Have you tried it behind a clear lens?
Practical tips for adding LED rate indication to trem circuit?
- Thread starter King Fan
- Start date
Hmm, yeah, clear lens might just work. But although I long ago gave up on 'jewel light aesthetics', I do like red; a clear lens might be a style stretch. If I have one in my stash, I'll test it. Heh, an even bigger worry would be a 'pink pulse'. 
Or do you mean replace the actual lamp bulb with the LED inside a clear lens? That wouldn't be evil to at least try. I'd have to look at space and think about the heater wiring (or maybe it doesn't change?)
Or do you mean replace the actual lamp bulb with the LED inside a clear lens? That wouldn't be evil to at least try. I'd have to look at space and think about the heater wiring (or maybe it doesn't change?)
I was saying a clear lens with the red LED. Although a clear LED behind the red lens could be brighter too
sds1
Friend of Leo's
I got it working once by letting the oscillating waveform switch a transistor on and off. The LED is switched by the transistor.
Details and schematic here:
www.tdpri.com
Details and schematic here:
BUILD: Micro-Style With MOSFET Tremolo & Boost
A friend asked me to build him a small amp. I've been looking forward to a Micro build, after considering my friend's requirements and some ideas of my own, we arrived at a design with the following: - Micro Bassman PP power amp and phase inverter using 12BH7 for output - solid state rectifier...
Aha, got it, thank you. I don't mind drilling a little hole in the faceplate on my (clone) 6G2 and PR, but the 5G9 is stainless, and the VibroChamp is vintage, so it'd be handy / important to avoid surgery in those.
My limited understanding is that different color LEDs have different electrical properties; I'll have to read up on white.
Or maybe red behind a red lens? This is with bigger brighter automotive LED brake lights, but they found red thru red was much brighter *and* much redder than white through red.
www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk
Red or White LED bulb behind a Red Lens? (with video demonstration)
Welcome to the next instalment of ABD TV where we aim to answer all of those burning questions, clear up the confusion and leave you brimming with In this episode we’re tackling a common question we get asked: Is a coloured LED bulb or a white LED bulb is better behind a coloured lens? This is a...
www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk
Different colors usually have different mA draws and slightly different voltages to get the peak brightness. They are all pretty darn close though - we're talking tenths of volts on the datasheet.
Bill Moore
Tele-Afflicted
I'm curious what you end up with, I have a stash of "super bright" LEDs I use in pedal projects, but don't know the specs. They are bright! (I modded a wah pedal for a friend, and added a "super bright" blue indicator, he made me change it for a standard red, said it was too distracting!)
Thanks. Now I’m curious too. I’m experimenting with my current red LED behind the red lens in the VibroChamp… really red, but not too bright. I mean literally.
I may look into “super bright” LEDs. No doubt that’s where the intensity (mcd) spec mentioned by @andrewRneumann comes in. I need to find a good online source with lots of 'electronics’ types, full specs, and cheap shipping. Then I’ve got to figure out *all* the different types I might want to try. And *then* I’ve either gotta figure out how to solder to those cat whiskers, or source LED types with pre-installed leads. Those Dialcos are starting to appeal even more.
Snfoilhat
Tele-Afflicted
Can you remove the bulb from the pilot light and just let the new LED live behind the jewel, or are there times the amp may be running but the LED isn’t illuminated?
Right, I had assumed the bulb was out already. Is it not?
Good questions. So far, the LED is 'always on' so it *should* work as a pilot light. And, yeah, when the way-too-easy idea of 'shine the LED into the gap between bulb and lens' didn't work, I removed the bulb. Awkward fit still, but I'm working on it.
When I get some brighter LEDs I'm gonna then figure out how to hold them so they're centered and well advanced up behind the lens. Right now I'm picturing a high-tech method that might be called 'toilet roll of electrical tape.'
Bill Moore
Tele-Afflicted
Another option is to use a 53 or 55 bulbs that are shorter than the 47.
JuneauMike
Poster Extraordinaire
So something I haven't seen mentioned here: Pedal guys know LEDs because they work with them all the time. Here's how a PedalPCB modulation pedal called "Mesmerizer" handles the pulsating LED:
(Remember, transistors function similar to tubes.) This looks to me like the 2-color common cathode LED is being treated like a hot potato, indicating a passed signal from one IC to the next though each anode. Red/green/red/green, and so on.
Anyway, maybe there's some inspiration over in that side of the world.
(Remember, transistors function similar to tubes.) This looks to me like the 2-color common cathode LED is being treated like a hot potato, indicating a passed signal from one IC to the next though each anode. Red/green/red/green, and so on.
Anyway, maybe there's some inspiration over in that side of the world.
Bill Moore
Tele-Afflicted
In that same vein, Monte Allums uses a 2 color LED to show what the delay rate is when the effect is off, and another color when on.
Cool. I didn't even know about those. I may look into sourcing some, cuz I did notice that you can back the lamp assembly away from the chassis/lens a few mm if you put some spacers/washers on the bayonet bushing, inside, under the big awkward nut. Maybe the combo of a shorter bulb and some spacing washers would give me room for LED access.
Bill Moore
Tele-Afflicted
A 53 is quite a bit shorter!
Edit, just installed one in a lamp assy. Still no room! Could cut the lamp holder and tack a spacer in the middle, but maybe using a couple of LED's side by side instead is the way to go.
Edit, just installed one in a lamp assy. Still no room! Could cut the lamp holder and tack a spacer in the middle, but maybe using a couple of LED's side by side instead is the way to go.
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Thanks!!! Yeah, I was impressed that sliding back the light assembly didn't help much either. And it's complicated, especially on the VibroChamp -- I'm reluctant to try any excessive jury rigging on a vintage amp...
I wouldn't bother with the vintage amp. I'd make a separate hole for the LED on the custom builds.
