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Prewired Control Plate - Import 3 way switch Wiring?

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by GrooveVoyager1, Apr 16, 2021.

  1. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Good morning, I'm working on a Glarry Thinline Project(HB/SC) and ran into a ground snag after replacing new output jack. I finally got a meter shipped so I can hopefully test circuits today and locate the issue.
    In the meantime I was inspecting the stock Glarry Control Plate wiring and it looks different than the standard 3 way import setup diagram.
    The factory wiring was a mess with reversed color red, taped and used as ground, and other oddities.
    Thanks to tdpri members for all the great suggestions, including removing, cleaning up solder joints and then re-soldering connection.
    Before going any further with solder clean up and re-soldering to specs I'd like to get advice on the standard 3 way import diagram as it looks like the red, white and yellow wires are each connected to 2 lugs on the import switch(diagram included).
    White(Neck)-2 & 3
    Red from Volume Pot to 4 & 5
    Yellow(Bridge)-1 & 2
    This is my first project so I'm not sure how to make this solder connection.
    From the standard 3 way import diagram it looks like the same wire to 2 lugs but on Glarry's original wiring it's a mess and I cant make head or tails of it???
    Any guidance would be helpful if anyone has worked on a 3 way Import.
    ps: I've included the Standard 3 Way Import Diagram,(2 pics) and a pic of the original wiring from Glarry before any modifications.
    Best regards, GV
    Tele Template Import2 Wiring.jpg Tele_Template_Import2_3.jpg Control Plate 2_Pre install_4_2.jpg
     
  2. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Don't waste your time staring at a mess and trying to make sense of it.

    These switches are typically shipped with the uninsulated jumper wires installed. They are SHORT pieces of wire between adjacent lugs. The wiring diagram you have is correct. You solder your neck to lugs 2/3, the bridge to 6/7, the output to pot to 4/5. The diagram is confusing in the way they have the lugs numbered. I just number them 1-8. In this type of switch, the lever always points to the lug activated. This is opposite of standard American 3-way switches.

    This is a picture of a properly-wired Kaish HD switch, which is wired identically. It is a better switch, but that is immaterial. On this switch, the jumpers are not wire, but are actually continuous one-piece metal. In this picture, the white wire is neck output, the yellow wire bridge output, the red wire is output to V pot. The black ground is attached to the body lug out of view.

    20200607_121711.jpg


    As I mentioned before, remove all of the wires (leaving the jumpers), remove as much solder as possible, solder neck output (regardless of color) to 2/3, output to pot to 4/5, solder bridge (regardless of color) to 6/7. Done.

    The output from your pickup will be a colored wire, the ground will typically be black. This is why I suggested a colored hookup wire earlier in addition to just white and black. But color doesn't really matter if you can keep the leads straight in your head.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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  3. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

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    .

    There is a lot of solder on the switch terminals.
    Make sure you don't have any bridging of solder or fine wire strands touching something else than they should.

    That switch wiring diagram looks incorrect.

    I'd expect more of this kind of switch wiring layout (Strat was easy to grab, you'll have a couple fewer terminals on a Tele, but you can see the trend).
    See how the pickups come in on one 'end' of the switch and the tones on the other 'end'? That is more how I expect the import switches to work. However, there are a few variations out there (Ibanez RG series is a popular re-design).
    Traditional Fender 3/5-way switches have a wafer with two sets of solder tabs on each side rather than lined up end to end like the import switches.

    [​IMG]
    .
     
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  4. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    No offense, but this is just confusing the issue. A 5-way switch has the jumpers removed except the output. We are trying to walk the OP through an import 3-way switch problem. I believe he wishes to stay with a 3-way switch.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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  5. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the simple clarification and the photo!
    It looks like your white wire is connected to lug 2 and attached to lug 3 and a touch of solder to secure?
    And so on for the other connections. I got all of my de-solder supplies late yesterday, including my meter so I'm in much better shape to continue project and re-wiring. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for the technical help. First time project can get a bit overwhelming lol.
     
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  6. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    I can't see what's going on perfectly, but...

    From left to right, lugs 1-2 and lugs 7-8 appear to be bent together. If you try to separate them, you risk damaging their contacts, so leave them that way and re-solder, but note that the bridge pickup + goes to lugs 1-2, and the neck pickup + goes to 7-8.

    I'd remove the black jumper wire from the switch and just connect lugs 4 and 5 to the volume pot's input. 3 and 6 don't need to be connected to anything.

