Plans needed for double kill switch

Discussion in 'The Stomp Box' started by guitarzan13, Mar 24, 2014.

  1. guitarzan13

    guitarzan13 Friend of Leo's

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    I hope that y'all can help me out. I need to build a kill box for my son. One with 2 inputs and two outs with LEDs.
    This will be used to kill click and loop backing tracks from a laptop. He is our drummer at church and needs to be able to control what is fed to the soundboard. Some of our click tracks have a backing track... and if we change keys he needs to be able to kill the loop himself and not have to depend on the sound person to mute the track. At the moment the stereo signal is split into 2 mono 1/4 plugs that go to DI boxes. This device would go before the DIs... That make sense?:?:

    The box needs two mono ins and outs... two stomp switches and leds...

    Any ideas on how to go about making such a device??
     
  2. codamedia

    codamedia Friend of Leo's

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    First - think of this as a "single" (not a double) kill switch and figure it out that way. Once you know how to build a single - build it twice and house it in the same box.

    As for building a single on/off with an LED. This is how I would approach it.

    1/4" input
    1/4" output
    On/Off switch - DPDT (double pole, double throw).
    4.7K Resistor
    1M - 2M Resistor (optional)


    Using one side of the DPDT switch - wire up a basic kill button. DO NOT do this by opening and closing the HOT circuit (common mistake) - you do this by shunting the hot circuit to ground. If you get pops/clicks, add a 1M - 2M resistor between your hot & ground.

    On the other side of the DPDT you wire up your LED's to a 9Volt Battery and use the switch to interrupt the HOT line. A 9 volt is too much power for an LED (it will blow it immediately) so I would normally use a 4.7K resistor before the LED to lower the voltage. It doesn't have to be that large, I think you can go as low as a 2K but I never do - so I am not positive.

    Wire it up so the switch turns on the LED at the same time it allows the signal to pass. Keep in mind the LED circuit and the Kill Switch are actually independent using separate sides of the DPDT switch. If the battery dies the LED might not come on, but the ON/OFF still works since it is completely passive.

    Once you build one of those, duplicate it for the other one. When housed in the same box - you can use the single 9 Volt to power both LED's. Just make sure you put a separate 4.7K resistor on each LED.

    Others may have a nicer, more elaborate setup. I'm just letting you know how I would approach it - which is a very, very simple setup and easy to build.
     
  3. guitarzan13

    guitarzan13 Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks! Sounds good.... do you by any chance know of a schematic? I'll also use a 9 volt boss type adapter
     
  4. codamedia

    codamedia Friend of Leo's

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    I don't - but there are a lot of schematics for KILL SWITCHES, A/B Boxes and such on line. If you think in terms of separating each section - any of those will get you going ....

    Maybe someone here will have a schematic to share.

    As for the power supply - that is not an issue at all. It would wire up like the 9 volt. I'm not sure you need a power supply though (IMO). A 9 volt battery will last for ages when it is only powering a couple LED's. Change it when you change the ones in your smoke alarm - LOL!
     
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