Opinions on Vibramate Spoiler

TX_Slinger

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Solution in search of a problem? Talking about a B50 where I've already upgraded the roller bar to roller bearings, and it will not accept the drilled B5 bar. I have the $10 StringRay which helps restringing though I'm actually thinking a cut piece of fuel line would work better for holding the ball ends on the pins. I don't change strings often since I'm a home player and am about to put locking tuners on it which would eliminate some of the PITA of restringing.

Pros:
Straighter string pull thru the bridge so maybe added tuning stability?

Cons:
Breaks up the nice Bigsby aesthetic (if I wanted an ugly trem I'd still have a Floyd).

This thingy for those not familiar with it...

Vibramate String Spoiler
 

old wrench

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Do you have access to a drill press?

If you do, it's a simple and straight-forward operation to convert your existing string bar to a string-through :)

I've modified several for the U.S. made Bigsbys, and it really is a simple job with a drill press - it also helps if you have some sort of a drill press vise to hold the string bar firmly while you are drilling it.

All you need to do is pull out the six roll-pins with a pair of pliers, and then use those six holes as your pilot holes for the through-holes - there is no layout work to do, and you don't have to mess around with the chore of trying to start a drill hole on a skinny round shaft either ;)

After you drill your through-holes, chuck-up a larger drill bit and drill down deep enough to form a counter-bore deep enough to accept the string's ferrules.


I agree with you that a Bigsby is a good-looking piece of hardware, and it's kind of a shame to hang a piece of ugly-looking hardware on it, especially when there is a cleaner-looking alternative :)

.
 

gitold

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I have 3 of them and I think they are great. I’m old now and anything that makes my life easier is alright with me. As far as changing the feel of the bar I haven’t noticed any differenc.
 

SparkleFart

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Do you have access to a drill press?

If you do, it's a simple and straight-forward operation to convert your existing string bar to a string-through :)

I've modified several for the U.S. made Bigsbys, and it really is a simple job with a drill press - it also helps if you have some sort of a drill press vise to hold the string bar firmly while you are drilling it.

All you need to do is pull out the six roll-pins with a pair of pliers, and then use those six holes as your pilot holes for the through-holes - there is no layout work to do, and you don't have to mess around with the chore of trying to start a drill hole on a skinny round shaft either ;)

After you drill your through-holes, chuck-up a larger drill bit and drill down deep enough to form a counter-bore deep enough to accept the string's ferrules.


I agree with you that a Bigsby is a good-looking piece of hardware, and it's kind of a shame to hang a piece of ugly-looking hardware on it, especially when there is a cleaner-looking alternative :)

.

This worked for me. I have 3 B5s & a B16. As much as I tried to like the Spoiler, it just changed the feel of the Bigs & wasn't worth the trade for convenience. Callaham's main string shaft replacement or drilling your own preserves the feel, if that matters to you. Just my 2 cents.
 

BorderRadio

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I have nearly a dozen guitars with a Bigsby, love 'em. I have never complained openly about changing strings. I guess I learned quick? So yeah, I think the Spoiler "spoils" the aesthetic point of a Bigsby, so I'll never use one.

I drilled the bar out on one of my B5s. You can buy them that way now, I noticed. The time to pull all the bars, set up the drill press, and reinstall and restring is not worth it for me. Not worth it because restringing is not a problem.

There are tips and tricks that work, tape, foam wedges, locking tuners. Again, I find they are completely unnecessary and shave maybe a few seconds from a string change. The thing is, all one has to do is pre-bend the ball end. I just use my hands for the bend, it's that easy. After that it's about having the snips and string winder very handy, and of course keeping the string under tension. The guitar is resting upright on my legs...
 

TX_Slinger

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I have nearly a dozen guitars with a Bigsby, love 'em. I have never complained openly about changing strings. I guess I learned quick? So yeah, I think the Spoiler "spoils" the aesthetic point of a Bigsby, so I'll never use one.

I drilled the bar out on one of my B5s. You can buy them that way now, I noticed. The time to pull all the bars, set up the drill press, and reinstall and restring is not worth it for me. Not worth it because restringing is not a problem.

