Oops - Am I hosed?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Mr_Q, Mar 26, 2019.

  1. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    Short version...
    Stopped by the lumber yard and picked up lumber for my first Tele body, brain cramp or old age...I got 1.5" stock instead of 1.75". It's poplar, since I planned to paint the body.

    Can I use it anyway? I'm not concerned about authentic reproduction, it's a non standard shape. I suspect the blade switch is the likely problem area. Would it fit into a 1.25" deep control cavity?

    My options as I see them:
    1) Go buy different wood for the body (Pay attention this time)
    2) Put a 1/4" cap on it. (Again painted body, no point in buying pretty wood for the top.)
    3) Use it with a different switch.

    Appreciate any help people can give.

    Q.
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  3. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    Hollow it out to reduce weight and cap it.
     
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  4. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    I dont know the situation in Iowa, but at Lowes around here you can get a 1/4" piece of poplar, 8" × 48", for less than $10. Easily makes a top with material to spare. Hopefully something similar for you!

    I've got just such a poplar thinline in progress....
     
  5. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    The Affinity Teles were 1.5". Should be ok.

    It wouldn't work for a Strat with afull size trem block though.
     
  6. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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    I'd cap it. Like you said, painted body so nobody will ever know. Well, we will but we won't tell anybody.
     
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  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Really, I'd suspect that they were 1.625" or the metric equivalent like the Squier stuff.
     
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  8. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    You are probably right @guitarbuilder.
    I'm not sure I ever measured one.
    Looked like 1.5" to me.
     
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  9. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    Thanks, guys. Like Bob Ross said, "There are no mistakes, only happy accidents." I think the right answer is to take this opportunity to chamber and cap it. @RiversQC , thanks for the Lowe's tip. I went over there and was able to source the 1/4" stock pretty affordably.

    So when I router our the chambers, how deep do I go? It seems like I ought to leave 3/8" to 1/2" in the back/bottom.
     
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  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The rout depths are 1-1/2 from the top for the controls, .687 for the neck and neck pickup, and .850 for the bridge pickup. IIRC. Chambering can be what ever you want, but you should leave material under the bridge. Most people probably leave at least 1/4" thick on the back in chambers too. The REV D drawing below.


    tdowns.png
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  11. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    For chambers, I would go to about 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. All depends on how much weight you want reduced.

    Make sure you don't chamber where the bridge needs to attach. That's a mistake I made on my most recent build and had to glue in a scrap piece.
     
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  12. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    Thanks again. I was planning a belly cut, so I may avoid chambering that area, or make it, shallow or stepped.
    Does a cap mean that I can't have an arm contour? It seems like I'd go right through the cap.
     
  13. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Nope. No arm contout. I always go 1.25" when I chamber a tele. That's with a 1.50" body and .25 cap. That leaves enough room for the controls.

    This is the plan for the template I use for clambering.
     

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  14. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Either cap it, or use a 3 way toggle switch. If you don’t cap, you’re still good to go to to a belly cut and arm contour. That’s exactly what I did with my last Strat build, set up with P90’s.

    You can sorta see the belly cut and arm contour I did here. Obviously not major cuts, but comfortable for a 1 1/2 inch thick body.

    36F0B51B-AFD3-462F-9901-526AF3CC1B05.jpeg

    06E09545-C9A0-48BB-BEAC-E758C6D7641F.jpeg
     
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  15. DHart

    DHart Friend of Leo's

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    You want plenty of depth for the control cavity, and for contouring the body.

    Is that piece of wood that you bought particularly special to you? Would the cost of buying another piece of wood be prohibitive?

    Given the amount of effort & time in making the guitar, and the life of the instrument ahead of you... I'd just start with another piece of wood - unless the cost of another slab is too much.
     
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  16. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    Thanks. I'll use that plan for the chambering template.

    Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
     
  17. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    I could swing the cost of new wood. It's not special, just poplar.
    But there is something that feels right about embracing the goof and owning it. My error provided an opportunity to learn about chambering a body. So while that's an unplanned detour I guess I'm going there.

    It's only my first scratch build. I'm sure there will be more.
    Thanks for the guidance.

    Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
     
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  18. Mr_Q

    Mr_Q Tele-Meister

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    Nice work. What's the wood?

    Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
     
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  19. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Make sure you leave enough material around the edges for your router to ride on.
     
  20. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Just cap it and don't do anything else. In other words, glue on a 1/4" cap (actually, back) with no chambering and then treat it like a solid piece of wood. Make the exact guitar, with arm and belly cuts, etc. than you had originally planned. paint it solid color as you planned and if you do decent glue joints it'll never show. But just in case, you can make the capped side the BACK side of the guitar as there might have been a glue joint showing in your arm forearm cut. That's the ideal way to deal with mistakes - in a way that allows you to achieve exactly what you'd originally planned. It's OK to fix a mistake by taking the build in a different direction but that's not ideal, IMO.

    Or save that board for a different build that it will be perfect for and get yourself a new 1 3/4" plank for this build...

    All the best of luck.

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
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