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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by TRexF16, Mar 22, 2019.
Rex, with you building and Rob winding the pickups, it will be a great one.
2.0mm HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun Kit Auto Car Detail Touch Up Paint Sprayer Spot Repair 600cc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZJ72WJ/?tag=tdpri-20
Here is a 2.0 gun from amazon for 24$
I have used this one and it worked well.
I just checked the HF gun I used for my sparkle guitar and the tip says 1.4. My sparkle was .015 and I had no issues.
Yeah, stay away from the black. When I did my bike I used a white base coat under the flake to keep it and the candy bright since I didn't go 100% coverage with the flake because of the candy. I would say even with 100% coverage, which I think you would want to do to get the whole effect of the hallowed DPP, I'd go with a white or pink base just on the off chance there's a pinhole in the flake.
Sorry for the off topic, but yeah, that skit fits perfectly for the situation, huh? That tribe of Comedians was GREAT!
Added later in EDIT: What does the DPP acronym stand for? Is it the color on the jar of flakes in the first post?
I know Candy Apple Red traditionally was shot over silver. Keeping a metallic under the flake may augment the effect vs white. Then again, if its a really heavy flake application, it may not matter. Things to ponder whilst communing on the commode.
Yes indeed. The Jar is labeled, saving me the threat of being banned from the site; Ill just let you read it
Interesting idea Rob.
I may drop by the auto parts store today and see if there's a Dupli color metallic rattle-can that looks like it'd be a good background. I've used their white pearl and red pearl with good results in the past.
Thanks for the idea.
I got a little time to work tonight. I routed the neck pocket, then laid out the Wilkinson bridge, drilled the mounting holes and wanged 'er down.
I always use the bridge itself to drill the through holes. I drill right through the holes in the bridge but only about 3/8" deep. The holes in the steel bridge guide the drill bit and make sure everything lines up pretty. For the Wilkinson I find a #31 bit (.120") is a perfect fit, and I have a drilling plate jig for doing the ferrule holes with a .120" pin to guide it. I'll show this when I get to that step this weekend.
I had calculated this body to be 2.9 pounds based on my measurements of the board I cut it from, and it looks pretty close.
I'm going to take the body in to work tomorrow and weigh it on this Gucci scale our Life Support guys have. I'll get a precise weight from that and share it in the next post. The only significant wood removal remaining is the 7/8" hole for the jack. The remaining holes are trivial.
Oh, and speaking of work, I gave my 30-day notice this morning. Unless I get roped into some kind of consulting or other "commercial defense services" flying, it's 7-day weekends for me starting 27 April.
Congrats Rex! Hope to see lots of builds..
Congrats! I’m closing in on retirement soon (a year or so, I think) too. Can’t wait to have more time for the things *I* want to do, instead of solving problems for others.
Hi Rex! No liberated wood in this build? Have you been taking instruction from Jupe????
If so can we expect to see this unit about 2021??
Yeah, I expect the monkey pictures to start showing up any day now. Actually I have a pretty full plate so I'm going to try to keep this build on track. Barncaster has the pickups finished and is planning to post a mini build thread on them today or tomorrow.
I had measured and weighed the board I made this body from before I did the glue-up and calculated a finished weight about 2.9 pounds. I put it on the fancy scale in Life Support this morning. Looks like my figgerin' was pretty close:
I'm guessing if I had used a regular tele neck pickup rout I'd have been about spot on.
This wood is really soft, so after I screwed down the bridge to drill the starters for the through holes, and then removed it, I soaked those holes pretty well with water-thin CA to harden up that wood a bit The darkening around that area is from wiping up the excess. Both for build speed and to also harden the wood a bit, I think I am going to use Z-Poxy for the pore fill. I still haven't made it by the auto store to see if there's a sparkly pink Duplicolor to shoot as a base for the flake, but I also might shoot a coat or two of white shellac-based BIN primer between the Z-Poxy and whatever goes on top next. Does anybody have an opinion about that one way or the other?
I used the BIN under Duplicolor Toyota White Pearl for the Baladcaster II and it worked fine (so far).
Thanks in advance for any input on the finishing layers.
Hey Rex, I've seen shellac based BIN peel off of surfaces that were too smooth.
Thanks - maybe I'll bag that idea.
All special DPP guitars need special pickups and this guitar is no exception. General Parameters:
Bridge - Healthy resistance at 7+k, A5 mags w/ vintage low-gauss, white bridge upper flatwork, white rope, min build 42AWG
Neck - Strat form factor based on a rebuild of a Fender Fat 50s. Mid 50s resistance of upper 5k with staggered A5 mags w/ vintage low gauss, min build 42 AWG
It started like this:
Bridge first; use the neo bars and appropriate spacers to individually charge the rods and give us nice vintage gauss levels.
To make magnet insertion a little cleaner and easier, I like to put a small chamfer on the flatwork to help center the magnets upon insertion. A simple chamfer tool is used.
Magnets are arrayed on the bench-top with like polarities all in one direction. The bridge pickup is north up because this set is noise cancelling in the middle position requiring the neck pickup magnets to be south up. The vice with aluminum inserts is used to press in the rods individually. Some day I may have more elaborate and efficient assembly fixtures made, but not just yet.
Notice that the lead grommets have their flanges on the bottom? This is done as they tend to catch coil wire when winding, so i just invert the bottom flatwork.