Press a button and out pops a guitar build.

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Sep 12, 2019.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Today I sanded the machined radius into the neck with the radius beam 80-120-220. I mounted the neck with the 4 neck ferrules and had to cut down some neck screws so they wouldn't come out the fretboard side. I had to tap the pickup mounting frames for a 6-32 hole as they were designed for surface mounting with wood screws. Pickguard holes got drilled and countersunk. I'll probably go up to Fender size pickguard screws. I guess the next thing is to drill for the bridge and tailpiece or fret the neck. We'll see what tomorrow brings if anything.
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  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Today I pressed the frets in and beveled the ends of them. I drilled the pickguard for the switch. Put in some F sized pickguard screws.


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  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I got the bridge and tailpiece on as well as the tuners. I made a dog bone nut. Looks like the strap button holes and maybe 3d print some knobs and this will be ready for the IGPA museum mobile tour.

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  4. ping-ping-clicka

    ping-ping-clicka Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Press a button and out pops a knob. This was an experiment just to see what would materialize......


    knob1.jpg
     
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  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I put the rest of the parts in place and stuck on some NOS Dakaware knobs until something better comes along. The last thing that needs to happen sooner than later, is to cut a nut and put some strings on.


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  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Group photo

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  8. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I'll take all 3 to go please... :)

    Awesome as always Marty.
     
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  9. ping-ping-clicka

    ping-ping-clicka Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    oh! that is a beauty , yes, that's what I'talking about. A masterpiece is understated elegance. So nice to encounter one with such focused attention to detail. There's no gilding the lily here.
     
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  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I don't know about all that, but thanks...:)
     
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  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I filed some nut slots and put a set of strings on. I stuck a couple cereal box shims under the end of the neck. At this point I can either recess the bridge bushings, use shims, or probably what I'll do, is cnc a 1 degree angle when I cut the neck pocket on the next one. A couple saddle screw springs need to get cut a bit so two of them can go back a hair more. They are a couple cents off right now. The 8 degree peghead angle puts enough pressure on the nut, so I'll keep that change. All in all I'm liking this one over the last one. I will redo a pickguard for mini humbuckers...these are wider than what I hoped they would be, but I kind of like the look of them. The threaded saddles add a little adjustability that the last bridge didn't have, so that'll stay too.


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    Last edited: May 22, 2020
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  12. ping-ping-clicka

    ping-ping-clicka Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    talent and humility a fine combination of attributes. I really do like that guitar.
     
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  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    So since our last update I decided to make another neck. This time I opted to use a genuine mahogany short I had. I did the 8 degree angle like the other one with the splice joint. That joint at that angle is kind of growing on me. This time I used the X carve to make the fretboard. It is a piece of quartersawn walnut left over from a couple steel string sets I resawed for parlor acoustics. It was about 3/8" thick and about 8"wide. I cut 3 fretboards out of it instead of it just sitting around here doing nothing.


    The last rosewood fretboard I did on the K2cnc along with the neck. This time I wanted to try out the x carve. The first practice fretboard, which was too thin to use for a good neck, got messed up when a Microsoft update window screwed up the communication to the X controller. This is a sore spot with a laptop. I think I have everything updated now and turned off the wifi.

    The walnut fretboard got cut in 3 steps. Radius, Fretslot scribing, and drilling and tapering. I added one pass to that set of g code to rout along the right side edge parallel to the centerline of the fretboard. That edge would be perpendicular to the frets and I'd have a square edge to place against the stewmac fretslot system.


    mahog1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2020
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  14. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I redid the back carve in Rhino to add 1/32" of thickness at the nut. The back carve now included buzzing down the heel thickness, which before I left untouched. The carve was done on the K2. That came out nice as well. I used the pdf of the peghead glued on for the peghead and drilled on the drill press and cut and sanded to the lines as I've shown before. This is simple and effective. I should probably set up a jig to rout and drill that down the road.

    I routed for a blue one way import rod again on the router table, I figured I'd use them up. I wish it was about 1/8" shorter as it peeks out at the nut.

    The fretboard met the neck with the brad and caul process which I've shown a lot. Here's the back carve with the heel mill marks still showing.


    mahog2.jpg


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  15. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Here is the thicker neck carve model. I decided to skip the fretboard part on the model, so this is just the neck shaft and peghead. In the CAM program, you can determine which part you want to machine out of the drawing, so I just made the parts that were carved with a round nose bit the portion to be cut for the shaft and added the heel to the mix. I didn't bother with a perimeter cut and it came out pretty clean on the sides of the heel .


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    Last edited: Jun 7, 2020
  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Here is the fretboard model and the fret lines that get scribed. It's a 12" radius that you can't really see from the isometric angle here.

    fretboard and scribe lines.JPG
     
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  17. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I REALLY like this guitar son :)
     
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  18. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Hello, Marty. I'm really loving the CAD CAM work you are doing in Rhino. I just watched the Rickenbacker factory tour yesterday, and I had an idea when I saw you CAD for this neck. If you add tabs with holes to index pin, yo could do a flat and flip and also carve to top side of the neck with the truss rod groove. Peavey and Rickenbacker have used index holes and pins for their necks for many years on the CNC cuts, also to lock the fretboard in place at assembly. Just an idea.
     
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  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    shellac on mahogany neck with walnut fretboard.


    neck2.jpg

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  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    This is why one should buy a cnc router. This is the beauty of CNC. I buzzed out another walnut fretboard in under 30 minutes. I used the last set of gcode and just added one more pass on the tapering to go a bit lower than I had it last time. It's just a cut and paste of text in a text editor on the computer. That little blip at the end is operator error outside the fretboard area.
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