Now the sander is in the garage. The shop vac in the shed is pretty plugged but still works. I take a pass without the dust collector connected to the sander.
Last edited:
One man's trash is another man's trashy Dolphin Nose bass
- Thread starter guitarbuilder
- Start date
It was working but the wind was blowing dust everywhere, so I just went and got out the wet dry and hooked it up. It's interesting that the wet dry pipe doesn't fit a reducer which doesn't fit the sander....nothing fits. I taped it temporarily and will have to source out better parts I guess. Anyway things got sanded to 1.125 thick. The Jet sander works like a champ even in 30 degree temps and with poor vacuum.
GunsOfBrixton
Friend of Leo's
Trying to find shop vac adapters for power tools is a pain. Tape comes in handy. I just bought a set for my dewalt cordless saw. None fit right. And none of them fit my chop saw either. Luckily they were only $8 or so.
Rockler has some options for that.
I’ve taken to 3D printing adaptors for my power tools - it’s very easy to whip up a design which exactly matches the diameters you need, they don’t take too long to print either:
Having said that, since I printed these I upgraded to a Trend T35A dust extractor, and the stepped adaptor which came with that has been uncannily good at fitting a lot of my tools.
Having said that, since I printed these I upgraded to a Trend T35A dust extractor, and the stepped adaptor which came with that has been uncannily good at fitting a lot of my tools.
Dan Skammer
Tele-Meister
I have the same bass, an original '63 , I bought in the late 80's from Want Ad Digest from a college kid in Ct for $200..I got Joey Spampinato from NRBQ to sign it years ago..he played one as well..
I thought of that yesterday. My 3d printer is kind of idle most days so it could be a good winter project. A bit loose would be better than tight on the tolerances too.
I positioned the top between the wide edges. I'm good but there wasn't as much spare room as I would like normally. I drew a pencil line around the top. I was thinking how am I going to keep the top from sliding. I generated some alternatives.
A few times I've glued blocks down. I'd have to wait for the glue to dry.
I only had 4 brads in the bottle. That's not enough. I didn't want to drill holes to be plugged later either.
I didn't have any round toothpicks.
The only wood dowel I had was .5 dia...too fat.
Then I remembered I uncovered some kabob skewers in the kitchen..... and kabobs your uncle. They were between 1/8 and 7/64 wide.
A few times I've glued blocks down. I'd have to wait for the glue to dry.
I only had 4 brads in the bottle. That's not enough. I didn't want to drill holes to be plugged later either.
I didn't have any round toothpicks.
The only wood dowel I had was .5 dia...too fat.
Then I remembered I uncovered some kabob skewers in the kitchen..... and kabobs your uncle. They were between 1/8 and 7/64 wide.
I drilled 7/64 holes in strategic locations. I clipped the skewer into shorter pieces with my fret nippers. I tapped them in flush.
Then I taped some cauls to the bottom. I spread the glue.
I got the top in there and put some cauls on top and used a bunch of clamps. The long one in the middle is from Harbor Freight... a good clamp to have for deep clamping.
12 in. Deep Throat C-Clamp (harborfreight.com)
8 in. Deep Throat C-Clamp (harborfreight.com)
12 in. Deep Throat C-Clamp (harborfreight.com)
8 in. Deep Throat C-Clamp (harborfreight.com)
I think I got mine for 50 dollars at our local flea market. For a number of years before Ebay, I could get a lot of good deals. Ludwig snares for 10 dollars. Lots of Chicago made instruments for 10 dollars each. Ebay and Antiques Roadshow kind of ruined it to some degree.
Well no snow today so although it is cold we can rout in the shed. Bitteroot got the rod to me 2 days ago so again....kudos to him/them on the fast shipping, especially this week. These import rods take a 1/4" slot and bit. I found the center and lined up the fence.
I made a mark on the fence and the neck where to plunge the neck, as I think the fretboard is only about 3/8" longer than the rod. I took a pass about 1/8" deep.
Then a couple more passes until the rod sat just a hair below the wood. The bottom of these rods are not parallel to the top rod, which is why I prefer a hot rod from stewmac. Thus we need to fuss with slot to accomodate the nut and the slight taper. Not a huge deal...but it's still more work than a hotrod.
I used step drill to progressively get from 1/4 to 3/8 as a pilot for my 3/8 twist drill.
And finally the fussy part. Drill, scrape, chisel until it fits.
An hour later I took off the clamps. I cut off the waste making relief cuts in the cutaway so the blade wouldn't bind there. I trimmed off as much as I could.
Then on to the edge sander. The belt is a bit worn and it was taking longer than I thought it would. Time for a new belt. I did what I could and then decided to flush trim the rest off. The body is 1.125 plus the top which is a hair over .25.
The cutter is 1"long by .5 dia. This means I had to lower the bit and do the remainder.
Sanding close and using a Whiteside bit...no tearout to speak of.
I do have defects to fill anyway, so that's why I wasn't concerned with the inevitable tearout when doing this perimeter flush trim rout procedure.
The cutter is 1"long by .5 dia. This means I had to lower the bit and do the remainder.
Sanding close and using a Whiteside bit...no tearout to speak of.
I do have defects to fill anyway, so that's why I wasn't concerned with the inevitable tearout when doing this perimeter flush trim rout procedure.
crazydave911
Doctor of Teleocity
My kind of Dano body 