    The yellow wire running from the switch to the tone pot looks like a ground. You can either keep or get rid of that -- the plate will ground the switch housing. At the other end of the switch, the black wire appears to be the bridge pickup -, so you should keep that where it is or ground it somewhere else.
     
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  7. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/kaish-heavy-duty-3-way-guitar-pickup-lever-switch.1029317/
    The white wire is soldered to lug 2, which is jumpered to lug 3 via manufacturer's jumper. There is a little solder slop onto the jumper. Lugs 4/5 and 6/7 are also jumpered from the switch manufacturer. Lugs 1 and 8 are not jumpered. See picture. Yours is the same, but the jumpers are wire instead of solid.

    2020-06-07_10h49_46.jpg

    If you use a tinned iron tip (preferably a chisel tip), pre-tinned lug, and pre-tinned wire, a touch of solder is all you need. Anything more just invites a cold solder joint. the KEY is to bring wire, lug, and solder up to the same temperature using the tinned iron. You will see all components flow together when that temp is reached. Remove iron and DON"T MOVE ANYTHING for at least 10 seconds, allowing everything to cool as one piece.

    Sold(i)er on!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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  8. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    Super info! Thanks.
     
  9. CCK1

    CCK1 Tele-Meister

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    I went through this same process with a Squier Telecaster that I turned into an Esquire. I think I saved myself some trouble, both now and down the road by replacing the import switch with a CRL. Easier to wire, and certainly feels more solid when moving through the switch position.
     
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  10. Telekarster

    Telekarster Tele-Afflicted

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    Just my 2 cents here but if it were my guitar I'd be rewiring the whole thing, 60/40 solder, using pushback as much as possible, and replace the switch with a CRL 5 position. Fender PN 0991367000. I'd probably replace the cap too..., but again that's just me. Good luck with your project! Keep us posted!
     
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  11. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Agree. This thread is a continuation of THIS thread, in which all of this was discussed.

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/glarr...ground-hum-issues-and-then-no-volume.1068742/
     
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  12. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Not a bad idea. Or the HD Kaish import. All are better than the standard import switch. Just beware that sometimes the cavity needs to be deepened to allow for the CRL/Oak style switch.
     
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  13. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    See edits.
     
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  14. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    This is all good advice -- for that switch, and for his diagram. But his switch is wired differently, using 1-2 and 7-8 for the pickup + leads instead of 2-3 and 6-7 (plenty of import switches are factory-wired this way).

    He should keep it that way because the factory guy bent the terminals to make his job easier (I've done that). Trying to straighten them out just to adhere to the "standard" diagram isn't necessary, and may loosen or break the contacts (I've done that, too :().
     
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  15. CCK1

    CCK1 Tele-Meister

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    Good point! Mine was close... real close, but I didn't have to break out the Dremel or router.
     
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  16. GrooveVoyager1

    GrooveVoyager1 TDPRI Member

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    One quick question. Is the numbering of the original wiring on the switch(photo attached) from left to right correspond with the diagram or is it reversed in the photo? Looks like neck pup wiring is on right(diagram it's on left)
    Also, I just spotted that there's a lug on each side of the switch.
    Left side lug: Black ground from Bridge pup
    Right side lug: Yellow to tone pot
    What do you make of this? Control Plate Wiring_001.jpg
     
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  17. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    It is more of an issue if you have shielding installed in the cavity, unless you take great care to insulate the lugs on the switch.
     
  18. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    I covered all of this in my posts above. Ignore the diagram, except for connecting 4 and 5 to the volume pot.
     
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  19. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    With THIS type of switch it doesn't matter. But it usually makes it easier visually to align the switch like the diagram you are using. The key is, on these switches, the shaft of the switch will always point toward the pickup attached to that lug. IMO, the numbering on your diagram is confusing, as it has duplicate 1/2/3 lugs on either end. Just imagine your numbering is like the KAISH switch I have pictured above. 1-8. Call 1 the neck end and 8 the bridge end by convention. The shaft should point toward 1 (neck) if you want to isolate the neck pup.
     
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  20. Boreas

    Boreas Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    OP, I am going to back out of the discussion because we are getting too many cooks in the kitchen. If you want to ask me any more questions, just message me. The thread is going round in circles - confusing everyone.

    I would suggest in the future you don't start a new thread unless it is totally unrelated. This is how members see each new thread, and assume it is a new issue. Just kinda how we roll...
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
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