Opinions on the new 60th Anniversary Jazzmaster?

[DougM]

I liked the bound fingerboards with block inlays on Jags and JMs in the sixties, but now, fifty years later, I think it looks crappy on the light colored PF boards on the new 60th Anniv. JM. And I've never like painted headstocks. I feel it looks especially cheap on the Daphne Blue and Fiesta Red versions, and only so-so on the black and blonde ones. At least this guitar has American pickups, but $1199 for a Mexican guitar? Really Fender? It can't cost that much more to do a nitro instead of poly finish. I think I'll pass.

 

[EsquireOK]

I have played them, and the nicer quality American sunburst '58 model. My guitar shop got one of each of the four colors of the MIMs (added the black one to the order just for me), and one of the 2TSB '58's.

The matching headstock MIM ones are kind of expensive. But they have a unique set of features, and the quality is good. It's not knock-your-socks-off amazing, but it's at MIM Classic Lacquer Series level, and those are $925 sticker price guitars that are quite nice IMO. The additional cost comes from it being a special anniversary model, and something they've never made before (and very cool features to boot).

The ones I played needed to have the fret ends dressed, and they come with one of the "worse" Fender Jag/JM vibrato units (not the AV unit). Not sure where you heard they have U.S.A. JM pickups, but that is not true. They have MIM Classic Series pickups...which sound very good IMO.

They can be had for 15 percent under M.A.P., if you try a bit harder than just clicking BUY online. So that makes them $1,080 guitars.

I have mostly higher end guitars than this, and I was able to make great sounds with it, and considered it within striking distance of being a great instrument, in the technical sense. They need a fret end dressing: $40 from my guy to round the fret ends. It couldn't hurt to replace the vibrato with an AV unit if you really wanted to use it heavily, but it's fine as is. Round those frets, make sure the nut was in proper order, give it one of my nice Jazzmaster setups (add neck angle, etc.), and it'd be a fully gig-worth instrument for me alongside any of my AVs or Custom Shop instruments.

I would already own one if it wasn't for the light brown board, the very yellow neck, and the IMO oversized frets (I like old-type skinny frets). The specs list says skinny tall frets, but the ones I played definitely had heavily crowned mediums on them. I'm not a fan of the 9-1/2" radius either. I can play it just fine, but I prefer 7-1/4". Also, the pearloid blocks are not wide enough; it looks funny. I wish these had just been straight reissues instead of the vintage-modified thing.

So, the reason I wouldn't get one is specs, not price. There are a few decisions Fender made with them, that I am not really a fan of.

I still might get one, though. That black nitro with a matching head is just too gorgeous. Or I might be getting the '58 instead...or I might get a used bargain priced AV '65 and just paint it black with a matching headstock myself. Might just do a build as well. I really want that black with matching head, but it'd be nice to dial in all the other specs just the way I want them, and go with dots instead of block inlays.

 

[EsquireOK]

FWIW, I just bought one of these. I got the blonde one. $1,000, no tax, no shipping charge. Hunted diligently and found one at 7 lb. 8 oz. – quite light for a Jazzmaster, and the lightest one I could track own, by several ounces (most ranged from 7 lb. 12 oz. to 8 lb. 8 oz.). I prefer lighter guitars due to feel, and this dealer also came down farther than anyone else would, and with no argument or hassle/haggle about it. So it was my most desired copy that I found, and also the lowest price that I was able to find. Funny how that just happens sometimes.

I should correct something from my earlier post. I said most were giving 15 percent off. I meant 10 percent. The $1,080 price I stated was correct, but the percentage I stated was wrong.

Also something I forgot to mention: They come with a Fender Pro Series hardshell case, which would normally be $120 extra.

Here's a retailer pic of the guitar I bought. I'll most likely be putting an anodized guard on it, either gold coating or black coating.

 

[BorderRadio]

I kinda agree about the PF fingerboard, I personally would never buy one because of that, even used. They are solid otherwise, IMHO, and I love big blocks and matched headstock, which is why I didn’t flinch when I bought my TVL Jazzmaster. Sure, I haggled for a better price but I’d do it for full, it’s such a great guitar, doesn’t matter that its MIM.

