Opinions on new low voc paint thinner?

telemnemonics

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As all paint products have been changing the last decade or so I find mixed results but get used to them.
Got a gallon of green paint thinner which is white and I wonder if I should just switch back or keep trying to use this stuff?
Anyone use it for cleanup?
Anyone use it for actual thinning?
I am big time into conservation so will stick with it, just wonder if it has caused any finishing problems.
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telemnemonics

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Right now I’m just using it at work painting old trim but even for that it seems off.
 

dogmeat

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bought some by accident when it first came out. I used it for cleaning parts & such. I really didn't like it. don't remember if I thinned any paint with it... doubt it because I don't use old school enamel. it seemed pointless to try it on anything clear like varnish. when I paint I use the "system" thinner/reducer... whatever the maker called for. I use the original style paint thinner for varnish & such. I use mineral spirits as a cleaner. I don't think either of those work with lacquer or shellac
 

SacDAve

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In CA. your choices are next to none the list of what you can buy is next to nothing. Myself (and sure others) take the drive to nevada (Reno) and buy the real stuff, "some" of that stuff is good for cleaning. I did just find out in CA. it goes by county Grass Valley CA. is about 40 minutes from me, and the have a great burger place.
 

Sea Devil

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Even if it dries clear, I can't imagine thinning any paint or finish with something that doesn't look like the end product when I'm applying it. It would all be guesswork unless you did endless tests and measured everything perfectly.
 

telemnemonics

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Some products seem to have gotten worse with low voc changes then better, like basic oil paint I bought in 2008 old version which dried overnight, then in 2012 and it stayed tacky for days, and finally now what I got dries overnight again.
But this milky paint thinner is just strange, and I dont like how it works cleaning brushes.
 

Silverface

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As all paint products have been changing the last decade or so I find mixed results but get used to them
1. I was in the paint business - the tech end - from 1975-2000, VP/ project manager of a contracting firm from 2000-2006 and consultant for years afterwards.

Paint formulas started changing in the early 1970’s due to air quality regulations. I was part of the Industry task force working on regulations with (against) Air Quality Mgmt Distrhicts, who were going for overkill every couple of years.

It’s NOTHING recent.

2. What in the world are you using paint thinner for (or with)? It’s not compatible with lacquers or polyurethanes and will foul them if used as Thinner - but will clean gunk off polyurethanes and SOME lacquers.

If thinning or cleaning up oil based stains or varnish, use mineral spirits…or naphtha, which is the cleanest solvent.

I don’t even own any paint thinner. Never use it, even with house paint. It’s a cheap blend of variable solvents. Read 5 paint thinner MSDS sheets - they’ll all be different as there is no standard. It’s just a generic name for nothing specific.
 

telemnemonics

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1. I was in the paint business - the tech end - from 1975-2000, VP/ project manager of a contracting firm from 2000-2006 and consultant for years afterwards.

Paint formulas started changing in the early 1970’s due to air quality regulations. I was part of the Industry task force working on regulations with (against) Air Quality Mgmt Distrhicts, who were going for overkill every couple of years.

It’s NOTHING recent.

2. What in the world are you using paint thinner for (or with)? It’s not compatible with lacquers or polyurethanes and will foul them if used as Thinner - but will clean gunk off polyurethanes and SOME lacquers.

If thinning or cleaning up oil based stains or varnish, use mineral spirits…or naphtha, which is the cleanest solvent.

I don’t even own any paint thinner. Never use it, even with house paint. It’s a cheap blend of variable solvents. Read 5 paint thinner MSDS sheets - they’ll all be different as there is no standard. It’s just a generic name for nothing specific.
This I got at work just for cleaning brushes.
Also have a new swamp ash Strat body and wanted to start with boiled linseed for color before workman grade nothing special poly/ oil finish.
Ran out of the boiled linseed a while back and now it is hard to find at local hardware and paint stores.
Just curious what others noticed in recent changes which have been ongoing but at times are more notable.

Also learned that recently gas stoves will not be allowed for new construction in certain states due to indoor emissions concerns.
So regs are always changing but when they really impact what I do I notice more and seek solutions!

Take away my gas stove?
Over my dead body!
 

jrblue

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low-odor mineral spirits
Yup -- that's the most consistent and reliable thinner for paint and similar materials that I can find. I don't know what the formulation of mineral spirits actually is, but it seems to be more oily and slower-evaporating than in the past.
I can't find naptha anywhere anymore.
I'm a visual artist and paint in oils, and in that work am constantly using different painting mediums, thinners, varnishes, and cleaning solvents. We're now many years into the industry trying to launch oil paints with water cleanup (???) and mediums and varnishes that will not combust, can be thinned with water, and which are low odor, etc. Across the board, these changes have led to products that meet one goal -- say, water clean-up -- while severely compromising the actual performance of the material. I applaud the effort -- nobody likes poison, fire, or noxious fumes -- but the products are not there yet.
I wonder if catalyzed finishes, particularly anything that's cured with light, might be a way forward, because the current offerings are really deficient.
 

