Pickup Winder Build Questions

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Potatocaster, Jul 30, 2019.

  1. Potatocaster

    Potatocaster Tele-Meister

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    Hi folks,

    I'm trying to source parts to build a pickup winder, and I wanted to make sure I'm on the right path. I've tried to read and find as much as I can on the forum, but I'm at the point I need to confirm stuff and I don't want to post on six year old threads.

    Currently, I'm wanting a simple winder so I can build coils with some ease. I was thinking a sewing machine motor, combined with a red lion cub counter, a reed sensor, and a router controller for speed would be the best I could start with affordably. I know I'll also need a gear and a pulley to connect the winder and the motor, and some manner of mechanism to mount it all in a box.

    Would the below parts be a useful start for this type of project? I've been reading through threads, but most of them are older and the parts referenced in some cases I can't find:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  3. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    I was gonna suggest a lathe too... in the long run, it will cost less.. and the most important thing about the winder, it the bobbin is balanced as it spins.... otherwise the wire gets thrown around as its getting wound... the lathe gets ya 80% of the way there...


    rk
     
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  4. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    that penPal lathe looks pretty sweet.. with a 5.5 inch swing over the bed there's plenty or room too, and with a bearing tail stock you can make a well balanced machine....

    show us how ya setup the counter, etc..

    rk
     
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  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  6. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

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    .

    I have been building a winder. I started with a junked 'modern' sewing machine (all plastic type), but the motor was good and the foot controller was good. Don't tear up any of the working all-steel machines from the 1930s through early 60s as those actually will outlast a couple of generations of sewers yet, while the new ones barely last fixing a couple of pants.

    Start and stop torques are important -- drill motors seem to move too fast and break the wire (I started there, broke a lot of wire).

    I have seen amazon/ebay sewing motors for $15 so you can start there.

    At the beginning I'm not worried about the counter -- most of the 50s famous pickups were wound until "the bobbin was nearly full", and yes inconsistent (you can measure kohms after winding though). But the main point is don't fret about the counter (the hardest part) right now. Just build the machine.

    Find a family member with a working sewing machine and ask them to show you how they 'wind a bobbin' in it. Then watch how the thread automagically lays down in nice coils from side to side when the tension is right.

    Rob D on the forum has posted that you need to use a 4-40 threaded screw at the center with a nut and use that to hold the bobbin on. I bought a box of each off Mcmaster-car. Rob D said before the bolt he tried all kinds of tape and safety shields for when the bobbin flies off and the screw was the best solution.

    Your router controller should work (I've thought of doing that too), I opened the foot pedal on what I have and figured out the little speed control adjuster so the motor tops out at 2-3,000 rpms which is the top target range for most winding, and I can cut that back further if I need to. I had started with the sewing machine main shaft but the pulley ratios knocked the 6,000 rpm motor top end down to 600 main shaft rpm and thought I needed a little more speed. Seymour Duncan apparently started by winding on a 78rpm record player but that took a long time.

    I'm avoiding any belts and additional mechanisms -- going with direct mount on the motor shaft.

    .
     
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  7. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    sorry I thought that was one he built... is that a magnetic sensor?

    r
     
  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    yep
     
  9. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    that kinda limits your speed doesn't it?

    r
     
  10. Potatocaster

    Potatocaster Tele-Meister

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    If I'm looking at it right, this is the lathe you used, correct? https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PENPAL.html
    I think I might well be interested in that instead as this is something I'd like to really play around with as a serious hobby.

    I'm a total noob on the counters, however. I have an engineer friend who swears by photo counters, but I'm trying to figure out where I can source those parts on eBay fairly cheaply. The counter at the start of the thread I could get used cheap, but the sensor I'm lost on.
     
  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I think it has a limit of around 1200 RPM but I think I went a bit faster without problems. I'm not doing this for a living so if it takes me 2 more minutes a coil...I'm OK with that....LOL.
     
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  12. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    There are a number of good threads. Here are a couple I remember:

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/yet-another-pickup-winder-build-thread.341159/


    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/building-a-winder-winding-a-pickup.900371/
     
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  13. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    yeah. I recall when I was making mine, I was talking with Bill Lawrence, he said using a magnetic sensor would limit it to about 1500.. with an optical sensor you could double that... but at that speed ya gotta pay attention..

    r
     
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  14. Potatocaster

    Potatocaster Tele-Meister

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    Considering how much of a clutz I can be, sounds like the magnet would be sensor enough.
     
  15. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    the issue is "dwell" or the length of time the magnet has to induce a signal into the receptor as the thing's spinning... get it too fast and the counter will begin skipping turn... an optical counter pretty much eliminates that issue....
     
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  16. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I patterned mine after this:
    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/nosmos-pu-winder.339217/

    I went from a reed switch to a Hall sensor and am completely happy with it. Total cost about $80 and got everything from eBay. The Cub counter was DOA so I found a different one on eBay for around 10 bucks.

    The 7000 rpm motor maybe a bit much. Mine is a 24v 1000 rpm motor which is about perfect for me. YMMV..

    I like the lathe idea but I just don't have the room for it.
     
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  17. Potatocaster

    Potatocaster Tele-Meister

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    I ended up grabbing the pen lathe on sale with a faceplate and true center. I just need to wire up an optical counter. Found this link as well that I may also consult: https://www.instructables.com/id/Pro-quality-pickup-winder-3000-RPM-pickup-winder-w/#discuss

    Thanks for all this information! It has been and will.contonue to be invaluable. Just got my body template printed at FedEx so I'll be flying that on some MDF soon to get closer to having a body for these pickups :)
     
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  18. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Glad you got the lathe. Especially if it has infinitely controllable speed or soft-start. 7000 RPMs would be a bit fast. An optical or Hall effect sensor will serve you best. You’ll be slow and cautious at first, then get impatient and go fast, and notice your counter’s missing rotations. If you have an optical or Hall effect counter, you won’t miss counts, but in the learning process you’lol let your attention wander, and -blammo—you’ve made your first Ronald McDonald wig. This will teach you it’s important to not wind when you’re distracted, and can devote full attention to the task at hand, usually. You know how I know all this.
     
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  19. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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