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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.
Aah, yes that could work! thx
I just opened the hole a bit more to the floor of the cavity, so it should work fine now
For the pup wire from the neck cavity, I just decided to router a slot (it's under the pickguard). Once again progressive deepining and the fence is placed with the masking tape trick
I'm thinking I can probably do the roundover edges now. Anything I missed before I do the roundovers? Drilling of bridge holes I'll leave till the bridge arrives
Not quite sure what size roudover bit to use yet,so I'll start with the smallest I have - a 3/16" bit that'll give me this profile....
The next size I have is 1/4"
This is the Veritas Portlander which is a major part of the inspiration for this build. It's definitely got more square edges than a Strat, but not as little as a Tele I think.
Why not just use a couple clamps for holding the fence in place instead of masking tape and superglue?
My G clamps can't always reach or then I can't sit the body flat with the clamps in the way. Or maybe I'm just enjoying my "new found trick" hahaha
Started with the back face to see what it looks like with the 3/16" bit
On to the front face edge with the 3/16" roundover. I'm very pleased with the result and glad I didn't go bigger. Sanded it smooth and it it looks the part
Neck pocket edges cleaned up
I'm about to start with sanding sealer to fill all the grain voids. This Ash wood, although a hard wood, it is quite porous and the open grain does need filling.
In terms of weight, it is heavier than my MIA strat and Epi LP. the Stat and LP weighs 3.7kg. Currently the raw body and neck weighs in at 3.8kg (8.38 pounds).
Not quite an anchor, but definitely a heavier guitar which I don't think will bother me
Are you going to try and fill with just sanding sealer? If so it will take a lot of material to fill ash. I spray a coat of sealer then grain fill with tinted drywall putty, sand level then start my finish process.
The paintshop guy said it should be fine, but I'll take your advise further thx
I never double checked the neck piece on the body to see how it lines up wit the neck. I always knew my template was slightly larger than needed to stay on the save side, but somehow forgot about along the way
It turns out to be way too much...
Darn, I thought I'm done shaping, but it's back to router and sanding
Put up a small fence in the pocket to router flush, hand shaped to blend in the curve, and then a bit of roundover routing
Punched all the drill holes: neck pocket, 2 x strap button spots and Input jack
Number ONE build for me
As someone who's got three build going on, as many jigs and fixtures in my shop I would like to salute your dedication and focus. Great job
Thank you sir!
First layer of sanding sealer 50% thinned with thinners
waited an hour and then Just as I started with the second layer 100% sealant, the weather turned and the sky turned black. The sealant turned crumbly as I applied it!!!! I assume it is the humidity. I panicked and carried on with the 50% thinned solution which worked better. I'll let it dry overnight and check tomorrow
Here's some things I've learnt so far on this journey:
1) I really enjoy this build. It's very satisfying working with wood and I'm quite sure this will not be my last build
2) I'm very grateful to all of you and this forum for inspiration and advise. It would not be possible without you.(special mention to Mr. T Downs for his drawings)
3) I'm really glad that I made my own templates and didn't buy them. To me it really feels like I've started from scratch printing A4 paper and cutting out the shapes. And even though I used the standard drawings, my templates are not 100% accurate, it's hand shaped by me with subtle differences
4) On templates, really don't use the master templates, even if you're confident you won't nick it with the router. MAKE WORKING TEMPLATES
5) Learn to be okay with doing things over. There are many steps I had to redo so far, part of the learning curve. BUT I'm glad I did in order to get a great end result
6) I'm glad I used a good quality hard wood, It's so much easier working with it than a soft wood like SA Pine (which has been the only wood besides MDF, I've ever worked with)
7) Thinking about making my own neck still freaks me out
8) Safety First
Reclaim MDF, make working template for next time
The sanding sealer ended up not too bad once I lightly sanded it 600 grit. Decided to give it 1 or 2 more coats to see if I can fill all voids and also applied first 2 layers to the top.
Made a stand with 4 screws as pins fitting in the pup cavities so I can flip the body with wet paint (saw this on one of the build threads in TDPRI)
So while I wait for our South African Postal Service to deliver a bunch of parts from Ebay which I ordered early December(!!!), look what came across my way
I don't know wood types and what to look for really when looking for body wood, neck and fretboard woods.
What am I looking for for a good neck wood and fretboard wood?
The piece on the left is KIAAT (Southern Africa indigenous specie) and on the right Rhodesian Teak or commonly known as railway sleeper wood.
The Kiaat is 60mm thick and I'm thinking it could make a nice next body albeit a 3 piece body. Would it work for a neck???
Here's the specs:
The Rhodesian Teak is known to blunt tools in no time and many workshops won't even cut it for you - high in silica content. BUT it is hard ( Janka hardness is 2990 - close to Brazilian Rosewood of 3500), so I'm thinking to use it for fretboards. If I can use it, I'll be able to get in a number of boards from this piece
I was surprised how quickly I could cut it with a hand saw which gives me hope
Here's the specs:
Could it work for a fretboard?
okay don't bother about the Rhodesian Teak (which I'm now told it's not)
It has way too open grain and voids showing everywhere - not good for a smooth slippery fretboard
Nice wood though
With the Kiaat, I can make fingernail marks quite easily, so probably too soft for a neck, but maybe okay for body wood?