I miss it

 

[knopflerfan]

I liked the bound fingerboards with block inlays on Jags and JMs in the sixties, but now, fifty years later, I think it looks crappy on the light colored PF boards on the new 60th Anniv. JM. And I've never like painted headstocks. I feel it looks especially cheap on the Daphne Blue and Fiesta Red versions, and only so-so on the black and blonde ones. At least this guitar has American pickups, but $1199 for a Mexican guitar? Really Fender? It can't cost that much more to do a nitro instead of poly finish. I think I'll pass.

I agree that blocks/binding look "strange" on Pau Ferro fingerboards - even though Pau Ferro is the inevitability of CITES, etc... I don't dislike painted headstocks, but agree that they only right on "certain" guitars. I'm totally with you regarding pricing - generally speaking, cost increases these past 10 or 12 years have been unreasonable.

 

[WilburBufferson]

I was really drooling over the one in vintage white. Found one at the store and was REALLY disappointed with the way it played for the price that they are. Here in Canada, they are closer to $1,500. All I thought was: if I buy this, I will have to spend hundreds to get it playing okay -- meaning, the usual stuff with the bridge, nut and what have you. For that kind of cash, one might be better off looking at the 60s lacquer which at least had the USA 65 vintage pickups stock. Admittedly though, I am not presently in love with JMs because the Gretsh bug has a firmer hold on me right now.

 

[Reedo]

That's a shame, I was looking forward to trying one out.

 

[Old Tele man]

FWIW, with neck binding with block inlays is how they "originally" came back in the day.

 

[AAT65]

FWIW, with neck binding with block inlays is how they "originally" came back in the day.

You sure now? According to Vintage Guitar, the binding came in around 1965 and block inlays 1966.
https://www.vintageguitar.com/20717/a-masters-pallet/
The new AO 60’s JM appears to be aiming for the ‘65-66 window, with binding and pearloid dots.

 

[Old Tele man]

You sure now? According to Vintage Guitar, the binding came in around 1965 and block inlays 1966.
https://www.vintageguitar.com/20717/a-masters-pallet/
The new AO 60’s JM appears to be aiming for the ‘65-66 window, with binding and pearloid dots.

Oops, you are correct, I was only thinking back to my '65 and '67 days and JMs...

 

[WilburBufferson]

That's a shame, I was looking forward to trying one out.

Well... let me eat my words a little bit. This afternoon I went to another store and played another specimen and it was a much better experience. I should have said in my first post that I know there are differences in (shipped) guitars and that every one is different -- you just gotta play them and find one that connects. This one, today, was night and day better than the first. Now, I didn't plug it in, but it was a smooth player, though I still am not a fan of the screw-thread saddles which, to me, are kinda dumb, knowing what we know now about how to improve the stability of these guitars.

In the final analysis, I feel as though this model was redeemed, but I would still find it hard to shell out 1.5K for a guitar that required upgrades out of the box, though she looked purrty!!!

 

[Reedo]

Well... let me eat my words a little bit. This afternoon I went to another store and played another specimen and it was a much better experience. I should have said in my first post that I know there are differences in (shipped) guitars and that every one is different -- you just gotta play them and find one that connects. This one, today, was night and day better than the first. Now, I didn't plug it in, but it was a smooth player, though I still am not a fan of the screw-thread saddles which, to me, are kinda dumb, knowing what we know now about how to improve the stability of these guitars.

In the final analysis, I feel as though this model was redeemed, but I would still find it hard to shell out 1.5K for a guitar that required upgrades out of the box, though she looked purrty!!!

Cool, I'm pleased you had a better experience with another JM.

 

[EsquireOK]

The guitar arrived today.

I am blown away. It's better than any that I tried in store locally.

It's not perfect...but it's damned, damned good. It's on the expensive end for a MIM Fender...but considering everything, I don't feel that I overpaid.

