Not so much experimented, but I did build the Madamp G3 Blues, which has an interesting pentode/triode front end.
The 'gain' control has the effect of varying compression as well as overall 'gain'
It's a lovely amp!
Sounds great, gotta try it – very easy mod too!Clockwise gives more gain, less compression. Used in conjunction with a clean-ish boost pedal and/or the guitar volume control, some great sounds can be had. Keep the compression up by keeping 'gain' set quite low, and a Tele bridge pickup sparkles in a most agreeable way. The gain side of it isn't for metal-heads, but for sustain heaven, for bluesy leads ( and gronked out fuzz-garage ) it's a nice setup.
I was just going to ask about that, so a reverse audio pot it will be!One thing to watch for is the use of a type 'C' pot. A normal 'A' pot'll work, but may cause head scratching, being bass-ackwards![]()
Thinking about it, if I put the pentode after two gain stages, there would be no need for a boost pedal I guess!Clockwise gives more gain, less compression. Used in conjunction with a clean-ish boost pedal and/or the guitar volume control, some great sounds can be had. Keep the compression up by keeping 'gain' set quite low, and a Tele bridge pickup sparkles in a most agreeable way. The gain side of it isn't for metal-heads, but for sustain heaven, for bluesy leads ( and gronked out fuzz-garage ) it's a nice setup.
It will increase screen voltage and it lessen control grid signal ability to adjust anode current. Operating point moves and I think whole EF86 rebiasing is needed. I have used "default" values when I have used EF86 few times. Tube datasheet usually list max values!On a preamp pentode with say 100K anode resistor, what will dropping the screen resistor from say 1M to 220K do to tone? Will it compress more?
Will the result be similar to instead adding a 500K resistor after the screen bypass cap?