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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by NYbill, Dec 2, 2010.
I have some experiences
LOL, Morcillo! Yep, I think burning one counts as a "do over".
Well, here is the "Blackguard" all strung up. I'm surprised how loud it is acoustically! That must be the ash wood.
Its ready for paint and lacquer!
Ok, the ReRanch stuff has arrived. So, I'll soon be trying their Fender neck amber.
After having the guitar in this computer room for a while, the shape of the headstock from the low E side of the nut to the low E tuner started to look a little odd to me. It looks too "tall/sharp" to my eye.
I'll look at some more pics of the original '50's teles and recheck the headstock template. I'm thinking the shape needs to be more like the pencil line I drew on it. (comments welcome)
Well, I'll post a pic of the neck after tinting it in case anyone is interested in what the ReRanch amber looks like.
Here is the neck with ReRanch's "Fender neck amber" right on the bare maple. I have to say, I feel they nailed this color! To my eyes, it just looks right. (And I probably still have 9/10ths of the can left. I hope this stuff lasts
on the shelf.)
It does. I had the ReRanch Amber Dye sitting for over 2yrs. No issues. I used it on about 6 necks. Number 7 I went maple syrup dark amber and finished off the can. Came out great.
Thats good to know, Mike. Because, I imagine there is enough tint to do 6-8 necks.
Its winter here and I couldn't wait till spring to spray out in the shed! So, lacquer is going on with rattle cans. The old, "run out to the garage, spray quickly, hang the piece in the cellar, open the garage door" method. It'll have to do for now.
In between spraying the neck I'll start the body prep. I'm filling the ash grain with brown RIT dye and DAP. Thanks to the guys in the Finley Finished thread for cluing me in on this. It worked well enough on a scrap piece of ash that I'm going for it. I'll sand it out tomorrow when its all dry.
Great build, thanks for sharing. Nice workshop.....
Thanks mowcheeba, Its been a fun build. I'm happy to share. I've picked up many tips from these forums. Hopefully I can give a little back.
I sanded the grain filler down today. The DAP/RIT combo tended to clog the sand paper a bit. But, it wasn't too bad. I'll use it again. Next time though I'll clean the glops of filler out of the pockets before it gets hard. I had to clean them up with a knife today.
After sanding, I sealed the grain filler in with another coat of shellac. I'll give it a light sand and inspection tomorrow. But, I think its ready for paint! I've never tried a translucent butterscotch/blond before. This should be interesting.
Same for me, Arch user here
That said, it probably stems from being a Socialist as well but still, great work. Mistakes are to be learned from, not dweled over. It's looking great anyhow, what's it setting you back?
Hey a fellow Linux user! How are you Superewza. I've been using Linux since around '98. Before that I used some UNIX systems in college. Currently I have Arch on my laptop, Mint on the desktop, and #! on the netbook.
I got the ferrule pockets done today. I didn't want to press fit them in then have to mask them off or try and dig them back out before paint. So on the previous string ups I just had the ferrules against the back of the body.
I saw the jig that Jack Wells used for keeping the holes lined up some time ago. Great tip! I figured I would get a piece of 1/8 steel this week some time. But, this morning I remembered the finishing nails I had in a jar. They where the perfect size. So I nailed one through a piece of wood, clipped it a little shorter, and rounded the cut with a file. All that was needed then was to clamp it to the drill press table, line things up, set my depth stop, and drill away! It was accurate enough that I was able to step drill the pockets so the ferrules lip will recess and sit flush.
The jig was simple and effective. TDPRI and its members are a great resource!
Good choices, used Mint for a while myself then moved onto Arch. I'm thinking of giving FreeBSD a go after this but i still want to dual boot with Mint, have something to tinker with then have something fool proof to fall back on when it all goes wrong Damn my 35GB Raptor...
Surely a good way to get the holes in the right place would be to drill through the holes on the bridge? Or at least just mark where it needs to go and use pointed drill bits (that i forget the name of). Could hold it in place with Blu-tak.
And as for a rudimentary drill press, not really a suggestion so much as a query but has anybody used a dremel with the plunge router accessory and drill bits? Not so great as a router but i can't imagine why it wouldn't work as a drill...
Yea I did drill right through the body with a 1/8" drill bit. When I had the paper template on there at the start of the build, I punched all the drill and screw holes through into the wood. then drilled them accordingly. (You can see the string holes in the second picture.) The problem then becomes how to drill the pockets for the ferrules so they line up as well.
At first I thought to use regular drill bits. To use the 1/8" hole as a guide. But, sometimes the bit or piece you're drilling can wander using that method.
But, once I saw the jig Jack used, I knew that was the way to go. Plus, I could then use forstner bits and the bottom of the pockets would be flat.
So, you slip the body over the nail, through the 1/8" sting holes on the top of the body, and it holds every thing steady and lined up.
I don't do much with my Dremel. I use it for is routing inlay pockets, binding channels, nut slots, or buffing frets. And that is about it. But, I've seen people do all kinds of stuff with one on here.
Wow this looks amazing! I am so jealous of anyone who can do this. I would love to learn.
Thanks Kissfanps. It is a fun hobby. I'm sure anyone can learn. You just have to be prepared to get your education by making a lot of costly mistakes! At least thats how it seemed I went about it. LOL
Got the base coat of ReRanch "Fender Blonde" on it today. The dark grain filler lets the grain lines show up nicely (EDIT: They are a bit more prominent then in the pic. The camera flash is just washing things out). It will be followed up with tinted lacquer until I "yellow it up" to my liking. Then clear lacquer top coats.
I thought I would put up a after pic in case anyone wants to see what ReRanch fender blonde looks like after applying their tinted lacquer.
Ok, its ready for the clear coats.
EDIT: BTW, it is a even yellow. Man, its a trick to get a good picture of a shiny surface!
Very nice! I like it!
Thanks Dabby. Yea, I'm happy with the way its coming out. There will probably be a big pause in this thread now. The coats of clear lacquer will go on. Then the LONG wait. I'll probably leave it hang three weeks to a month before I start the wet sanding and buffing.
Sorry it took so long getting back. This project got put on the back burner while I waited for the weather to get nice enough to spray lacquer. Then the ~6 week curing time.
But, here it is. It was a fun project! Thanks to everyone for the help along the way. (now... whats next)
That turned out great, nice job.