Plexi 50 done!

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by JohnnyCrash, Mar 20, 2009.

  1. Scotty Lonesome

    Scotty Lonesome Tele-Holic

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    Re-tolex? Go ahead, but you'll go to hell if you do! :) (well, IF you must, how about "british racing green" or a nice purple?)
    Go ahead and get this done up nice, then store it away, and base all of your future builds on this. I'm gonna save all the posts so in 20 years from now I can say I knew the guy who founded Crash amps before he even had his business going.
    :)
    Scotty.
    P.S. I don't usually have time to help small businesses, but I'll make an exception here. If you need to send out a few prototypes for testing, sigh, go ahead and send me one - I'll make the time to test (it'll be hard, but I'll do it).
     
  2. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash Doctor of Teleocity

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    It's easy for you guys to say - you don't have to gig with it! HAHA

    I'll think about if for a good while before doing anything rash... man I hate puns, especially when I say em :)

    I may just go to a sign shop or hit Amplates.com.
     
  3. muchxs

    muchxs Doctor of Teleocity

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    Don't worry, one more day with this cold and I'm changin' my handle to "Mucus"... :D
     
  4. GUITARmole

    GUITARmole Tele-Afflicted

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    I have a 100W plexi I loosely built to '67 specs that I covered with orange levant. I also wouldn't hesitate to gig with it anywhere (your taste in music and fashion might and probably does vary from mine ;) )

    I absolutely love the orange color and am planning on building a matching 2x12 with wheat grillcloth!

    What I find way more offensive visually than the orange color is the faceplate font, the toggle switches, and the input jacks. They all scream "fake Marshall". Not that I'm saying fake Marshalls are bad...or that I'm saying you should make it look 100% accurate...it's just that those things take away significantly from the "vibe" because they're so visually innacurate to a vintage Marshall.

    I'd personally leave the cap on the 2nd input alone and instead add a switch to change between shared cathode (jtm45 - super bass) and split cathode (69+ super lead) input on input 1. The 330uF sounds good in split cathode mode when you jumper the channels and aside from that who plugs into the 2nd input anyway!!? Split cathode sounds great with humbuckers...shared cathode with single coil guitars.
     
  5. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash Doctor of Teleocity

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    Didn't mean to offend you nor to make an exact replica. I wanted to make a cheap plexi.

    Hearing this thing makes me think the vibe is already solidly in there and aint no ugly cab/faceplates gonna take that away from its vibe/tone. The sound is just incredible.

    If I cared about looks I would've ditched the orange rough tolex (it's hard to see in the photos, but it's not levant it's rough tolex ala Fender Brown texture)... if I cared about authentic I would'a spent at least $500-$600 more than I did. All I cared about was getting that crushing plexi tone for dirt cheap... the plexi vibe oozes out of the speakers, so the ugly old rest of her I don't mind :)

    Your right though, she is ugly... there's no debating that :)

    As far as the faceplates I generally stick with who I get the chassis from, just to ensure good fit. I have a Ceriatone on my Vox AC30 clone (using a 36w chassis/faceplate and Mojo smallbox cab), a crappy Weber from a kit, and this one - a Mojo. The Mojo has something a little "off" in it's color. The font is as huge and clumsy as the Weber. The Weber is pure garbage crap and chips badly when drilled. The Ceriatone looks much nicer than both (in both color and font).





    I think I'm leaving it with the Bass (330uF)/Lead (0.68uF) split cathodes - I like both channels one their own, and I really like jumpering them for a tad of subsonic bottom end. The 330uF is a mite dark for me sometimes - I use Les Pauls and Les Paul Juniors mostly, but might be great for Bass or Teles. I grew up on JCM800's and they were Lead/High Treble channel from the bottom up (2.7k + 0.68uF) so maybe I'm used to that sound. In any case, stubborn preferences of my youth aside, I can go very bright to very dark if they stay split and I can blend in bottom when jumpered - so max utility seems best served by leaving them split.

    Have yet to try my '51 P-Bass through the amp, but I can tell my girlfriend was imagining plugging her Jazz Bass into it...
     
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