50 degrees is great this time of year. I superglued the fret ends and I beveled them with the Don Teeter beveler. I compressed the barbs along the length of the neck with 3 clamps to the workbench. I took a safe edge file and radiused the fret ends to the eased edge to get those sharp points off and then hit it all with 220 grit. I guess it's time to go sand the neck some more and work on other things like a pickguard and body routs.
I printed out a drawing of the saddle. I was able to procure a bass bridge but it lacked a saddle. I could buy a saddle but what's the fun in that.....
Then I sanded it to the line and shaped it. I used a truss rod cover screw for attachment. Once I have this together maybe I'll do something more clever than Dan did. For now it will work.
I hunted around for some furniture trim washers but only found one. I decided to use the MIC individual neck screw bushings I had on hand. The screws are a bit wider than Fender and shorter which is good for this application. I had marked and remembered this has a truss rod, so the placement had to be outside that. These are metric so I ended up using a 5/8 forstner which provides a centered dent for the neck operation to drill the neck holes.
To drill the neck holes, I clamped it down and used a smaller diameter screw for pilot holes. I drilled one and installed the screw and bushing. then moved onto another one.
Once the neck was mounted, I measured back and down to find the scale length location. I drew a mark there at the bottom of the little machinist's square.
Once the scale length line was determined, I pushed the saddle up to the top of the bridge. The mounting holes are about 1/4" back, so I measured and drew a second line there. I centered the bridge to the lines and centerline. I marked the holes.