Surprisingly, this is the best factory setup I've ever seen on a Fender Jazzmaster or Jaguar (despite the fact that it's wearing 9's for strings). It's not *perfect*, but whoever set this thing up does obviously know the special setup needs of Jags and Jazzmasters. The neck is already angled enough so that the bridge can be set properly to prevent the strings from riding on the back of the bridge frame and on the vibrato screws. No contact at all in the usual trouble areas. I usually have to do this myself.

The finish is absolutely beautiful and pristine...and smells great. I love the smell of solvents! The color is nearly opaque, and not nearly as banana or canary yellow as it looks in most retailer pix online. It's pretty subdued in saturation, and nearly opaque. It looks more like Desert Tan than honey blonde, unless you get close and look for the grain.

The guitar sounds great, even without the '65 RI American Fender pickups (it has Mexican '60's reissue Classic pickups).

It is only 7.5 lb. This is quite light for a Jazzmaster, by 1/2 lb. or more.

Here is what "needs" to be changed, to my tastes, or that which I already changed:

1. The frets *seriously* need to be end dressed, i.e. rounded over in all directions. I pay a guy $40 for this job - well worth it, since doing it myself would take way more of my time than is worth only $40.

2. I had to raise the saddles about one full turn on each hex screw because the light strings were rattly for the heavier way I tend to play. The strings didn't contact the bridge plate or the vibrato screws anyhow, but now they *really* don't (this photo makes them look much closer than they are).

Jazzmaster/Jag folks will know that this is tons of clearance over the vibrato screw. Usually you have to tweak to get the string *just off* the screw.

3. I did some minor fine tuning with pickup heights and pickup angles. Angled them to match the neck/string angle, lowered the neck pickup slightly and raised the bridge pickup slightly.

4. I'll need to tweak the nut and intonate for 10's or 11's. I might just have my guy go ahead and put on a bone nut while he has it for the fret end dressing. That plus the fret work, probably about $110.

5. I will be oiling the light brown pau ferro board.

6. I will likely be replacing the guard with a lacquered gold-anodized aluminum guard. A good thing about a guard swap on a Jag or Jazzmaster is that your pickups don't need to be set up afterward.

7. It will get Tele-style chrome barrel knobs.

8. The switch will be turned 90 degrees, so it has an up-down action instead of the front-back action that it has in this pic:

9. The "aged white" switch tip will be replaced with plain white, so that it matches the white pickup covers. Either that, or the switch tip and pickups covers will be black. It'd be a good look either way (switch tip is not black in this pic, so you'll have to use your imagination).

That's it. I've decided I'm not gonna change out the vibrato for an "accurate" vintage piece (the AV kind with the string lock). I don't use the string lock anyhow, and the guitar is already not an accurate reissue of any Jazzmaster that ever existed (so who cares if it has the "right" vibrato unit – this one is fine). And since this thing is so well set up, I don't want to monkey with it.

My verdict: $1,000 shipped, plus $110 in planned tech work, plus a gold guard, knobs, and switch tip (which I already have) comes in at under $1,200. With Fender HSC, only 7.5 pounds, a beautiful nitro finish that will break in gracefully, a unique look (honey blonde with matching head), and a setup and sound this good. Worth it IMO. This thing basically feels like a U.S.A. reissue in quality, aside from the fret ends. I would have preferred clay dot inlays and an unbound fretboard, but the pearloid blocks and binding look good to me anyhow.

 

[theprofessor]

The guitar arrived today.

I am blown away. It's better than any that I tried in store locally.

Surprisingly, this is the best factory setup I've ever seen on a Fender Jazzmaster or Jaguar (despite the fact that it's wearing 9's for strings). Whoever set this thing up knows Jags and Jazzmasters and their special setup needs. The neck is already angled enough so that the bridge can be set properly to prevent the strings from riding on the back of the bridge frame and on the vibrato screws. No contact at all in the usual trouble areas. I usually have to do this myself.

The finish is absolutely beautiful and pristine...and smells great. I love the smell of solvents!

The guitar sounds great, even without the '65 RI American Fender pickups (it has Mexican '60's reissue Classic pickups).

Here is what "needs" to be changed, to my tastes, or that which I already changed:

1. The frets *seriously* need to be end dressed, i.e. rounded over in all directions. I pay a guy $40 for this job - well worth it, since doing it myself would take way more of my time than is worth only $40.

