OK, first full day with the 5E3

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Paul G., Apr 26, 2019.

  1. Paul G.

    Paul G. Friend of Leo's

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    Finally got to turn it up and learned some things, made some changes.

    First, lots of people suggested lowering the tone cap from .0047uf to something like 680 or 820pf, so I put in a 680pf in the original build. The idea is to raise the cutoff point so the mids and gain are unaffected while allowing you to cut the harsh trebles. Verdict: didn't like it, maybe I went too low, but the tone control wasn't progressive, somewhat dull from 1-4, ok from 5-8, then bitey above, almost like a 3-way switch. And that was on the Bright channel. On the Normal channel it did almost nothing. So, back to stock value and I like it.

    Second, with my Teles, this thing was unbelievable, which makes sense because, Fender. But when I plugged in a Gibson, wow was it bassy and flubby. The thing was actually walking across the wooden floor, and when I hit a real low note, the amp literally jumped. Low gain input helped but this was not going to fly. Changed the coupling cap on the Bright Channel to a .022uf, and it is much better, tighter clearer bass, no flopping. If it sounds too thin with a Tele, I've got the normal channel, and since the inputs are in phase, I can do the old Bassman/Marshall channel jump if I want to add some fatness back. Best of both worlds.

    Much better. While I was in there, I touched up two hincky joints, and added a little rubber pad between the chassis and back panel to stop a rattle.

    I had a good day.

    Can't wait to take it out this weekend.
     
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  2. twangking

    twangking Friend of Leo's

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    I very much like one with my asat special. Notes won't stop ringing with the amp turned up halfway.
     
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  3. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Afflicted

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    Sounds like I need to build one....

    ...except we have gone "amp less"....

    Heresy I know but is there a pedal that would get that sound?

    I'll probably build a 5E3 anyway...
     
  4. jman72

    jman72 Tele-Afflicted

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    Great! When I built mine I changed the first three coupling caps to 0.022 and last two to 0.047 (all from the stock 0.1 caps). This really keeps things tight and I never have any flubby bass.
     
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  5. No457 Snowy

    No457 Snowy Tele-Meister

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    I found the same as you with the Tone cap mod. I also found the cleans weren't as sweet either and I think it might be because the stock value pulled a chunk of the mids down also and that helps sweeten the cleans. I put my tone cap back to the stock value.
     
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  6. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Doctor of Teleocity

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    So as far as I can tell, a 5E3 is like a Deluxe?

    Still trying to figure out what a 5F1 et.al relate to. You amp guys bewilder me just about as fast as the theory guys.

    Congrats on the amp.
     
  7. Ricky D.

    Ricky D. Doctor of Teleocity

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    A 5E3 is a tweed Deluxe, 1959 I think.

    I built mine with the original component values. I use an EQ pedal to cut the flubbing when I play a humbucker guitar through it.
     
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  8. Paul G.

    Paul G. Friend of Leo's

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    Narrow panel Tweed Deluxe. 1955 to 1960. Cathode bias, 2 channels, 1 Tone control, Instrument channel (Bright), Microphone channel (Normal), 4 inputs. 12 to 14 watts, more or less.
     
  9. Chicago Matt

    Chicago Matt Friend of Leo's

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    I also prefer lower values on the coupling caps. Changing speakers really changes things up with these. I tried 5 speakers in mine. Like many others, I settled on a Weber 12A125A. Big, tighter bass and chimey treble without being harsh. Of course, it's subjective. What speaker is in yours?
     
  10. Paul G.

    Paul G. Friend of Leo's

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    WGS G12Q. Once I lowered the coupling cap the speaker seems just fine. Only way to know for sure is to a) break it in, and b) play it some more. So far I like it, but time will tell.

    I played a used Clark Beaufort with a Tone Tubby alnico and thought it lacked any sparkle.
     
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  11. Piggy Stu

    Piggy Stu Friend of Leo's

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    I think 5 is the decade, the letter is the year, and the last number is whatever was designated the number 1 circuit that year

    If I got this right, a 6A9 would be the 9th circuit variant being used in 1960 - if they were even using 9 patterns that year
     
  12. Uncle Daddy

    Uncle Daddy Tele-Afflicted

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    Wampler Tweed 57. Now discontinued

     
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  13. Mase

    Mase Tele-Meister

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    Any chance you could share what setting you use ? just got a 5e3 type still trying to dial it in, so to speak.
     
  14. Paul G.

    Paul G. Friend of Leo's

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    Pretty close:

    The 1st number denotes the year:

    5 = 1950’s era
    6 = 1960’s era

    The 2nd letter denotes the year that corresponds to the cabinet type:

    A = 1950-51, TV Front
    B = 1952-53, TV Front, Wide Panel
    C = 1953-54, Wide Panel
    D = 1954-55, Wide Panel
    E = 1955-61, Narrow Panel
    F = 1956-61, Narrow Panel
    G = 1960-64, Brown, Blonde, and Early Black Tolex

    The 3rd Number denotes the amp model:

    1 = Champion or Champ
    2 = Princeton
    3 = Deluxe
    4 = Super
    5 = Pro
    6 = Bassman
    7 = Bandmaster
    8 = Twin
    9 = Tremolux
    10 = Harvard
    11 = Vibrolux
    12 = Concert
    13 = Vibrasonic
    14 = Showman
    15 = Outboard Reverb Unit of the Pre-CBS Period
    16 = Vibroverb

    A Letter following the 3rd number denotes a revision of the amps circuit. For example 5F6-A or 5E4-A.
     
  15. Ricky D.

    Ricky D. Doctor of Teleocity

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    I've got an old Ibanez single band parametric pedal. I set it around 60 hours by ear and cut it hard, pretty narrow Q. It's all by ear. If you are using a graphic, just cut the lowest band.

    The flub is caused by the inability of the power supply to give the tubes the current they need at low frequencies.
     
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  16. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Afflicted

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    There is a vero version of the wampler tweed 57.

    http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/wampler-tweed-57.html?m=1

    It’s a little tricky because it uses J201 jfets. You need to play with the resistor values to ensure yours measure 4.5V at the drain. Since J201’s are not made anymore, you need to get the SMD versions and use an adapter board.
     
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  17. JMac61

    JMac61 NEW MEMBER!

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    Anyone have the cabinet chassis cutout on the 1955 Deluxe small box?
     
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