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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by TRexF16, Mar 22, 2019.
Oh ye of little faith...
Guys this is a fantastic thread! You make things look so easy, sign of true mastery.
I'm looking into winding pickups of my own, so I have a couple of questions if you don't mind @Barncaster.
So if I understand correctly, you connect the strings/bridge/baseplate to the lead? You don't use a separate ground wire to connect to the common ground of the rest of the wiring ? Doesn't this make the circuit more prone to catching interference ?
Second, about the wax: what prevents you from using only beeswax ? Is it economical considerations ? Or is beeswax not hardening enough ? I'm asking because I try to use less artificial chemicals in my builds, and am looking to replace oil-based wax.
Total faith, my brother. Total faith.
It's just that someday the pickup might get changed out for one without a baseplate, you never know. I've got at least three Tele single coil bridge pickups without a base plate and almost none of the humbucking Tele bridge shaped pickups have a base plate.
Just think about the basic ground path in a standard Tele. The bridge pickup baseplate is jumpered to the pickup ground lead which is soldered to the back of a grounded pot. That base plate is connected to the bridge via 3 metal adjustment screws which in effect grounds the bridge, saddles and strings. So why run the extra bridge ground wire? The only valid reason I can think of is if you are using a bridge pickup that doesn't have a metal base plate as Rex suggested.
As far as this ground method causing extra noise; I have never found it to be the case. For general 60 cycle noise reduction, I twist all my Tele pickup leads and shield the control and pickup cavities as well as the back of the pickguards with grounded copper tape with conductive adhesive. I find these modifications reliably help quiet single coil-equipped instruments.
Concerning wax, bees wax has constituents which keep it from getting crumbly with age. Because of the cost of bees wax, most people stretch their potting batches with paraffin. Straight bees wax has an almost identical melting point as paraffin so if you can swing straight bees wax, by all means do so. A good source of inexpensive clean bees wax is BW candles from estate sales. These sales are also great places to find vintage tools and fasteners.
Ah, thank you Rex. That is good to hear.
Is BW bees wax?
How can you tell if a candle is bees wax?
Yes BW is bees wax. BW candles typically have a creamy mustard color and usually look a little rustic. In reality, any wax candle that you find at say an estate sale is a source of usable wax and the prices will be extremely reasonable. And your pickups will have whatever scent the candles have so beware. I like pine scent myself. Rob
Rob's lovely pickups arrived in the mail today, as did the Allparts pickguard. It's not beveled, but rather squared edged like a classic 5-screw blackguard. I'll leave it that way for now - I can always bevel it later if I want to. I laid out where the Tele neck pickup should go by tracing a normal Tele guard. Then I figure I'll just use my Strat pickguard routing template to enlarge it while keeping it centered. The neck pocket is too tight on this guard (a happy thing which means I can fit it perfectly by scraping.
Also I now have the second coat of Z-poxy on both sides. I have some ideas about how to I'm going to get ready for the flake that I'll bounce off y'all when the time comes.
Is it DPP yet?
I think they stay the same color, haven't gone the extra mile to find out though.
No, but it shouldn't be too much longer - "film at 11"
So here's the plan. I found these in my paint stocks the other day:
An almost-full can of white nitro primer, an almost full can of Duplicolor White Pearl, and enough TransTint bright red to stain every shirt in Arizona. Have a test piece of the Spanish Cedar that I had already put two coats of the Z-Poxy on, and sanded flat to 320. Last night I sprayed three coats of the white primer. Interestingly, the can only recommends 5 minutes between wet coats so that went fast. Then the crazy thing is they say to only wait 15-20 minutes to sand and topcoat. But I gave it overnight. came out slick and flat as could be:
I dry sanded this with 320 tonight and it was dead flat, and hit it with a thin coat of the White Pearl.
The plan is to top coat this unsanded White Pearl tomorrow with Watco clear nitro tinted with the bright red TransTint. I hope this will result in a pink pearl look, over which I will shoot the DPP flake-laden clear nitro.
That should work. You're essentially mixing up candy red tinting the clear nitro. Back in the '70's for a while guys were doing candy over white pearl. Was a softer effect than silver or gold base. Go easy on the TransTint, you don't want it to go red too fast if you're looking for a pinkish shade.
Sweeeeeeeeet. It’s probably going to be heavy 60’s dune buggy flake anyway!
I know it’s more work but maybe do parallel samples with a silver or gold base along with the white base and let a review in the noon sun make the decision? My $0.02.
If you don’t, you’re (your... LOL) always going to wonder.
I'm going to shoot some transiting this afternoon that I mixed yesterday. I may already have it too concentrated, so I think I will mask off half my white pearl test piece before I shoot the test, so if it reddens up too much I can go back and cut the mixture. and still have a surface to test on. Thanks for that advice.
That's an idea Rob, but I'd have to buy the gold and silver lacquer and I don't know if I want to spring for the coin for that just to do a test strip. Of course, if I ended up liking one of them then I would use up some of the rest on the build.
What are your suggestions to source such a product? I don't want to go with the enamel rattlecans that are most common. I guess I could look for some Duplicolor (acrylic lacquer) but what I've seen of theirs is not nearly obnoxious enough for this application - it's more subdued like a decent car color.
The darkest area is the first spray. Like 100orgtr thought, by the time I got enough on for the color to be even, it was pretty red. So I cut the mix to half strength and sprayed again, this time leaving a white band in the middle so I can also see what a white undercoat looks like with the flake.
I sprinkled just a pinch of flake on the darker side right after spraying it - that's what you're seeing there. Tomorrow I'll shoot some flake and we'll see how it goes.
Very interesting build Rex. This will be a stunning work of art.
Rob, thanks for sharing your process. Always a treat to watch your magical work.