OK, it's time for a DPP Tele.

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by TRexF16, Mar 22, 2019.

  1. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Holy Smokes! I'd be crazy not to take you up on that offer! I'll shoot you a PM.
    Rex
     
  2. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Actually we are planning to buy it for a family member. It'll need a lot of renovation but I have nothing but time on my hands now, right?

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
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  3. Bikersluggo

    Bikersluggo Tele-Holic

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    I just caught this thread. A few comments: First, your woodworking is so clean! I'm jealous. I always seem to end up with burn marks or bondo filled spots. Second, heed Jupiter's comment about the lacquer sinking. I did a sparkly gold jazzmaster years ago and just last night decided to tear it down and re-sand it because of dimples. Question: when you wet sand, do you do anything to keep water out of the screw holes so the wood doesn't swell there?
     
  4. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

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    You can use wax (like bees wax) or paste wax to fill the holes. Or do what I do, use mineral spirits instead of water. That also reduces the loading on the sand paper.
     
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  5. tewiq

    tewiq Tele-Meister

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    yup mineral spirits, do it outside , but once you try this you will never go back (unless its winter time) it has a smell to deal with, wax also works (for the winter time) :D
     
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  6. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Couple things - I tried changing to mineral spirits and got a far poorer finish than with water so I did go back. I use warm water with a drop or two of dish soap dissolved.
    I used to plug the holes with wax but changed to just not drilling any holes except the neck and bridge holes until after the finish is complete - so fewer worries. Of the neck and bridge holes the only ones that "show" on the finish are the ferrules on the back. I put a bit of tape across them for the main wet sanding of the back, then do a very light dry sand right over those holes, then polish. For the others, I still mask them off but only wet sand up to the point where the bridge and neck plate fully cover - I don't worry about a full polish under the neck or bridge plate. I'll post a little trick I learned for drilling the holes in the cured and polished lacquer - gotta go dig it out from another thread.

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
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  7. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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  8. Bikersluggo

    Bikersluggo Tele-Holic

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    I dripped candle wax into all the holes and used water. I originally built this thing in 2010, so 9 years should be enough to let the lacquer fully cure. I got it all flat and polished in one night. Thanks guys!
     
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