2. I had to raise the saddles about one full turn on each hex screw because they were unreasonably low.

3. I did some minor fine tuning with pickup heights and pickup angles. Angled them to match the neck/string angle, and lowered the neck pickup slightly and raised the bridge pickup slightly.

4. I'll need to outfit the nut and intonate for 10's or 11's. I might just have my guy go ahead and put on a bone nut while he has it for the fret end dressing. That plus the fret work, probably about $110.

5. I will be oiling the light brown pau ferro board.

6. I will likely be replacing the guard with a lacquered gold-anodized aluminum guard.

THAT'S IT. I'm not even gonna change out the vibrato for an "accurate" vintage piece, with the string lock. I don't use the string lock anyhow, the guitar is already not an accurate reissue, so who cares if it has the "right" vibrato unit, and since this thing is so well set up, I don't want to monkey with it.

My verdict: $1,000 shipped, plus $110 in planned tech work, plus a gold guard, comes in at under $1,2000. With Fender HSC, a beautiful nitro finish that will break in gracefully, a unique look (honey blonde with matching head), and a setup and sound this good. Worth it IMO.

Nice! Congratulations! Get us some more pics of that thing when you get it all set up, if you can.

 

[WilburBufferson]

Good one and nice documentation of the issues that you are addressing. In Canada, that work would put the guitar easily over 2K which is why I reluctantly walk the other way. Still, that colour combo is very attractive and I don't mind the tort guard.

 

[EsquireOK]

Good one and nice documentation of the issues that you are addressing. In Canada, that work would put the guitar easily over 2K which is why I reluctantly walk the other way. Still, that colour combo is very attractive and I don't mind the tort guard.

It would cost easily $500 Canadian to have the frets end dressed and polished, and the nut replaced – and to buy an anodized pickguard and some Tele knobs? The latter stuff is just cosmetic – my choices. Not "requirements" by any stretch.

 

[WilburBufferson]

It would cost easily $500 Canadian to have the frets end dressed and polished, and the nut replaced – and to buy an anodized pickguard and some Tele knobs? The latter stuff is just cosmetic – my choices. Not "requirements" by any stretch.

To clarify: the guitar retails for 1,500 before tax here, $1,700 after tax. New nut. fret dress and setup -- about 150, give or take. So, you're right if we are just talking function. Unless one got lucky, an anodized guard would be 75-100. Point is, the dollar doesn't go very far up here if we are talking about brand new gear.

 

[EsquireOK]

To clarify: the guitar retails for 1,500 before tax here, $1,700 after tax. New nut. fret dress and setup -- about 150, give or take. So, you're right if we are just talking function. Unless one got lucky, an anodized guard would be 75-100. Point is, the dollar doesn't go very far up here if we are talking about brand new gear.

This still doesn't make sense.

The numbers you gave right there, which do not even include the fact that these go for 10 percent off retail price, still add up to $1,950 Canadian at most, even when making the cosmetic mods. Yet I am only "right if we are just talking function."

Your statement that I'm right if we are just talking function is clearly incorrect. In fact, I am right if are just talking function ($1,850), *and* I am right if we are talking both function and form ($1,950). Neither of those scenarios is "easily over 2K Canadian."

Account for "easily" (hyuk hyuk) getting these for 10 percent off retail, and you've got a $1,350 guitar, plus the 13.3 percent tax rate you quoted (which I am trusting blindly), and you have a $1,530 guitar after tax, not $1,700. So real world deals considered, $1,680 with functional mods only, and $1,780 with functional and cosmetic mods. Again clearly not "easily over $2K Canadian."

And to reiterate, even worst case scenario, i.e. paying full retail price, you've got $1,950 in at most. Not "easily over $2K Canadian" by any stretch.

Whether or not you find this to be worth it for the guitar is not the point. I have no desire to, or fantasy that it is possible to, sit here and tell someone else what something is worth to him or her. There is no objective case to be made there. Something is worth to you exactly what it is worth to you, and nobody can tell you any differently. I respect your ability to make this determination for yourself.

