Pinecaster Pine Tele Body Finishing prefer oil or stain and wipe on

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by claytushaywood, May 7, 2021.

  1. claytushaywood

    claytushaywood Tele-Meister

    May 12, 2010
    I’ve been searching forever. There are so many conflicts of opinion and tidbits of info but no full process with pics.

    I have a nice looking pine tele body I ended up getting for free. Not too many knots. 2 pieces. Doesn’t look awful

    I’d really like to try my hand at finishing it without spraying lacquer out of a can or doing a clear wipe on poly.

    I’d like to stain it (I’ve seen use soft wood conditioner then stain then an oil of sorts)

    I’ve seen grain fill- soft wood conditioner then dyed oil

    Or just grain fill and dye your oil.
    Is there a book I could bye on finishing in oils. There seems to be very little content about pine. I don’t care about perfect I don’t care about protection other than from air and water.

    If you got a process I’d love ya. Cuz I’m about to go ask ace hardware

    Also anyone got a book recommendation on oil finishing guitars in general. Loving these grain filled satin stain bursts. So cool. I don’t mind buying books or reading huge amounts of websites I’d prefer not too spend a ton wasting materials.

    I have a bottle of old amber shellac (like 3 years old). I tested it on a piece of maple not even really sanded well and it dried hard great and fine.

    I’d really like to color some grain darker with grain filer or however and do a transparent sort of stain or dye in either blue with black grains or green or anything really. Or amber red and lemon dyed tru oil.

    probablu gona do a roasted maple neck maybe with an ebony board so maybe something like that?

    seems like stewmacs books and page are all geared towArds spraying so he can make the most

    thanks again for the help!

    I promise a full photo logged step by step instructional report and at least two follow ups on my second and third and what I learned for futures like me. Do it for the forum!
  2. El Tele Lobo

    El Tele Lobo Poster Extraordinaire

    Oct 21, 2014
    I've done several pinecasters with Tru-Oil. You can probably find some threads in here by many people (myself included) who detail their processes/approach with Tru-Oil and other wipe-on finishes. That's where I got most of my info. In the end though, I would recommend getting some scrap and practicing so you learn how it works and also experiment with different applicators (from gun-cleaning pads to paper towel to an old T-shirt to your finger...just to name a few favorites I've seen and heard about over the years). Tru-Oil and products like it goes on oily but starts setting up about 30 seconds or you have to work fast. I (and most others) recommend applying thin coats and spreading it quickly, going with the grain, and getting it down and evened out as fast as possible and then...the hardest part...leave it the heck alone! Messing with it after it sets up will only make things worse. Some issues and blemishes will hide/resolve with subsequent coats...others will get "encased"...this is particularly true of sanding marks...which become "witness lines" buried in future coats. This is because, unlike shellac or lacquer, Tru-Oil does not melt into previous coats. Subsequent coats build or "stack" on top of previous ones.

    Like most things with woodworking/finishing, good sanding/prep work is essential. Also, you want to have a good process for leveling/wet-sanding between every 5 coats or so. It has to be GENTLE and light as the coats are very thin and you don't want to just undo all your work. You also want to wet-sand WITH the if you do have some witness lines, they will hopefully blend in/be hidden by the grain.

    Tru-Oil is kind of a "take your time/hurry up" kind of finish. You have to move when applying it, but you also have to be deliberate enough to not create blemishes and to spread it evenly.

    I recommend doing a search here as well as on YouTube. You'll find plenty of stuff. I have done some videos on my channel (you'll find links in some of my threads or PM me) about it also. I'm by no means the best...more of a novice, but I got pretty excellent results on several builds with it. Like all finishes...the more time you take with it and the more you practice, the better you'll get. Good luck.
  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

    Aug 22, 2018
    I've built four guitars out of old barn pine wood (ponderosa). I finished two with nitro and two with TruOil. Nitro is my preferred finish for everything I make but the TruOil is fine for these guitars. Many thin coats (maybe 30 or more), a month or more of cure time, light sanding to 2000 and buff with medium compound. It seems to fit the funky nature of the wood


    My pine did not need pore filling and I did not do any staining before applying the gun stock oil. As with any new finishing project practice whatever you plan to do on scraps of your wood using your products.
    Urshurak776 likes this.
  4. Milspec

    Milspec Poster Extraordinaire

    Feb 15, 2016
    tele 003.jpg

    Nitro and carnuba wax
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