better than me as I don't know how to even post a video to youtube lol.
    Thanks for that handy tip on the solder contacts.
    This time around, I carefully soldered all the connections and before closing everything up I plugged in and neck pup worked fine but bridge had no volume.
    I inspected the bridge to contacts solder and it looked a little janky so I redid solder tested, and plugged in and both pups were fine, even with the 250k/import 3 way switch setup.
    My pups are HB sized A5 p-90's in the neck and a Wilkinson Nashville Low Gauss Ceramic SC in the bridge.
    It may sound like a wacky combo to some but I wanted the guitar to have a different sound than any of my other guitars. And it definitely does.
    If anything goes sideways on the import control plate down the road I can always consider a control plate with upgrade components, harness, or maybe replace a pot, cap or switch, but for my first project and what I already have in it I'm pleased with the results.
    Thanks again to you and the other TD members for all the support
     
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  18. Sax-son

    Sax-son Tele-Holic

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    Get rid of that import garbage. They will do in a pinch, but you can build your own harness using quality CTS pots, CRL switch or similar for next to nothing. Don't waste your time on cheap electronics.
     
  19. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    I contemplated an upgrade control plate, for example: queens standard, and even a harness but I put the kibosh on that idea seeing that I already had too much $$$ in the Glarry. Also, sellers couldn't guarantee that even the switch(920D Custom CTS 450G) would fit in the Glarry compartment due to lack of depth space in the cavity. I wasn't about to rough out space for the switch alone. Even if I were to have built a harness with quality components not even sure those pots were to fit the Import CP without boring out the pot/cap holes. For my purposes the import cp is working out just fine. Perhaps on a future project the upgrade electronics may be considered.
     
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