The point is simply that your math is clearly wrong, and it has apparently led you to make exaggerated claims as statements of fact. What would have made your statement correct is to have stated it as follows: "In Canada, that work could put the guitar close to 2K which is why I reluctantly walk the other way."

Do the basic exchange math, and adjust for the fact that we can get away without paying tax here (by buying from out of state), and you will see that you're just talking about high taxes, not much of a true difference in value. Obviously there is much more to it than simple exchange rate. Canadians do indeed have less local purchasing power, so the guitar almost certainly is valued higher in Canada than in the U.S.A. once all things are considered. That point is clearly understood. However, the statement of "easily over $2K Canadian" is just flat wrong, by any objective measure. It's approaching $2K worst case scenario, not easily over $2K. Since you like the tort guard, and assuming you negotiate the thing down 10 percent, you'd have a $1,680 (Canadian) guitar in the end.

 

[WilburBufferson]

This still doesn't make sense.

The numbers you gave right there, which do not even include the fact that these go for 10 percent off retail price, still add up to $1,950 Canadian at most, even when making the cosmetic mods. Yet I am only "right if we are just talking function."

Your statement that I'm right if we are just talking function is clearly incorrect. In fact, I am right if are just talking function ($1,850), *and* I am right if we are talking both function and form ($1,950). Neither of those scenarios is "easily over 2K Canadian."

Account for "easily" (hyuk hyuk) getting these for 10 percent off retail, and you've got a $1,350 guitar, plus the 13.3 percent tax rate you quoted (which I am trusting blindly), and you have a $1,530 guitar after tax, not $1,700. So real world deals considered, $1,680 with functional mods only, and $1,780 with functional and cosmetic mods. Again clearly not "easily over $2K Canadian."

And to reiterate, even worst case scenario, i.e. paying full retail price, you've got $1,950 in at most. Not "easily over $2K Canadian" by any stretch.

Whether or not you find this to be worth it for the guitar is not the point. I have no desire to, or fantasy that it is possible to, sit here and tell someone else what something is worth to him or her. There is no objective case to be made there. Something is worth to you exactly what it is worth to you, and nobody can tell you any differently. I respect your ability to make this determination for yourself.

The point is simply that your math is clearly wrong, and it has apparently led you to make exaggerated claims as statements of fact. What would have made your statement correct is to have stated it as follows: "In Canada, that work could put the guitar close to 2K which is why I reluctantly walk the other way."

Do the basic exchange math, and adjust for the fact that we can get away without paying tax here (by buying from out of state), and you will see that you're just talking about high taxes, not much of a true difference in value. Obviously there is much more to it than simple exchange rate. Canadians do indeed have less local purchasing power, so the guitar almost certainly is valued higher in Canada than in the U.S.A. once all things are considered. That point is clearly understood. However, the statement of "easily over $2K Canadian" is just flat wrong, by any objective measure. It's approaching $2K worst case scenario, not easily over $2K. Since you like the tort guard, and assuming you negotiate the thing down 10 percent, you'd have a $1,680 (Canadian) guitar in the end.

Hey, I didn't mean for this to be contentious at all. You guys South of the border have it good when it comes to Fender, and more generally, with all the sales that the big companies offer. I've asked for discounts, but I hazard to say, 10% off the top is unheard of up here. Are there any fellow Canucks who would like to chime in and tell me otherwise (so that I can shop where they do)? So I was off by $75 or so. My main point was that we get hosed up here in terms of selection, price, shipping, and...delivery time. Taxes are a big part of it too, of course. Yes, we can have what you have, but we've got to pay in time, or $$$ or both.

Bottom line: I sincerely did not mean to take anything away from your NGD. She's a beaute, truly, and I am glad that you got her at a good price.

 

[Rayf_Brogan]

I don't know why, but I never cared for block inlays or bindings on Fender guitars. Those guitars look nice but found a very good price on a 60s Jazzmaster. Curious to see how the PF board plays and feels. Hoping a little oil helps the different colored sections blend in better.

Now if only the guy from eBay would ship the damn thing. It's been 4 days. I'm starting to think he's sour because the final bid was pretty low on his auction.