Open grain - clear grain filler options for natural nitro finish

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Slowtwitch, Nov 21, 2019.

  1. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'd like to finish a Ash body with a 2 tone burst nitro
    I've applied approx 5 coats sanding sealer, but it made very little difference in filling the grain (as can be expected).

    I've done a Ash body burst finish, but it was with 2k poly, which is thicker than nitro, so with a number of coats I was able to finish it without grain showing, but with nitro, I suspect it will take too many coats

    What can I use to grain fill. We don't have things like Aqua clear grain filler and other similar clear coat products in South Africa.

    What do you guys use?
     
  2. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'm thinking something like Peeb does here, but what's the mixture ratio's ect?
     
  3. SFPicker

    SFPicker TDPRI Member

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    I've used wood filler. Dilute it and brush it on the whole body, and then sand it all off and seal. You could try to match the color or use black to highlight the pores.
     
  4. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    What about resin the fibreglassers/surfboard makers use?.... mix up a bit with hardener, paint it on to load up the pores, then scrape it back with a Ccard type edge, so you don't have a lot of sanding to get it flat...

    that'll work..... ;)
     
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  5. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    I've been grain filling a body by wet sanding with tru oil. It mixes with the wood dust making a slurry and gradually fills small grain drying clear but will build an amber tint. Much the same process as preeb but you don't have to mix your own. It's a slow way of doing it but it wont upset the nitro when its time to spray. You can also tint tru oil with colortone wood stain.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2019
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  6. ieatlions

    ieatlions Tele-Meister

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    Always use Rustins
    196CEE9C-BEF8-41B1-9396-1C8771B04F4F.jpeg
     
  7. Crafty Fox

    Crafty Fox Tele-Afflicted

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    IMG_5111.jpg


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    I use West Systems epoxy for grain & pore filling. We don't have a lot of choice here in the Mild West, but I've heard that Bote Cote epoxy may be even better.
    I apply sparingly (the more you put on, the more you'll be sanding back).
    I've had great results under nitro.
     
  8. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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  9. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Holic

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    Tru-oil has worked for me.
     
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  10. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

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    I just used Z-Poxy for the first time on my Build 3 and it did an outstanding job grain filling on the sapele for that instrument.
     
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  11. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Holic

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    This is just my own experience, and may or may not match anyone else's. ;).

    On ash, I've used both Aqua-Coat and Behlens/Mohawk paste oil-based filler.

    Aqua-Coat is water-based and goes on as a semi-opaque filler that looks like lard, but it dries clear. Super easy to sand. Very easy to use. Dries relatively quickly. The body color remains the same as before, but the grain is filled.

    Clear epoxy is a whole different animal, but looks very similar.

    It sounds like AQ isn't available in your part of the world, but there may be a similar water-based product.



    Oil-based paste filler is opaque and retains color after it dries. As it dries, it's color lightens. I use the "natural" color and may or may not alter it's color to suit my needs. Coloring depends on if you'd like to just fill the grain or accent it or make it stand out more.

    The "natural" color filler on ash dries so it looks almost transparent - if you finish it with a clear coat, it really does look like the "natural" color. If you finish it with a blond toner, the grain will appear "grayer". No doubt, other colors of toner or tinted clear coats will give different variations.

    If you color the "natural" oil-based grain filler or buy a color other than natural you're going to get a different look.

    I haven't done too much experimenting on ash beyond that, but it's the best way for me to find out how a piece is going to look to my own eyes. I think the way we see colors and tones is somewhat subjective, so it's always best to run the experiment all the way through so we can see the results with our own eyes.

    Have fun :).


    g
     
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  12. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Mix some shellac flakes.
     
  13. Dick Hutchings

    Dick Hutchings TDPRI Member

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    Damn those are beautiful.
     
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  14. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'm going to try this today thx
     
  15. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    The resin thing works, although I find if you leave it too thick it take forever to remove/sand.
    I dig Aqua clear as a clear filler and timbermate for colored.
     
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  16. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Mohawk is an RPM product, and RPM is available worldwide. Do you have any contractor-oriented paint stores that sell lacquers there? That's where you'll find Mohawk, Timbermate and related grain fillers.

    Also check surf shops for Solar-eze resin products. You'll need to do some internet diving for instructions as a grain filler.

    Tru Oil is NOT a grain filler! It won't level the surface of ash without addition of a clear aggregate/filler.
     
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  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Ok so there was good and bad

    I used some polyester resin with METP cat. that I had at home (just hardware store stuff), not proper sanding resin or finishing resin as the board shapers use (in hindsight I should have asked one of my shaping buddies rather)

    The stuff I used, stay tacky and didn't bond everywhere properly to the sanding sealer. I removed some of it with thinners and the rest I sanded with 60 grit removing everything back to sealer.

    The good thing is, most of the pours are filled, and what's not filled is very little grain showing, so I'm happy to proceed

    This is after a final sanding sealer layer (400/600 grit sanded), just to be sure everything is covered by sealer before spraying nitrocellulose
    IMG_20191124_074834.jpeg
     
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