There are tips and tricks that work, tape, foam wedges, locking tuners. Again, I find they are completely unnecessary and shave maybe a few seconds from a string change. The thing is, all one has to do is pre-bend the ball end. I just use my hands for the bend, it's that easy. After that it's about having the snips and string winder very handy, and of course keeping the string under tension. The guitar is resting upright on my legs...
I think I'll wait until after I've upgraded to the one step Grover Rotomatic Locking tuners to see if that helps with restringing. I am not of the opinion that locking tuners help with stability unless you're winding your strings poorly. The Grovers are a direct replacement for the non locking Grovers on this model anyway. In my research I found another device that is less obtrusive than the String Spoiler, the Butchie Bar...very low key and a smarter design IMHO.


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Boreas

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I couldn't get my Spoiler to fit my B50. Just a scosh too wide. I believe the box states for B5s and not B50s - although I don't think it would take much to MAKE it fit. I ended up just drilling out my own bar for a string-through. It was fairly soft metal, so easy drilling.

But after all is said and done, I never really had a problem with the studs. I just wanted to give it a try. I doubt I will change any others over.
 

TX_Slinger

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I just ordered the Butchie Bar instead of the Spoiler. Expensive but appears to be a nicely machined product. Curious how it stays attached. I should add that they specifically offer a Metric version for the B50.
 

BorderRadio

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I think I'll wait until after I've upgraded to the one step Grover Rotomatic Locking tuners to see if that helps with restringing. I am not of the opinion that locking tuners help with stability unless you're winding your strings poorly. The Grovers are a direct replacement for the non locking Grovers on this model anyway. In my research I found another device that is less obtrusive than the String Spoiler, the Butchie Bar...very low key and a smarter design IMHO.


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I like the Butchie Bar: it doesn't mess with the looks, yet helps keep the strings in place.

One trade off that I see is that feeding the sharp end of the string through the hole sucks. I'd end up with a bunch of scratches there if I wasnt careful with my drilled bar. I mean I end up pre-bending the string again. But that's not a big deal?

Kinda like the original pin design, just not a big deal...🤷‍♂️🙃
 

TX_Slinger

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I like the Butchie Bar: it doesn't mess with the looks, yet helps keep the strings in place.

One trade off that I see is that feeding the sharp end of the string through the hole sucks. I'd end up with a bunch of scratches there if I wasnt careful with my drilled bar. I mean I end up pre-bending the string again. But that's not a big deal?

Kinda like the original pin design, just not a big deal...🤷‍♂️🙃
On my traditional teles I just slap a piece of painters tape behind the bridge before restringing to prevent finish scratches. Will likely do the same for this one at the loc the string bends. Wondering if like a Gibson tailpiece, you could load all strings into the Butchie Bar then slip it in place?
 

Boreas

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IMO, once you get your nut in order, tuning stability (returning to pitch) is usually due to bridge selection and friction on the B50 roller bar - that you likely have eliminated with the bearings. The only thing to watch out for is too high of a bridge. I prefer the Fender Jag/Jazz rocker because of its low profile. To decrease break angle, I also eliminate the roller bar and just use the axle.
 

Boreas

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On my traditional teles I just slap a piece of painters tape behind the bridge before restringing to prevent finish scratches. Will likely do the same for this one at the loc the string bends. Wondering if like a Gibson tailpiece, you could load all strings into the Butchie Bar then slip it in place?
Don't forget the Reverend "squishy spring"!
 

bottlenecker

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Solution in search of a problem? Talking about a B50 where I've already upgraded the roller bar to roller bearings, and it will not accept the drilled B5 bar. I have the $10 StringRay which helps restringing though I'm actually thinking a cut piece of fuel line would work better for holding the ball ends on the pins. I don't change strings often since I'm a home player and am about to put locking tuners on it which would eliminate some of the PITA of restringing.

Pros:
Straighter string pull thru the bridge so maybe added tuning stability?

Cons:
Breaks up the nice Bigsby aesthetic (if I wanted an ugly trem I'd still have a Floyd).

This thingy for those not familiar with it...

Vibramate String Spoiler

I think the pro you listed isn't really a thing. Same break angle over the bridge.
 

willietheweirdo

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Mine made it into the round file. It was designed to have a lot of side-to-side play for some reason (before you add string tension), so it's always in a different position.

There's nothing holding it on other than the strings, so you have to be careful if you're bothered by dings. But you're already careful if you're bothered by dings.

If you're used to playing a strat and using the heel of your hand to push on the bridge (instead of grabbing the bar), it provides a little lever to do that.

Meh. 🤷‍♂️

That Butchie Bar looks pretty cool.
 




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