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Ordering parts for 335 Build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Rock_Glenn, Jan 20, 2021.

  1. Rock_Glenn

    Rock_Glenn Tele-Meister

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    I've built a strat and a tele, next up is a Gibson style.

    I wasn't confident in my abilities to do a set-neck archtop from scratch so I sold a couple amps and purchased this kit: https://precisionguitarkits.com/product/double-cut-archtop

    I intend to stain it in Walnut and finish with a light layer of Nitro. Hardware will be Gold.

    But, trying to order a Tune-O-Matic bridge is daunting.

    According to Precision's site, both the bridge and tailpiece are drilled with 7/16" holes.

    Leaning toward using Faber, I see that they sell tailpiece bushings for metric style guitars, but they measure .564".

    Then they sell 4mm bridge posts, but I don't see any bushings to thread them into. What do I glue into the 7/16" holes to thread the bridge pins into?

    I've about given up on ordering the Faber, and might just get the Gotoh 510 instead:

    https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-h...c-bridges/gotoh-510-bridge-and-tailpiece.html

    I reached out to Faber but haven't received a response, can anyone help?
     
  2. BryMelvin

    BryMelvin Friend of Leo's

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    Just ream the 7/16 holes out to .564 and use the faber. AFTER you use a trapeze and floating bridge jazz guitar style to make sure the holes are in the correct place. Check neck angle and file or shim as necessary with these and strings mocking up before gluing the neck in. I have never done a hollow, acoustic, or semi without making adjustments to the raw pieces. To keep from extra holes use what will be the strap button position to attach the trapeze. Mock up everything first.

    Personally I like using the thin posts directly into the wood, vintage Gibson style, but you already have holes drilled.

    I use a Stewmac cam clamp holding the neck in and check for approximate intonation (using floating bridge)with both e strings. use a really lite 8 set and the clamp will be able to hold.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2021
  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The Gotoh bridge has a stud insert diameter of .436". The holes are .438" however the spline portion could be a larger diameter to bite into the hole.

    ....I'd try the gotoh myself if you don't want to mess with filling and drilling.

    I like the metric bridge the least myself, so I would be turning down a plug to fit the bridge hole, and re-drilling for an ABR-1 or Nashville Style.

    You could email precision to see which bridge fits from their perspective.
     
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  4. Rock_Glenn

    Rock_Glenn Tele-Meister

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    They recommend the gotoh or tone pros in their faq. I'm not mistaken then that the faber bushings aren't an option without drilling.
     
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  5. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    If you are going to build a 335 style guitar you might want to look at this

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/lets-build-something-that-looks-like-an-es-335.1057700/

    I've never heard of Faber but have had very good luck with Gotoh ToM bridges on every Gibson style guitars that I've built. This one got a roller bridge because of the Bigsby

    Remember that there are three different configuration of tune-o-matic bridges, the original ABR-1, Nashville and so called modern. I like the modern ones with use an 11mm (7/16) hole. Sounds like that is what Precision uses too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2021
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  6. Rock_Glenn

    Rock_Glenn Tele-Meister

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    I found some 8mm bushings/inserts in my parts bin, so as long as the Faber is 8mm I'm in business.

    But it's twice as much money as the Gotoh, so I have a bit of a decision to make. I generally hate Zinc hardware. So I'm inclined to avoid the Gotoh. It's probably all in my head.
     
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  7. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'll be very interested to see what you think of the Precision kit. They frankly look like the best of all of the double cut options and from what I have heard the materials and worksmanship are excellent. I see that the one in your link is out of stock, you must have got the last one.

    My experience has been to have whatever bridge you are going to use in your hand when you start setting the neck - different ToM's do vary in height as well as the the different kinds of studs. As I said, I have always used Gotohs when I'm building but I've worked on many of the others.
     
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  8. Rock_Glenn

    Rock_Glenn Tele-Meister

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    I will update here when I receive the kit, it should be in next week.

    I ended up ordering a cheap Gotoh aluminum tailpiece, and a Tonepros Aluminum w/ brass saddles bridge (TPFA-G). Faber has no stock and they never responded to me. Plus their websites looks like a gimmick/scam website imo. A place in England had stock, but they also never responded to me about getting the correct bushings, which frankly I think should come with the bridge.

    I was able to grab some used Fralin P-92 pickups so that's one less thing. and I ordered the Gotoh locking tuners. I wanted humbucker sized P-90's of some sort, but the price was too good to pass up.

    The only thing I have to figure out now is what length pot I need for the PGK body. The maple cap is 7/8" so I'm going to wait and see how much of the cap is drilled away before ordering pots. Ditto on the switch.
     
  9. Rock_Glenn

    Rock_Glenn Tele-Meister

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    I received the kit. It's not your typical Chinese/ebay/stewmac kit. The frets and the inlays on the neck are perfect. The neck fits into the pocket like a glove. I sanded the body to 300 grit and still had some router marks though when I stained. Nothing too serious, and not something I usually worry about on a guitar for myself.

    The "kerfing" is interesting, it looks like they create a sort of kerf in the maple of top with a router. It's not as pretty as the way Gibson does it, but since the top and back aren't plywood they've created a unique way of doing it.

    Also, everything is metric sized, pots, switch, bridge holes, etc. just an FYI
     
  10. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'm glad to hear your opinion that they are better quality than the import kits - they should be. I like the fact that they do not include all the cheap hardware and electronics that you are just going to throw away anyway. I was also curious how they did the inner block and the plates - sounds like a good choice.

    I'd like to see pictures as you get farther along.
     
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