OD-1, SD-1, custom mod.OD, swollen pickle mkii fuzz, OCD (vero builds)

owlexifry

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rather than annoying everyone and posting a thread for each build, i thought i’d a share a batch of builds from the last month or so instead..


OD-1:
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being the historically important seminal circuit that brought us the SD-1 and TS-808, i absolutely had to try this one out.
the simplicity and absence of a tone control makes for a very satisfying build, especially with the quad opamp.
Surprisingly capable, sounds fantastic to my ears, but perhaps a little bright/thin (would be perfect if i could 'dial in' some more low-mid/low end)


SD-1:
0BAF1ED5-1029-4B5A-8DC1-FB180E7F6EE3.jpeg A7BE126C-6F35-420C-83E8-121E670B3DFF.jpeg
just finished this one yesterday.
i already had an SD-1 build w/ pedalpcb board in a hammond enclosure, but after recently re-discovering how much i love this circuit, i really wanted to do an SD-1 vero build.
something about this circuit that just cuts with a pleasant high end bite that the TS/OD808 seems to lack.


(MXR) custom badass modified OD:
5A8E502B-1B1A-4202-A89F-3D192FE1F73B.jpeg 2CCC8AB3-6678-4A43-AA73-9AFC42F141A3.jpeg
a similar circuit to SD-1 and mxr GT-OD, the lure of the 100Hz boost/cut control with this variant was the main motivator.
Very hot output, huge amount of gain. Almost too much for me. Very spicy overdrive.


(way huge) swollen pickle mkii fuzz:
5EE29AFB-A9FE-47FD-A1EF-C29EDBA6CAF6.jpeg 9C0CBC38-F0B6-4ED2-93D4-DA499B7986CF.jpeg
1st fuzz pedal build. i never really use fuzz pedals....
but then i noticed a band i like the sound of, actually uses this pedal stacked on top of an overdrive for certain riffs and it adds this incredible hugeness, excessive but pleasant saturation, whilst retaining some structure/tightness thanks to the preceding OD.
I never expected a fuzz pedal to add so much bottom end, it's like a bass button / doom-boom button (when used as described above).
Not something ill use very often, but this build was a lot of fun.


OCD ('V3'):
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I got sucked in by the lure of the unknown. supposedly what makes this circuit unique is the use of x2 mosfet transistors (2N7000) as a hard clipping pair.
Despite the praise this circuit receives across quite a range of styles/tones, it did nothing for me. Loose as a goose, fizzy, muddy, just not my jam.
Oh well. Hopefully one day I can give this to someone that will enjoy it.
 

cousinpaul

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On the OD-1, you might try swapping the. HP filter's 4k7 resistor for a 6k8. That would move the filter's threshold from 723 hz to right around 500hz. Works great for an SD-1 too.

On another note, I was recently gifted a Box of Rock copy (Madbean Broomstick). I'm liking it a lot. A BoR or Distortron might be a fun build for your next series.
 

owlexifry

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These look great. Which is your favorite?
ay thanks! they're not as pretty as etched out hammond enclosures, but i find a certain charm with repurposing used/old tins + dymo.

if the CBM-OD wasn't so wildly gainy/compressed, that would be the one.
otherwise, SD-1 (or the OD808 i did on a another thread)

On the OD-1, you might try swapping the. HP filter's 4k7 resistor for a 6k8. That would move the filter's threshold from 723 hz to right around 500hz. Works great for an SD-1 too.
many thanks for the tip!
funny you mention that... when i built the board, i intentionally socketed C3 (in series with that 4K7) and C4 (in NFB loop of 2nd opamp stage), with the intention of trying different cap values to optimize the EQ response.

C4, i found, was just right (any than lower than the stock 18nf would be too harsh for me).

but i haven't tried adjusting C3 yet.
my understanding is that adjustment of either C3 or that 4K7, will have the same effect:

1660092716137.png


eg. if i increase C3 to 56nF --> i get roughly 500 hz - might try this....

(but yes, it does appear that adjustment of the 4K7 value would be more precise --> ie. better incremental range with resistors vs caps)

On another note, I was recently gifted a Box of Rock copy (Madbean Broomstick). I'm liking it a lot. A BoR or Distortron might be a fun build for your next series.
ayy looks like there's layouts available for both of these (zvex)..


im not really into distortion circuits, although i'm seriously considering trying out a good ol RAT.
(i generally use drive pedals as boosts into crunchy / high gain amps)

@owlexifry very nice work. Those are tinney I mean tiny builds. How does the Altoid tin hold up to being stomped on?
cheers! it all started with a DOD250 clone.... then i thought, gee i wonder what else i can fit into an altoids tin..

all the altoids builds ive done have been drives.
for me, these are 'always on' type effects. so i'm not stomping on them in the dark, on stage, mid-song, or anything like that. so it's a non-issue.
once you've bolted in all the hardware, and wire it all up, they're not as flimsy as you'd think.
(especially if you use heavy gauge wire --> i got sick to death of small wiring tearing off the boards, so ive since opted for the largest gauge that will fit in the 0.9mm holed veroboards.. i think it's something like 22awg)
 
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cousinpaul

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I get 605 hz with a .056 cap and 4k7 resistor and 498hz with a .068uf cap. IIRC increasing the cap would add a little gain while increasing the resistor would cost you a little. BTW, your builds look great!
 

owlexifry

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I get 605 hz with a .056 cap and 4k7 resistor and 498hz with a .068uf cap.
on second check, yep, i get these same numbers (mixed up the 56n vs 68n).
gonna try out both values and see what i like best.

IIRC increasing the cap would add a little gain while increasing the resistor would cost you a little. BTW, your builds look great!
ahh yep, that makes sense, didn't think of that.
many thanks - appreciate the feedback and advice ✌️
 

ahiddentableau

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How do those tins hold up over time? I'm assuming that you've been using them for a while, maybe that's an unfair assumption. But I'm curious. I build enough that I'm interested in your approach as a cost cutting method.
 

owlexifry

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Let me know how the mod works for you.
swapped the 47 for a 56.
much better. not so thin/bright, chunky/beefy enough, sounds great.
68 would probably be too much i reckon.
I like the OD-1, it does what i want an OD to do. an impressive original circuit for its time.
but i still prefer SD-1. in comparison it’s punchier, more aggressive, it’s got that bite.

How do those tins hold up over time? I'm assuming that you've been using them for a while, maybe that's an unfair assumption. But I'm curious. I build enough that I'm interested in your approach as a cost cutting method.
well, the first altoids tin build i did was in february this year.
i’m not sure that’s long enough to really tell you anything useful.
these haven’t been ‘road tested’ in a live setting or anything like that. the most stress they’ve taken is when i A/B about 5-6 of them on a pedalboard when i’m trying out and comparing these drives (where normally most of these are ‘always on’ type fx, for me at least)

so far, haven’t had any issues yet.
(note: gotta be real careful drilling them out)
 
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cousinpaul

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Glad to hear you got the OD-1 sorted. I've never played through one but am a long time SD-1 user. It's my favorite of the Boss drives.
 

owlexifry

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Glad to hear you got the OD-1 sorted. I've never played through one but am a long time SD-1 user. It's my favorite of the Boss drives.
cheers 🤙🏻
yeah i dunno if you’re missing much, SD-1 is a winner.

been tempted to try out a BD-2 sometime… but the circuit for that is pretty big and i suspect im probably not gonna like it that much
 




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