Peegoo

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I wonder if catalyzed finishes, particularly anything that's cured with light, might be a way forward,

Several big-name guitar manufacturers use UV-cured finishes. It gets shot on, goes into the light booth, and about 10 minutes later it's getting hardware installed.
 

SacDAve

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Yup -- that's the most consistent and reliable thinner for paint and similar materials that I can find. I don't know what the formulation of mineral spirits actually is, but it seems to be more oily and slower-evaporating than in the past.
I can't find naptha anywhere anymore.
I'm a visual artist and paint in oils, and in that work am constantly using different painting mediums, thinners, varnishes, and cleaning solvents. We're now many years into the industry trying to launch oil paints with water cleanup (???) and mediums and varnishes that will not combust, can be thinned with water, and which are low odor, etc. Across the board, these changes have led to products that meet one goal -- say, water clean-up -- while severely compromising the actual performance of the material. I applaud the effort -- nobody likes poison, fire, or noxious fumes -- but the products are not there yet.
I wonder if catalyzed finishes, particularly anything that's cured with light, might be a way forward, because the current offerings are really deficient.
Just picked up a gallon of Naphtha, real Lacquer thinner and real paint thinner is Grass valley CA. I thought they were band in all CA. it goes by county you might try some surrounding counties.
 

Silverface

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This I got at work just for cleaning brushes
It’s never been good for cleaning brushes, and use it a few times on China bristle an.d you need to finish by treating it with a brush conditioner and brush comb.

Otherwise just buy $.75 chip brushes and toss them. About the same quality as a $25 China Bristle brush if it’s cleaned with paint thinner a few times.
 

Silverface

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I did just find out in CA. it goes by county
That’s not correct. Years ago the State AIR Resources Board (CARB) organized Districts (of connected Counties - or parts of counties, splipping some among multiple Districts) based primarily on 1) population, and 2) types of businesses and industries in each County.

LA, Orange and western San Bernardino Counties make up the South Coast Air Quality Management District; most of Western San Diego and Imperial Counties made up the San Diego Air Pollution Control District. Less densely populated countries with little industry are lumped together.

each sets their own rules, to a point - never LESS strict than the State “guidelines”, and always in compliance with State (CARB) and Federal (EPA) regulations or guidelines.

There are 58 counties in CA, and 35 air quality districts. If you think it’s tough for end users, think of the poor coatings companies who (to avoid HEFTY fines) have to police distributors who try to ship better working …but illegal…products to their stores in neighboring Districts just a few miles away across District lines.

Inspectors pose as retail buyers or contractors and buy products off the shelf with stamped codes they know indicate a non-compliant formulation of a product. They take it to a District lab, test it to verify it’s the “bad” stuff - and even if it’s ONE gallon mis-shipped by mistake they calculate a fine based on how much WOULD have been sold based on sales records.

some fines have been over $100,000. The reaction of some companies has been to stop shipping any non-compliant products to statewide distributors - or stop making the older, “good” paints & lacquers completely.
 

Beebe

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Spike Lavender and Rosemary essential oils were used by artist before Turpentine became abundant.

I order mine from a place called Art Treehouse.

Milk Paint makes a Citrus solvent they sell in large jugs.

They are VOC's, but nice ones.

There are some nuts out there that take Turpentine internally for health reasons... I wouldn't do it, but who knows ... I use these for thinning oils, because I know it's pure. They are a bit pricey, but guitars don't take too much.
 

SacDAve

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That’s not correct. Years ago the State AIR Resources Board (CARB) organized Districts (of connected Counties - or parts of counties, splipping some among multiple Districts) based primarily on 1) population, and 2) types of businesses and industries in each County.

LA, Orange and western San Bernardino Counties make up the South Coast Air Quality Management District; most of Western San Diego and Imperial Counties made up the San Diego Air Pollution Control District. Less densely populated countries with little industry are lumped together.

each sets their own rules, to a point - never LESS strict than the State “guidelines”, and always in compliance with State (CARB) and Federal (EPA) regulations or guidelines.

There are 58 counties in CA, and 35 air quality districts. If you think it’s tough for end users, think of the poor coatings companies who (to avoid HEFTY fines) have to police distributors who try to ship better working …but illegal…products to their stores in neighboring Districts just a few miles away across District lines.

Inspectors pose as retail buyers or contractors and buy products off the shelf with stamped codes they know indicate a non-compliant formulation of a product. They take it to a District lab, test it to verify it’s the “bad” stuff - and even if it’s ONE gallon mis-shipped by mistake they calculate a fine based on how much WOULD have been sold based on sales records.

some fines have been over $100,000. The reaction of some companies has been to stop shipping any non-compliant products to statewide distributors - or stop making the older, “good” paints & lacquers completely.
What ever, How many hours did you spend googling that? LOL
 
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